ganesh108 : I have Lemongrass seeds which are also very rare (hardly ever flower). Only viability is not known - so would send you plenty of them. If planting a few of them gives you success you can trade the rest. Some questions; will Lemongrass grow where you are living, your post is a few years old, so does the offer still stand. Also is it Curry leaf tree (Murraya koenigii) or Curry Plant (Helichysum Italicum) seeds that you are trading. I want both So it does not matter. The tree does not have a shortage of seeds so its Curry Plant yes ?

Does anyone have this available? We love this vegetable and I got some ripe fruits to get seeds. But reading some old GW posts, realized that the fruits from a plant grown from seeds would be bitter and it's better to grow from a cutting/ root of a plant that produces edible fruits. so, the quest! Please look at my list for a possible trade. Thank you!

Hi purilisa, Welcome to The Seed Exchange. Please see addressing newbie and newer member issues for instructions on how to get your Member Page email link set up so that you can easily be reached for trading. You may want to read this old thread too about germination, rooting cuttings, etc. MURRAYA koenigii (curry leaf plant/tree). Good luck! chemocurl...aka Sue

I got seed from an acquaintance in Hawaii. Contact growers in Hawaii and Florida - possibly some in CA as well - to see if they will ship you seed. There are restrictions on where/how seed can be shipped because of citrus disease - if you are in a citrus growing state, look for seed locally as M. koenigii is a citrus and is likely grown in any state where other citrus are grown. My seed arrived already cleaned of the fruit pulp, and in moist peat moss to keep it from drying out. Dried out seed is unlikely to grow, it is very fragile and short-lived. I planted my seed in 2" starter paks (2" diameter, not depth). These need to be kept warm and moist, but not wet. Use a seed mat if possible set at 81 to 82F - they like 80F but most seed mats come with controllers that shut off within 3 F of the target temp - so my seed mat was turning off at 77F. I never saw it shut off too late, but it often shut off too early. If you have a herp controller, those are MUCH more accurate and you can just set it at 80F. ALL of my seed eventually germinated. Germination was faster while bottom heat was applied. You should probably remove the plant from the bottom heat soon after it sprouts - so use smaller paks, like 4 cells, or even individual pots. I ended up cutting my starter paks up because they were full-flat paks, with something over 30 cells. Beyond that, I can't say how to best care for your seedlings. I'm still learning. I tried putting them in a gritty mix and a modified gritty mix - the modified gritty mix took longer to fail than the gritty, but it did eventually fail, despite all sorts of contortions (and with the help of a local soil scientist) trying to correct for pH and trying to find a way to water the gritty that didn't leave dry streaks through the medium. The only plants that did really well were those planted in the usual peat blends. Between the watering problems (I had to float my gritty pots to get them thoroughly watered, and they dried out FAR too fast in my arid environment) and pH induced fertility problems - foliar feeding with Foliage Pro did NOT counteract these issues - gritty and gritty-ish were both ultimately unsuitable for these plants. They were particularly troubled by iron deficiency problems, despite regular application (for half the plants) of iron. This made very little difference because it just runs out of the gritty mix. Foliar feeding of iron solution also did not make a noticeable difference. So I suggest sticking to a good bagged potting mix, or a good peat blend once your seedlings have sprouted. A palm blend and a palm or citrus fertilizer is probably best. Watch for iron deficiency - M. koenigii is a heavier than usual user of iron.