Agree with Ruthie's diagnosis. For future reference you can add your pics to your existing thread. Just post a follow-up. ;) Dave

Here's the main problem: I have other seeds that have not germinated yet in the same trays You are right that is your primary problem and you have learned a valuable lesson about how to plant next year. Never mix different seeds or even different varieties of the same seed in the same pack/row/container. You have to be able to separate and treat each individually. You'll have to cut the cell packs into individual cells if necessary - commonly done - or prick out and transplant into other posts the ones that have germinated. And don't overwater the seeds that haven't germinated either. Seeds don't have to be wet to germinate. And if some seeds of the same variety that have already germinated don't pop up within a few days then they aren't going to. You seldom get more than 80-85% germination even with ideal conditions - and your aren't ideal. 6 cells wide and my cherry tomatoes take up about 2 rows and 2 cells) Not sure why you have rows in cells? Just not seeing that picture. How many cherry tomatoes are you growing? You can germinate 5-6 plants in a 1" square cell, 10-12 in a 2" easily. We germinate 40-50 plants of each variety in 4" cells routinely. Then transplant them to individual cells when the first true leaves pop up. I put a heater on in the room that the seedlings are in and the temp is up above room temp (in the 80's). Supposedly the rate of mold growth significantly decreases at this temperature. Not sure what the source of your info is for that. Warming up the air temperature only increases the amount of fungus growth. It doesn't reduce it. Heat is used for germination only, not growing once germinated. And even then it is soil heat that is needed, not air heat. In the greenhouse as soon as the plants break the soil surface they are immediately removed from any heat source and moved to an area where the temp is maintained at a constant 60-65 degrees max. That and minimal watering is what keeps any molds or fungi from developing. Young seedlings will tolerate too little water FAR better than they will tolerate too much water. Dave

Yep I did prune as much as i can, as for the whole GMO thing I dont even understand it, I just want to use a pesticide/fungicide that not going to have me keel over if i eat my own tomatoes lol. As for why I want a "3 in 1" spray is because I am a newcomer to gardening. Much like my mature plant paid the price when I just jumped into using miracle grow. I see some occasional bite holes, and the powery mildew is indeed on my two youngest plants. But Im trying keeping it simple as possible. Thats why i went with the tomato spikes. Helped the Nitrogen burnt plant recover and flourish. Meanwhile keeps me error free. Also Im in the midwest,Nebraska to be exact. we've had some unseasonably friendly weather. Its late july and were are hitting 70s tops. Usually in the 90s. Sparse rain, but here in the midwest anythign we get...is usually too much lol.

Readily identifiable on the dracaena. I'm with Jean. Al