How to remove/fix wet look sealer on concrete
ftpcity
16 years ago
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jamyhead
14 years agoRelated Discussions
Urgent! Concrete slab poured too small, how to fix?
Comments (16)Well, The engineer did provide an updated design and stamp of approval on the poured product. The builder moved quick to remedy the situation. I'm still a bit concerned though, as I contacted several structural engineers and 2 of them said they would NEVER add-on as described and the other 2 said it was perfectly acceptable. I'm waiting to hear back from the PTI (Post-Tensioning Institute) to see what they say. I don't know that I have any recourse except to walk away from my deposit which is not an insignificant amount of money. Any yes, the soil conditions and cost both contribute to the use of the post-tensioned slab which is the most common construction method here in Houston....See MoreBest concrete sealer to prevent salt damage? Any virgin concrete
Comments (5)There are many sealing products out there that make outrageous claims. If you are not a chemist, you are right it can be hard to tell who is telling the truth. Or worse yet, many people are quick to give advice on subjects they really aren't experts in. In order to keep salt out of your concrete you want fluids to get in. Namely water carrying salt is what penetrates and damages (breaks csa bonds) your slab. 2. You want something that will last and not have recoat every year. 3. There is one category of product that will fit your needs. A siloxane/ silane modified acrylic sealer will offer protection for about 2-3 years. Depending if the slab is stamped or just brush finish will determine the gloss level of sealer you will want. Stamped is normally high gloss to enhance color variations. 4. One other category of excellent sealers is completely silicon base. These sealers bond awesome, come in satin or high gloss, hold up under UV and protect from salt extremely well. There are only two manufacturers that I know of because they are both patented. Adsil is one brand and Heal and Seal is the other. You can find Heal and Seal at http://www.walttools.com/heal-and-seal/ 5. If you put a high gloss sealer down I would use silica sand or Tru Grip as a slip resistant additive. Otherwise the slab will be slippery without ice. Also, do not just use a densifier to try to protect against salt damage. They are just silica or silica salts that react with portland or free lime - if it is available in the slab, to make more concrete on a micro scale. While this may make the concrete a little less permeable- salt will no doubt still get in and damage it. Hope this helps...See More'wet look' sealer too slippery for pool deck?
Comments (8)A slippery pool deck is usually due to a sealed concrete surface. The best way to help with an existing sealed concrete surface is to have an additional coat of sealer with "Grip" in it. It will allow the sealer to have a grip like a sandpaper finish. There are different levels of grip you can add but you also should know what type of sealer was used to be able to reseal it correctly. Concrete pool decks are most often sealed with a solvent based acrylic, available from your local specialty concrete supply store or you can have the work done by a local decorative concrete company. Here is a link that might be useful: Fixing a slippery concrete surface...See MoreLooking For Side Concrete Patio Ideas After Porch Was Removed
Comments (9)The area is close enough to grade that concrete seems more appropriate as the solution. I wouldn't let present lack of knowledge keep you from finding out about it. The basics about concrete placement are fairly simple and straightforward. The process of placing a slab there would be simpler than building a deck. Yet it still requires that you do the right things at the right times. You can find about the basics by watching a few YouTube videos. You'll probably need one step down from the door. I'd make is spacious ... at least 24" depth x 5' width, centered with the door. Instead of looking at the 3 rectangles as separate areas, I'd view them as parts of a whole, and try to integrate whatever finish/technique you choose throughout the whole project ... rather than have it look like different pieces were added on at different times. One thing I'd caution you about with stamped concrete is that some patterns have too much texture for comfort. While they look great, they may be irritating to walk on for some people with certain shoes. Some nice, simple effects can be obtained with careful scoring patterns. I've seen slabs with 12" edge bands scored all around their border that looked quite handsome for very little added cost. There's a wide range of cost, depending on what you want. It would be easier to place the concrete, while the fence is not in the way, and then add the fence and gate afterward. Be sure to get the concrete level where the gate will cross it....See Moreisabella__MA
14 years agoagupton
14 years agoironbelly1
14 years agoHU-540903740
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