One that really didn't "make it" for me is Spirit of Freedom. It hangs on, and it gives a few blooms a year, that flop, and often ball (people say it likes warm climates), and it is in a rose hedge in NE exposure. But in the sunnier spot, I didn't get one viable bloom. I also couldn't get my two own-root Othellos to take off for anything, but they seem so pretty, I may try again (you can still find them under their secondary name "Auslo"). But I now know that it was "my fault" some of my Austins that didn't make it . Like, for example, thanks to this forum, I learned that it takes a few years (at least 3 years) for many to get going, so I maybe I SP them too soon. When I first started gardening, I put things in the ground, never watered them, and if they made it, they made it, and surprisingly, quite a few of them did, including Lady Emma Hamilton and Claire Austin, which are both 16 years old, and survived a move. But they definitely were not giving the "best" of themselves. When I got a bigger garden, and tried some new Austins, I was really disappointed because I had so few blooms and a few croaked, so I started planting other things, but now am going back to them. Here are a couple of things I have learned from that experience (and thank you to the experts on this forum, among others like the Rose Geek and Darren Harwood, as my roses have never looked better or had buds so early!): 1) Soak bareroot roses longer and harder than most basic websites say (I even resurrected a few that seemed dry and dead in the box by leaving them soaking for days, and wow, did they hit the ground running compared to the ones from years past and has less die back) 2) in my opinon, it's better to get bareroots early in the season, when it's still warm, and plant before winter because the ones at the end of planting season can be dried-out conkers and they may freeze as they begin 3) plant them with good commercial dirt and feed if you have bad dirt in the ground (which I do) 4) and if potted, totally plant them with their dirt 5) to get the best of roses, it really is essential to feed or compost on the schedule experts like the Rose Geek give (In my "worst" exposure, I thought my lack of blooms, at first was due to not enough sun, but if I feed, I even get blooms in late fall, when they only get like an hour or two, and the healthier they are, the fewer diseases they get (like people) 6) DA roses and "baby" (new) roses do need more water than one thinks--this was my worst rookie mistake 7) many DA roses like cool and humid better than hot and dry 8) and, if struggling, don't hesitate to move them from hot to cooler, more or less sun, pot or ground, sometimes they come back in a new spot but sometimes they don't 9) Don't hesitate to put in the compost (or SP) a disease or pest magnet, as, when it's gone, the disease goes, and like jobs and partners, some are just a "bad fit" for one, even if good for others 10) giving roses a "haircut" ( remove leaves and prune) seems to help if massive infestation or disease attack, they will come back, and especially, get rid of leaves during winter prune, and that is how I got rid of nasty fungal attack due to bad experience with Baron Girod d'Ain. Also, in Europe, the DA roses I have are either on Laxa, own-root, or occasionally multi-flora, and they seem to perform quite differently than their US counterparts. Like my own-root Princes are healthy, continuous blooming stars. And my own-root Abes are a real toughies, too. These may be the basics for many people on this forum, but some DA roses are super tricky, and I almost gave up, so here is everything I have learned for those who are as frustrated as I was when I started! (And I am still learning so please take this advice as the imperfect, work in progress, it is! And thanks again to the experts here!)

I live in zone 10 and have had luck with my Austins grafted on Dr Huey. You can order them directly from David Ausitns roses online. They have excellent customer service there. I originally had two own roots from Heriloom roses and they never bloomed. Once in a blue moon. My Glamis Castle died and my St. Cecilia is just sitting there two years later with a few stems and no flowers. Still small as can be. I then ordered 4 bare root grafted roses from DA and they have all done well. But by far the best performer was my Huntington Rose (pictured). She was listed in the special zone 9-10 list on DA's website and she has out performed my other 3. The other three are doing well but not nearly as many blooms as Huntington. Because of this i went back and ordered 3 more roses specifically from their list of warm climate roses. They are Mary Rose, Abraham Darby (supposedly one of the best DAs out there) and Darcy Bussell. Their list can be found here http://www.davidaustinroses.com/american/Advanced.asp?PageId=2063 on the bottom half. I'd really like to try a david austin on Fort. roots. Just to see if it makes a big difference. I've heard dr huey does well in Florida too (second best) so I wonder if it makes a huge difference (i have a few teas that are on fort and they do pretty much the same as all my huey roses, no real difference that i can tell). I wish I had more space! I'd have a hundred roses and half of them would be Austins. Here is a link that might be useful: DA's for our climate

Sophia, Treloars ( in Victoria ) sell Soul Sister, bare root, winter mail order. They are on line, so, if you haven't checked them out yet, give them a look. They also have a very comprehensive list of DA roses. If you are looking for Julia Child at any time ( some VERY beautiful pics on various threads) Treloars have that listed as Soul Mate.

It just so happens I have a layered Cryptomeria japonica 'Elegans' about the size you want, David. It's a rooted branch from a tree I had to cut down because it was leaning across the driveway. Here's a picture of it. The second picture is of the tree that sprouted from the stump and the rooted branch. Mike You can see where I cut it from the rest of the branch. It has grown to about 6 ft. and will be removed in a few weeks. The original stump is too large to move. Well, I might try it because I have nothing to lose. It's no good where it's at.