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The Seed Exchange

WTT for heat tolerant tomato varieties!

14 years ago

.I am looking to trade for heat tolerant varieties that I can grow in a Florida Summer. Homestead, Arkansas Traveler to name a couple. If you have any more I would be willing to trade some nice varieties I will list below.

Carbon ( Deep Purple flesh with complex taste)

Prince (I had very good luck with this one, great production and flavor)

Ponderosa Pink (very good tasting, one of my favorites)

Amana Orange

Kellogg's Breakfast

Isis Candy (amazing cherry tomato)

Black Cherry

Sprite (grape tomato)

Cherokee Purple

Cherokee Green (I didn't know green had such good flavor)

Fuzzy Peach

Missouri Pink Love Apple

Rutgers

Blondkopfchen

Green Zebra

Black Zebra

Let me know if you have any to trade!

TIA

Chris

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Comments (4)

franked1
14 years ago
Chris:I have 2 cultivars Homestead. PI 270232 96G1-home seed & PI 325921 95G1 Homestead Tuinbou-USDA seed-5 seed limit.What do you have besides tomatoes to trade? I,m northern veggie grower--Fez920 Wi Z5 Frank 25 seed on the 270 Home seed
vipvenom
Original Author
14 years ago
I have some herbs, lettuce and pepper seeds to trade.

For Herbs I have basil, cilantro, and a culantro.

Lettuce I have romaine, lolla rose, black seeded simpson, & simpson elite.

Peppers I have serrano, long slim cayenne, jalapeno, , tabasco, purple jalepeno, bolivian rainbow, and aji dulce. The last three I only have a small amount of seeds due to first season planting.

LMK if you have any interest in the above.

Chris
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anybody tried these heat-tolerant tomatoes?
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Comments (11)
I've grown Sunleaper and Kewalo, neither did well. But that's probably because they were grown in the garden. Nematodes stressed them out earlier than many other varieties, then whiteflies, mealybugs, stinkbugs et al took advantage. My one success story came from a Burbank, in a pot, that produced wonderfully all winter and spring, in full sun. Late April it had some mishap with sand cranes breaking branches. I moved it to a spot that got great morning sun til 10 or 11 and shade the rest of the day. It grew back lushly and set lots of fruit til late August when whiteflies got the upper hand. Perhaps the success was the placement in AM sun, or was it the variety? Possibly because it was always free of RKN? Don't know. It might work with other smaller varieties like Roma, that can be kept in pots and moved to the right location as the season changes. Another that kept on going through the summer and actually started back in full force as the weather cooled was Red Robin, tiny plants with larger and sweeter than average cherries. Very easy to move! I believe high humidity plays more of a role in fruit set than high heat. Pollen gets to heavy and wet to flow freely to do its job in our summers. Maybe continuous hand pollinating would help. I brush the flowers all the time. Q-tips might help more during summer. Then again, you could grow some Everglades or Matt's or even Sungold through the summer. These guys don't know when to quit! Wish you best of luck! Keep us informed. Treefrog
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Comments (6)
Something maybe that I could plant in September and have fruit before the frost? Wondering if I plant a seedling now, or if I should wait till it cools off a bit. Hopefully someone from AZ will see this thread and chime in, but folks in TX who live in zones 8-9 generally plant out for fall crop anywhere from late July to Sept 1. I personally prefer a fall crop planting date of Aug 1-15, and my rationale for that date as is follows. This gives the plants a month to a month and a half to get big enough to establish and start blooming. My hope/goal (some yrs are better than others) is that by mid-Sept, temps will break just enough to get some fruitset. I've found through trial and error that putting the plants in earlier doesn't do much good. They just sit there, struggle in the heat, and don't do much. I don't see much point in that. In a 9b, I suspect you'll have more leeway beyond my general Aug 1-7 suggestion, and might want to go a little later. Since you indicate you usually only get frosts in Jan (I get frosts here in Dec, sometimes even the last wk of Nov), a fall planting date in September might make more sense for you. Another way to look at it is your avg/estimated first frost date. A general recommendation for fall crop is "do not plant later than 100-110 days or so before first frost date" or words to that effect. Also, it never hurts to throw a few in containers for fall crop, as this gives you the ability to easily move plants around and protect at night later on when it becomes cool. Another suggestion: do a google search and see if you can find what (if anything) your county extension service recommends for fall planting dates. Hope this gives you some ideas.
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Comments (3)
There is another discussion just down the page a bit titled "What varieties will continue to produce through hot weather?" that will give you the names of a few varieties - most have "Sun" in their name. But assuming your plants bloomed but didn't set fruit and that you understand about the condition called Blossom Drop and what causes it then you know that no variety will "set fruit reliably in hot temperatures" above 95, especially with high humidity. And controlling humidity in the greenhouse can be as difficult as controlling the heat. I assume you are using a shade cloth on your greenhouse during the hottest days? Have a misting system? Have a way to increase the air exchange rate substantially? Based on my experiences with my greenhouse it is changes in the greenhouse than need to be made rather than the variety for really successful fruit set. Good luck. Dave Here is a link that might be useful: Blossom Drop FAQ
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Comments (5)
Greg 2011 will be my first year growing tomatoes in Arizona. I don't have any first hand knowledge yet but I have put in hundreds of hours of study preparing for 2011. My understanding is that soil depth and preparation, mulch, watering and fertilizer regimen are very important. Other than cherry varieties they can't take our full sun and require 40-50% shade from the afternoon sun. This year I am growing. Sungold Cherry tomato Black Cherry tomato Cherokee Purple I'm also growing tomatillos which can thrive in full Arizona sun. Here are a few links you may find useful. Tomato Watering System. Pay attention to how deep he plants them. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UUbfpkNEslw Laurel's Tomato Growing Tips. Lots of good tips here. http://www.heirloomtomatoplants.com/Growing%20Tips%20and%20Garden%20Products.htm
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carroteggs
14 years ago
I'm in Florida too! and there's too much Rain right now!! :( Anyways, I have:
Basil
Hales Best melon-big heirloom type (5-6lbs)-From a trade

I also have some banana pepper seeds and a Charantais melon, which is a small french muskmelon. Not sure if it is an heirloom or not. I am growing a type of Charantais now and it has fruit all over the place! It is a good climber, though it has needed a little help to get started.

Sorry I don't have any tomatoes seeds to offer.I only have a small amount of them (5 seeds). If you are still looking for tomatoes later on, I'll let you know if I have any left of: Pruden's purple and Cherokee purple. If you don't mind a couple of seeds of each let me know and I'll send you some.
carroteggs
14 years ago
Whoops, thought you were looking for those seeds. If you are interested in my melons, let me know! I would love to trade for one of your tomatoes, maybe the Ponderosa Pink or the Missouri Pink Love Apple. I have also been thinking about ordering some Marconi pepper seeds. Let me know if you are interested and I'll let you know when I get them in.

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