Remember that I use the gritty mix and not the 5:1:1 mix for my houseplants. Also, I water almost everything on a 3 day rotation because I CAN, not necessarily because I have to. I'll explain. I have a few plants in containers so small they require watering every other day. Many of my plants can go much longer than 3 days between waterings, but to make things easier on me and to ensure nothing slips through the cracks, I water the rest on a 3 day rotation, whether the plants need it or not. THAT, is one of the benefits of using the gritty mix - it's so forgiving that you would really have to work at it to over-water. It's open poor structure due to large particle size ensures no, or VERY little, perched water ..... which is WHY it's so hard to over-water. FYI - in order to maximize water retention w/o a significant PWT, and in a perfect world, you would want porous and durable particles concentrated in the size range from slightly smaller than 1/8" to slightly larger than 1/4" or up to 3/8", with a small fraction of small particles to increase water retention additionally w/o adding any significant amount of perched water. A large disparity in particle size works against you. I compromise in this area all the time, using bark with the fines included and many chunky pieces larger than 3/8, but I keep a supply of bark that closest fits the profile I prefer on hand, and I'm always looking for 'the right stuff' when my supply starts to get low. I've found several brands and locations I can usually depend on to provide what I prefer, so keep your eyes peeled. I mentioned that because I think if you'd been lucky enough to find a bark product not so chunky, that there wouldn't be as much of an issue with toppling. Many of my plants are temporarily and mechanically secured to the pot by various methods. One reason is to prevent toppling because all of my plants are repotted in the summer when they're outdoors and in the wind. The other reason is plants secured against movement in relation to the pot establish anchorage in a fraction of the time required by unsecured plants. Bumping or jostling them, even turning them to water, can break large numbers of hair roots the plant needs for anchorage as well as taking up water and nutrients. In the end, I'd much rather see people approach the whole soil thing in a leisurely way instead of feeling pressured because of poor plants or new found information. There is no question in my mind that the more open soils offer plants MUCH greater opportunity to grow to their potential, but like you, we have to decide if they fit into our view of what's expected in terms of convenience. Keep fussing with your soils. I think you understand the concept, which is the important thing; if not, you're getting there fast, and it will always be a point of reference to help you diagnose any future problems you relate to your soils. I'll be glad to help whenever I can and as needed. Al

http://www.humeseeds.com/comp1.htm It grows especially well with onions, carrots, radishes, and strawberries. Can be planted with cucumbers. I would imagine to start them off in a pot first at the same time. It doesn't really matter when or how. Just wait till the lettuce is about 3 inches or more.

I have plenty of space for more cold frames outsideand I can start up to 2520 plugs at once if I use 72plug trays in my basement. Basil is easy to start so I might start some more a week after the first planting. Starting 1 tray of cuttings (rosemarry) takes me about 20 minutes or so, wheras planting seed is considerably faster. I am debating on the wave petunia idea...or perhaps something different like burning bush (kochia), perhaps chamomile (for those tea drinkers). I do normally grow veggies I have an ok sized garden I suppose...about 1000ft2 in total (8 plots in total, martha stewart style, the wife is a big fan of everything martha), with a 400ft2 strawberry patch planned for this spring. I was tempted to try converting my 2 largest plots into snap or snow peas and pole beans...Add chicken wire trelleses(wood frames), to maximize my yield. I just dont know what kind of yields I would get and whether it would be worth giving up my corn/onions patchs for...I could make it work I suppose.... I am planning on giving out recipe booklets for the herbs,whip those up on the ol laser printer.. Now here is the an idea that has been dancing around my head....since the community center is only 2 doors down would it be worth it to try and approach the municipality to use thier parking lot. If I could get a few more like minded individuals...ie some crafty type people and a few bakers I could probably get a bit more traffic...and then only have to sell on saturday..no farmers market here so there could be interest especially with all the larger new houses being build on either side of my comunitity. It just sounds like it would be a helleva lot of work to get running...and could flop easily if people dont show up with thier wares...just rambling now....sick at home with the flu.....

That is one ugly monster! :) Carolyn has posted her favorites of each type/class here many times so you may want to browse through her posts like this one on best Heirlooms if she can't get back to you soon. She also points out that taste is a very personal thing and I agree. What one of us loves may be very bland to you and vice versa. Not to mention the effect that growing conditions has on flavor. Meanwhile, check out the discussion linked below. It has tons of suggestions in it. Dave PS: and don't forget Brandywine and Cherokee Purple as everyone loves both of those. Here is a link that might be useful: Best tasting tomato discussion