Here is a quote from a publication by NCSU on peppers that I think answers you question regarding fruit set. A link to the entire pub is below. "Peppers are frost-intolerant warm-weather annuals that grow best at 70 to 80 degrees F temperatures. Peppers have less cold tolerance than tomatoes, although more than eggplants. Temperatures below 59 degrees F during ripening reduce capsaicin content and fruit will not set at night temperatures below 60 degrees F. Peppers have more drought tolerance in terms of plant survival than either tomatoes or eggplants, but will abort young fruit at high temperatures (> 80 degrees F day or 70 degrees F night) and low humidities even if adequate soil moisture is present." Green beans are also sensitive to excessively hot temperatures and dry conditions and will abort the blooms just as you have seen. I would avoid watering them at night if you are using a sprinkler system. The longer the leaves stay wet, the more opportunity for diseases to get a foothold on them. Early morning sprinkling, or soaker/drip watering anytime, may keep them healthy enough to start producing when your temperatures cool off. Sandy Here is a link that might be useful: Peppers

Plant-Tone is a good balanced organic fertilizer with microbes. I've used Miracle Grow too, but it's best for producing leaves, so lay off it now for pepper production. I would switch to the other products I mentioned above now. The best thing I did for my peppers this year was roll out sunshade about 7ft above the whole garden plot once temps reached 95 back in May. This lowers water requirements, helps prevent sunscald, and lowered temps enough to keep them producing all summer. When temps went over 100 every day I also rolled out sunshade on the west wall of the garden as I was getting some sunscalding on the peppers on that side of the plot. This has been the hottest July on record in Tx with an *average* temp of just under 90 degrees. It's also been my personal best year for peppers. Don't let people tell you they won't set fruit when the temps climb over 95. Just give them midday and afternoon filtered sun/shade. Try Gypsies and Sweet Banana peppers next year. Hard to go wrong with those. Tasty and prolific.

Hi I have a momotaro and have the same problem. I found a condtion called curly top caused by a virus. My new leaves c curl upward. I am deciding whether to take it out and plant another. I understand that curly top is not contagious and can only be spread by a certain bug. All my other tomato plants which are not momotaro are doing fine.

The link you posted to the video is partially faulty. Below is one that works. The extreme pressure drop when the pump stops is puzzling. Is your pump submersible or jet? Based on your description, either the Schrader valve could be leaking or the bladder could be faulty. Check the Schrader valve by spitting on your finger and rub it on the end of the valve--look for active bubbles. But those do not explain the drop to 45 when the pump stops and then the pressure holding there. Here is a link that might be useful: Video This post was edited by bus_driver on Fri, Apr 19, 13 at 15:26