That can vary depending on many factors like the type of rootstock, soil type, time of year, and amount of TLC you can give it after transplant, etc. But, here is a generic guideline that will give you a place to start: For trunk diameter below 1/2", multiply the diameter by 20 to get approximate rootball diameter. For trunk diameter between 1/2" and 1", multiply the diameter by 18 to get approximate rootball diameter. For trunk diameter between 1" and 1-1/2", multiply the diameter by 16 to get approximate rootball diameter. For trunk diameter between 1-1/2" and 2-1/2", multiply the diameter by 14 to get approximate rootball diameter. For trunk diameter between 2-1/2" and 4", multiply the diameter by 12 to get approximate rootball diameter. Here are guidelines for rootball depth: For a rootball with a diameter of 1', depth should be approximately 8". For a rootball with a diameter of 2', depth should be approximately 1'. For a rootball with a diameter of 3', depth should be approximately 15". For a rootball with a diameter of 4', depth should be approximately 18". Here is a link that might be useful: Generic Rootball Size Guide

I'm not sure that fruitnut answered your question. Semi-dwarf apples are about the size of a peach tree. Crowding means having the branches of adjacent trees grow into each other, or not having room to get between the trees to mow and spray and set up a ladder. If you have the room and only plan to have a few trees, I'd space them even wider than 15'. If you want many trees in limited space, you can grow them closer together in the row, but leave at least 15' between rows. 20'(or more) is better if you want to drive between the rows after the trees are mature.

I've ordered from Bay Laurel on-line several times. They have a very informative web site, with lots of great information about their stock. I found it especially enlightening for the beginning fruit tree buyer. I'm waiting for a delivery in January for an Eva' Pride on Nemaguard root stock, which has been mentioned as doing well on the Fruit Forum by folks in warm weather zones, being close to Elberta in taste. This was what I was hoping for. I planted a dwarf - Bonanza - I think, 2 years ago. It is only about 4 ft. tall - and am hoping to keep it close to 5 or so, in it's present location. It gave quite a hefty number of nice peaches - but a bit less tangy than I had hoped for. Still it is young yet, and perhaps hasn't reached its stride, but seems to be happy here. It never ceases to amaze me - with the variety that they manage to produce - fruit that originally meant to grow in colder climates and now can thrive in small places and warmer weather. Bejay

While citrus is young count the leave and divide it on 20. that is how many fruits you may leave on them to bear. On adult trees 10 leave is enough for photosintesing for one fruit. The better plant is doing with foliage - more fruits you will collect. So pay attention on a mineral fertilising of your trees and they will pay you back with the fruits!! That lemon of mine lost all leave in december and fruits never turn yellow - I had to collect them in april, so it could grow new leaves. This Meyer got 7 lemons This wild citrus is 5 years old, does not grow at all, but give me 2 fruits every year!! And it is very rare that you will collect more fruits than volume of your pot every year