Go to Johnnys Seeds web site and clic on the type of vegatable you want to grow then click on the growing information highlight the information copy and past it into a word processing program then move on to the next one and repete the process and soon you will have growing information on all of the vegatables you can grow. here's the one from lettuce. Remember to go alphabeticaly from a to z. www.johnnyseeds.com Growing Information: CULTURE: Lettuce is hardy and can be planted as early as the soil can be worked. It is a cool weather crop and makes its best growth at temperatures of 60-65°F (16-18°C). Careful variety selection is important for hot weather crops. Sow every 3 weeks for a continuous supply of fresh lettuce. THERMAL DORMANCY: Lettuce can be dormant at high temperatures. For best germination results sow at soil temperatures of 68°F (20°C) or lower. The priming process in pelleted lettuce seeds broadens the temperature range in which the seeds will germinate, overcoming some of a lot's thermal dormancy. TRANSPLANTING: Sow in flats, 4 seeds/in., or in 3/4' plug trays, barely covering seeds with fine vermiculite, 3-4 weeks before transplanting outdoors. Shade the flats on sunny, warm days if necessary to keep the soil surface cool, below 75°F (24°C), until germination. If sowing into flats, transplant 1-2' apart into flats, pots, or cell-type containers about 2 weeks later. Harden seedlings by reducing water and temperature for 2-3 days before planting outdoors. Properly hardened transplants can survive temperatures as low as 20°F (-6°C). Transplant iceberg lettuce 12' apart in rows 18' apart, other types 8-12' x 12-18' apart. DIRECT SEEDING: Seeds germinate even at low, 40°F (4°C), soil temperature, but poorly above 75-85°F (24-29°C) depending on the variety and seed lot. Cover seed lightly, about 1/8', and firm soil gently. Dry soil must be watered to ensure coolness and moisture, and for even germination. Thin young seedlings to one plant per spot. For salad mix: sow in a 2-4' wide band, about 60 seeds/ft. MT0 SEEDS: A variety name followed by MT0-10 indicates that the seeds offered for sale in sizes larger than a packet have been tested for the presence of lettuce mosaic virus and that no LMV was found in a sample of 10,000 seeds or less. MT0-30 indicates that no LMV was found in a sample of 30,000 seeds tested. NOTE: A disease-free test result does not guarantee a seedlot to be disease-free, only that in the sample tested, the pathogen targeted was not found. DAYS TO MATURITY: For full-size heads from direct seeding and growth in mild temperatures; subtract 10-14 days if transplanting. Note: maturity can be 3 or more weeks later in cool weather, and up to 1 week earlier in hot weather. AVG. DIRECT SEEDING RATE: For full-size heads (precision seeded): 5,300'/oz., 220'/1,000 seeds, 5.5 oz./acre at 3 seeds every 8' in rows 18' apart. For salad mix: 400'/oz., 16'/1,000 seeds, 6,400'/lb. At 60 seeds/ft. TRANSPLANTS: Avg. 20,000 plants/oz. SEED SPECS: SEEDS/OZ.: 20,000-30,000 (avg. 24,000). MINI: 0.5 gm. unless otherwise noted (avg. 400 seeds, sows about 17' at 24 seeds/ft., or makes 250 transplants). PACKET: 1 gm. unless otherwise noted (avg. 800 seeds, sows 34' or makes about 480 plants).

glib- yes, I know if I saw that in a seed catalog, I would be interested, for sure! I suppose the best bet is to take one of its own flowers and do my best to be the pollinator. I'm kinda large for a bee, but maybe I can manage... As for the bolting, I wonder if we mean the same thing (I mean flowerhead formation)... It's just that while we recently had a big swing between the 68-70 a couple of weeks ago to 90+ the next week, that was not the first time it happened since the plants have been out. I'm just curious because it's only the 2nd time growing this for me and the 1st was last fall so heat wasn't an issue. I don't want to go around thinking it holds well in the heat only to find that this batch (or spring) is unusual...

The winter sowing concept is quite interesting. I have been saving containers with the intention of trying out this method one of these years. Plants/seedlings are doing fine at this point. I am heavy into up-potting seedlings now. Everything I wanted to seed is now seeded in flats. I had a lot of germination problems this year with Burpee seeds - never had a problem in the past but this is probably enough for me to be done with this company for good. I know others on GW don't like Burpee seeds for this reason. Any tricks to growing greens in containers? My seedlings of lettuce, spinach, etc. are doing fine but plants seem a bit "floppy". I am hoping the wind action will stiffen up the plants' stems a little better. They are outpacing what I early-seeded in the kitchen garden, but the plants in the kitchen garden aren't floppy. Very interesting being able to see comparisons. A couple days ago I caught a rabbit - on the porch of all places - munching on my little potted container greens. I didn't start the conflict, but the war is on. -Tom

A question for experts... will aggressive harvesting help delay bolting when it comes to arugula and other leafy greens? Additional info: I usually snip off leaves as needed, but I could just make a big batch of arugula pesto and harvest/refrigerate the greens. We are also expecting very hot temps. 95F here in southern Ontario, and it has already been unseasonably warm the last few days. My greens are growing so fast, I simply can't keep up. I plant my arugula, baby lettuce, spinach, mesclun, etc in window box type planters so I can move them to shaded areas, which I have been doing the last couple of days. Also keeping them well watered just in case. It seems like we skipped spring this year.. sigh.