You want a chemical or an organic solution? For the PM - keep in mind it is primarily an aesthetic issue. You can control it but you can't cure it so you can dispose of the plants and replant and hope the weather improves or you can try to salvage these. Your choice. Chemical - Bayer 3 in 1 fungicide and insect spray. Controls the PM and kills the aphids. When the aphids are controlled the ants move on. Organic - for the PM 1 tsp baking soda in 1 qt of water. Spray stems and tops of leaves. Changes pH of leaf surface and the PM dies back. For the aphids 1 T liquid dish soap in 1 gallon of water, shake well and pour into sprayer. Lightly mist the aphids but do not drench the plants and do not apply in direct sun (if you ever see any). OR rather than making things even wetter and worse you can sit back, watch, wait and learn until things dry out and then see what you have left to work with. That is what most of us have to do during bad weather years. We remind ourselves that there is always next year. And surprisingly much more survives than we'd expect. We learn in the process that rather than jumping the gun with sprays and such that most plants can tolerate some aphids without going belly up and the buggars life cycle is limited anyway and when they go away so do the ants. We learn that powdery mildew looks like &^$*& but we still get fruit from the plants. Maybe not as much but an ok amount. And we learn patience and realistic expectations, the most important lesson of all. Part of gardening is accepting that you can't save everything and that often the harder you try the worse you make the situation. Some years, like when the weather is gifting you with a record setting poor spring season and storms rarely seen you just do the best you can and call it lessons well learned. Dave

If you pasteurize it correctly then it will kill all the unwanted stuff and leave you with healthy soil. ' Using pasteurized soil is another way gardeners avoid diseases. Fill a pan or metal tray with a 4 inch, or less, layer of moist soil. Bury a one and a half inch diameter potato in the center of the soil, then cover the pan with aluminum foil, and seal the edges. Punch a small hole in the center of the aluminum foil and insert the bulb end of a candy thermometer. Place the pan in an oven at 180 to 200 degrees. After the thermometer reads 180 degrees, leave the soil in the oven 30 minutes then remove and allow it to cool. The potato will be cooked if the soil is properly pasteurized. Pasteurizing the soil is useless if dirty containers are used. Pasteurizing soil in the oven can create an odor some people find offensive. Clean clay pots can be sterilized by baking while the soil is heated. Pots can be sterilized by soaking them in a solution of one part chlorine bleach and nine parts water. Rinse, and allow the pots to dry thoroughly before filling them with soil. ' Here is a link that might be useful: http://www.cyber-north.com/gardening/seed.html

If the night temps have been low for two weeks or so then the freezing temp will not really harm the plant. An alternative is to place aluminum foil over the pot (to hold in the soil) and give the plant a shower to the underside and top side of the plant. The aphids will be washed off just like you would do to outdoor plants

Not very many common aphid predators will bother lupine aphids.....I believe a couple of the parasitic wasps might be interested but that will not be a very effective control :-) Lupine aphids are a distinct species that only infests lupines. They will not migrate to other plants. Most sources recommend the strong jet of water to dislodge them....they are clumsy and typically can't manage to crawl back onto the plant. And the jet of water often kills them as well. Insecticidal soap and neem oil can be effective but you need to be very cautious when spraying as the aphids are usually present when the lupines are in bloom and you want to avoid any sprays when pollinators are present. Lupine aphid eggs overwinter on any remaining foiiage, so it is suggested you cut the plants back to the ground at fall clean up to prevent reinfestation in spring.