Wood Ashes as Fertilizer

16 years ago

I've burned maybe eight cords of Oak, some apple and hard maple to heat the house this winter.(A full fuel oil tank costs $2000) Any way, I've dumped the ashes(like we always did) in the vegetable garden and lightly in the flower beds. I never knew what elements are in ashes that benefit plants. I looked it up. All the minerals from the tree remains in the ash, except nitrogen and sulphur. I have not yet put wood ashes around my fruit trees. Anyone have thoughts about it.

Here is a link that might be useful: Wood Ashes as Fertilizer

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Comments (6)

alan haigh
16 years ago
What are you doing? "Dumping" ashes in the vegie garden sounds reckless unless you are calibrating the influence of the alkilinity of the ashes. Long Island soils don't tend to be acid because of the ocean influence so I suggest you proceed with caution. Ashes are almost as alkaline as pure limestone and a lot more water soluable.

While I haven't found wood ashes to be as dangerous as Jellyman suggested in a recent contribution- I've never killed a plant with it as I have done more than once with say urea. This in spite of the fact that I use it without weighing it before application. I always know the approximate pH of the soil where I apply it however. I consider pH adjustment a continuing project where exact precision is unnecessary.
gonebananas_gw
16 years ago
Wood ashes, after reacting with water and atmospheric or soil carbon dioxide gas, are mainly calcium carbonate (just like limestone) and potassium carbonate, a potassium fertilizer. The pH effect is the only potentially problemsome one. Don't use any more than you would wisely use limestone and you're fine. I use them lightly in the garden or much more heavily in the compost pile.
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Wood Ash in the Garden. By Rosie Lerner,Extension Consumer Horticulturist "The chilly winds of winter will likely keep many a wood-burning stove glowing, leaving stove owners with the ashes to dispose of. Many gardening books advise throwing these ashes in the garden. But what affect do these ashes have on the garden?Wood ash does have fertilizer value, the amount varying somewhat with the species of wood being used. Generally, wood ash contains less than 10%potash, 1% phosphate and trace amounts of micro nutrients such as iron,manganese, boron, copper and zinc. Trace amounts of heavy metals such as lead, cadmium, nickel and chromium also may be present. Wood ashes do not contain nitrogen.The largest component of wood ash (about 25%) is calcium carbonate, a common liming material which increases soil alkalinity. Wood ash has a very fine particle size which causes it to react rapidly and completely in the soil.So although small amounts of nutrients are applied with wood ash, the main effect is that of a liming agent.Increasing the alkalinity of the soil does affect plant nutrition. Nutrients are most readily available to plants when the soil is slightly acidic. As soil alkalinity increases and the pH rises above 7.0, nutrients such as phosphorus,iron, boron, manganese, copper, zinc and potassium become chemically tied to the soil and less available for plant use.Applying small amounts of wood ash to most soils will not adversely affect your garden crops and the ash does help replenish some nutrients. But because wood ash increases soil pH, adding large amounts can do more harm than good. Keep in mind that wood ash which has been exposed to the weather, particularly rainfall, has lost a lot of its potency including nutrients.Specific recommendations for the use of wood ash in the garden are difficult to make because soil composition and reaction varies from garden to garden. Distinctly acidic soils (pH less that 5.5) will likely be improved by wood ash addition. Soils that are slightly acidic (pH 6.0 to 6.5) should not be harmed by the application of 20 pounds per 100 square feet, annually.However, if your soil is neutral or alkaline (pH greater than 7.0), find another way to dispose of the wood ash. If you donÂt know the acidity or alkalinity of your soil, have it tested for pH.Crop tolerance to alkaline soil also should be considered. Some plants such as asparagus and junipers are more tolerant of slightly alkaline conditions than "acid-loving" plants such as potatoes, rhododendrons, and blueberries.Wood ash should never be used on such acid-loving plants" Too much ash can increase pH or accumulate high levels of salts that can be harmful to some plants, so use ashes carefully. Wood ash has a NPK of 0-1-3
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thanks. The ash was bone dry and it was applied after a rain so the ground was damp. A few hours later it rained again. I hope Im getting the maximum benefit. I read the artcile but Im still wondering if it was dry or damp long enough. As I said, it rained again and the ash was washed into the soil really good .
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Celsius Campbell was a famous Hockey Forward for the Calgary Flames, back in the 20's. I'm pretty sure thats what my 5th grade science teacher said. bpgreen, I throw wood ash all around the lawn for over 10 years, the previous owner did the same for 20 years, with no detrimental effect that I've been able to see. It greens up earlier, but that may be more a function of a bit higher temperature or retained moisture, I have no idea why. These spots lose their advantage pretty quickly. When it's too dry in the winter to risk throwing ash with live cinders on the dry lawn, we dump it in a pit thats 4-5 feet from an oak tree. The tree seems to love it, the grass around the pit is lush, with who knows how much ash thrown over the years. I have wheat grass out on the pond banks, the lawn started as a mix of KBG with other varieties, now the wheat grasses are making inroads. To be sure, I haven't thrown ash specifically on the native grass pond bank. The older folk around, who grew up in the depression, save their ash to put on their vegetable gardens. Once again, there are two schools of ash users. Those who will not and have not used ash, and those who do. :-) I should also mention that in this alkaline soil environment, it is a real challenge to grow anything if the sub-soil has been disturbed for putting in a gas line, water line, or buried electrical. The only thing that helps there is steady amounts of organic matter, year after year.
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Pulled the Golden shallots that you sent late last fall Martin. I couldn't wait and sliced 1 up to try right out of the garden,My Golden had a totally different taste than my larger red type. The Golden had an oniony flavor with just a late bit of heat that tickled the underside of the cheek.My red type has fully the onion/garlic flavor mix. Looks like I'll be waiting for them to cure and store a few three months before I try another to see if taste developes over time.LOL probably and I should have waited,cooking the 3/4 bulb that was left.Can't wait to see how the taste comes out in the extra chicken thats cooking away in a roaster out on and in the covered grill. I got my dozen,4large,5medium and 3 just a bit smaller.Not any real small ones that I'll have to plant back,the smallest is about double the size of a standard radish(actually 2&1/2inches)and all are quite round. Is Golden always mostly round?My reds are more on the teardrop or whatever kinda shape. I did find a bonus 2 Golden plants out in the new front garlic row (off to the side) that I barely remember sticking there(just came back to me while I was wracking my brain thinking about the cold wet day I put them in.Hit 88(realfeel 95/96)with all the high 80+% humidity this afternoon.So I have 5 more bulbs than I thought. Bill
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eskota
16 years ago
Here's a link you might find useful-

http://web.ukonline.co.uk/fred.moor/soil/ph/p010601.htm

I srinkle my wood ashes around plants that like higher pH, topdress the asparagus bed with it. Daffodils like wood ashes. I doubt that any fruits, except blueberries, would be harmed by light applications out to the dripline.

BTW, I bag all of my woodstove ashes (when they're cold of course!) and store them in a dry shed.
theaceofspades
Original Author
16 years ago
Good to know, having the Ph in the appropriate range for the plant will increase productivity. Upstate NY the forest soils tend to be acid. Two weeks ago when it was warmer, we drove an ATV with trailer to the stables and dug to the bottom to get 'well seasoned' manure. We mulch trees and gardens using horse manure. With the soil being 'acid' and the manure probably acid, the wood ashes would bring the Ph up toward the desired 6.75 Ph for pears, plums and apples. I will be spreading more wood ashes on my asparagus patch at home in L.I. The asparagus love higher Ph. Soon they will be popping up. Ymm. I read where the available soil nutrients decreases with lower Ph. Anyone have experience with this?
eskota
16 years ago
"I read where the available soil nutrients decreases with lower Ph. Anyone have experience with this?"

I gardened in very alkaline soil in West Texas (pH over 7.5) and only a short list of plants could survive it. The well water would burn the leaves even on the plants that did OK with the soil, so you couldn't spray when you watered.

Watermelons, cantaloupe, okra, black-eyed peas, pecans, and most fruit trees did fine. Vitex, roses, rosemary, and iris (and cactus, yucca, and mesquite trees) don't mind it.
marlingardener
16 years ago
To determine the alkalinity or acidity of your soil, you can do a quick and simple test with a kit available at almost any good nursery or Lowe's or Home Depot. The kits are not expensive, and very little time is involved. That way you can tell if a lot of wood ash or a little is needed. We put all our ashes in the compost heap because our soil here is just hairline alkaline, and we don't want to upset the balance.

Wood Ashes as Fertilizer

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alan haigh

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Wood Ashes as Fertilizer

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alan haigh

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