Best to scatter in the flower beds since a recent report states there is muy medications surfacing in our drinking water. Here is a link that might be useful: Propagating Perennials

Thanks for replying, kimmsr. This all seems more and more like a no-win situation this year. And yet someone on GardenWeb said that she produced one little bucket of weeds per summer out of a 3,550 or so square foot flower garden. Maybe she used four to six inches of mulch, I don't know, but I thought it was two or three. Also, I went on a garden tour recently, and four people had flower gardens about the size of mine, and they seemed to be using about one inch of Soil Pep. (Either they told me that's how much they used, or I dug a little back with my fingers to find out.) These gardens were being maintained by one person, and they were from 13 to 20 years old (the gardens, that is; the people were much older!). Possibly the explanation for this is that over the years they had depleted the seeds in the soil bank by sprouting and then killing them, obviously without letting any of them form more seeds. The real Catch-22 for me is that I actually want seeds to sprout in my mulch, but only my flower seeds, not the weed seeds. With an extremely thick, rough-textured mulch (say, six inches of arborist's wood chips), how on earth does anyone manage to have self-seeding flowers, or clumping shrubs and grasses, or spreading ground covers, or bulbs? How does anyone direct-sow seeds? It almost seems that you'd need to cover the native soil with thin layers of weed-free soil/compost/fine mulch repeatedly, and continually hand-weed, to get this to work. If the mulch, which is being used to cover the weed-seed-filled soil, accumulates weed seeds itself, it would make sense to me to add more mulch to cover the first mulch, maybe twice a year. So if I put down too much mulch at first, I wouldn't be able to add more until some of the first had decomposed (and then too many weed seeds would accumulate in it). There must be an optimal amount of mulch to add per year, after taking into account how much of it decomposes each year. This should lead to the level of mulch slowly increasing every year. I need to figure out what that amount should be when I'm using Soil Pep (or small bark chips on the paths and around trees). On the other hand, at the very beginning I need to add enough to somewhat effectively suppress weeds, not so little that it merely encourages them. Then there's the price. All total, including the vegetable garden, I actually have 5,715 square feet to cover with either mulch (Soil Pep in my case: 4,525 square feet) or wood chips (for paths and around trees: 1,190 square feet). They're both $4.49 for a two-cubic-foot bag. (I'm actually leaving out the cost of compost, sphagnum moss, rock phosphate, greensand, and elemental sulfur, because I consider those as more conditioners or fertilizers than mulches and they have very little bulk. But they still cost a lot of money.) At one inch I'd need 189 bags of mulch and 50 bags of chips, for a total of $1,073. At two inches I'd need 377 bags of mulch and 99 bags of chips, for a total of $2,137. And so on: three inches would cost $3,210, and four inches would cost $4,279. Five or six inches is out of the question for physical reasons. The beds and paths aren't raised, contained, edged, or separated, so the material would just spill over at the edges. I have many flowers, including tall ones like hollyhocks and delphiniums, that only get five or six inches tall the first and even second year. (Weird, I know.) I can't completely bury my flowers; that would defeat the whole purpose. I guess two to three inches per year is all I can handle, both money-wise and time-wise. Our car can hold 12 bags, so each inch takes 20 trips. It takes a lot of time just to buy, load, haul around, and distribute all of that material. I guess what I want to know is: If I add one inch of Soil Pep twice a year, and less than that decomposes each year, so that eventually I have an ongoing level of three inches on average, will that make much difference in the amount of time I have to spend weeding? Should I leave my dead lupine vegetation lying around to add to the mulch and not worry about the powdery mildew?

In our area flushing medication is HIGHLY discouraged. Water quality is affected by Rx's, antibiotics and estrogens have been found in drinking water. I personally wouldn't put them in the trash either, I'd be concerned about seepage into groundwater in landfills. So, what do you do? My pharmacy sells little pre-paid vinyl mailers for a few dollars and you can put all your medications in them and send them to a disposal company. I'm too cheap to do that in my town it's not necessary. Our police department has a big pill disposal box in the lobby, it looks like a mail box, but it's for pills and Rx things. You can drop things in there anytime at all. It's free and very user-friendly. In my town they ask you to rip all the labels off your medications so there is nothing to identify you as the owner. I usually take all my pills etc and pour them into a plastic baggie and dump them in. The pill bottles are actually recyclable, so they go in with my recyclables. I think that pharmacies also take back empty pill bottles, but I've never done this. I would check with your waste disposal company's customer service department and also, call your town and find out if they have special disposal opportunities. So many people are still flushing meds! In most places water treatment plants just can't process eliminate meds from the water. It doesn't just affect human health, it's also affecting wildlife.

When my toothpaste tube is partly empty, I'll take a toothbrush and use the side of it to horizontally push from the bottom of the tube upwards . This pressure pushes all the remaining toothpaste to the top. And when it's really looking empty, I put the cap on and cut the tube about one half to three quarter inch from the top. Use a toothpick or Qtip to put the remaining toothpaste on your brush. Of course your hands must be clean.