Cebury:

Probably because they rarely die a natural death. With a smaller trunk it takes much less time for shothole borers or other tunneling insects to make it all the way around, girdling the tree. Commercial dwarfing orchards for apples count on tree replacement in 12 years; you could expect at least 20, but they would decline in vigor.

But the main question is, are the varities any good? You're better off planting a good-tasting variety that you need to do a little summer pruning than a cute tiny mini-dwarf tree that bears icky fruit.

Applenut

Thanks for the reply Applenut. That helps... would you happen to know a source for the info?

Are there really commercial orchards of miniature 3-5 foot tall fruit trees? I figured that was a myth or perhaps it was tried when initially released but is now a novelty.

But the main question is, are the varieties any good?
I almost spit out my cereal when I saw this. Are you implying the Dave Wilson labels of "excellent flavor" and "tasty" are NOT correct? ;-) LOL

I have no idea if they taste good as we can't exactly get samples anywhere. Our favorite flavored varieties are planted in-ground, so we're good there. These are more "pet trees" and my fingers are crossed at least one or two will taste good. If not, oh well they offer great decorative value and aren't THAT much more work along with my other trees.

But boy, the root work on them is no easier than a full sized tree on Lovell & Nema. Whoever said Miniatures don't require root pruning was dead wrong and beginners are in for a surprise. ALL containerized fruit trees I've taken a risk on that are >1 year old (been sitting at the nursery over a season in #5 pots), INCLUDING Mini's, GM61/1 and PUMI rootstocks, have extremely large girdled roots that required serious rootwork before potting. I was forced to remove so much of the root biomass, like 40%, () I still wonder if it was worth it vs. a young one. But who knows, the overall root mass is still significantly more than a fresh one at potting.

I've enjoyed taking risks and the learning that goes along -- but I would never have done any of it without the help of folks online. Thanks again!

The miniature trees I was referencing are apples; commercial growers plant small trees 3' apart and then train them on a trellis to induce early bearing. They bear heavily which helps keep them small, and they are picked without a ladder. Bud. 9 is common rootstocks in America but in Europe M27 (itty bitty) is also used.

DWN is a good source for the miniature trees; I bought a mini peach and nectarine at Home Depot years back and both were bland.

cebury: That's why most here go the bare root route. They establish easier than potted. Now if you clean the roots up nice then you are about the same as bare root. I do pot some of my trees up a year ahead of in ground. Usually 3-4 in a 15 gal pot. This allows me to train them a year and I can usually get fruit the year of planting on many stone fruit. I plant them by cutting the rootball into equal parts for each tree. The roots come bursting out of the cut surfaces of the rootball. I may trim a few roots off the outside edge that was next to the side of the pot.

Applenut: shothole borers or other tunneling insects to make it all the way around, girdling the tree.

Would using the Gritty mix for a container genetic dwarf fruit help prevent cases like borers? From what little I've read, some overwinter or lay eggs in the soil and for PTB during a specific larval stage they leave the trunk and enter the soil to cocoon. I haven't seen even one critter in my gritty mix soil vs. regular potting soil which can have lots when left on the ground even overnight. They just don't like the top layer of the diatamaceous earth/fired clay, I assume due to it's drying affect (DE prevents worms,snails/slugs, rt?).

I also paint the tree trunks, supposedly helps some with PTB but I don't know how much.

Was the peach tree you bought and tasted bland a Bonfire Patio Peach? It seems that is the most popular sold at the box stores (not in my area) which has the poorest quality fruit.

Fruitnut I don't mind doing good rootwork on the fruit trees. I clean 'em up nicely and I can compare what new mini's roots look like. My year 2 prunes go quickly if their planted in the gritty mix. But all my trees are young, so I don't have a lot of experience yet. It just surprised me with such a small canopy on these genetic dwarfs, the roots on the peach/nectarines are on Lovell or Nema -- full-sized and numerous roots on itty bitty trees.

So your practice is to have a shared rootball while in the container, but when planting you chop it 3-ways and then go in-ground?