Thanks for the additional photos, Michael. I am assuming that you haven't a huge amount of gardening experience, so I'll apologize in advance if I am telling you things that you already know. My personal preference overall would be to plant the entire area out to the concrete walkway and widen the bed around the corner wider as well, for at least part of the distance down the side. That might a good place for the hydrangeas. I would also use shrubs along with perennials (and a few annuals if you want extra color or to fill in until the perennials and shrubs get bigger) to get some variety similar to what you have now. About your current beds: I notice black plastic(?) or landscape fabric in your bed under the mulch unless you have pulled it out since the photos were taken. As someone who made that mistake earlier in my gardening years and also inherited it from the previous resident of my current house, I don't think that you want to continue that as it will interfere with how the soil "lives." It will restrict water and oxygen exchange and cause all kinds of problems down the road when it starts to decompose and when the plants start growing roots into it. If you want more info or opinions, go to the one of the following forums and put "landscape fabric" into the search at the bottom of the thread listings: landscape design, perennials, and perhaps shrubs. Your bark or wood chip mulch is great, since it will help keep moisture levels even and suppress weeds. If you want something under it to further help prevent weed growth, corrugated cardboard or multiple layers of newspaper work well to suppress weeds without the problems caused by landscape fabric. I generally put down cardboard or newspaper and then at least 3 inches of mulch on top of that in all my shrub and perennial beds. What you can plant will depend on how much organic matter you are able and willing to put into your sandy soil. Gardenweed has given you a fine list of plants that in general do well in drier situations, though a few (lLobelia cardinalis/cardinal flower, Delphinium, peonies, Campanula/bellflower and Siberian iris) will do better in somewhat richer, less dry soil. If you have access to lots of organic matter through a town composting program, a nearby farm with composted manure, lots of old leaves, or some similar source, or if you have the money to buy a large quantity of compost, then dig in more than you think is needed into the first several inches up to a foot of the bed and you will have a wider range of plants to choose from. Tree oracle suggested conifers (good for winter interest so there aren't just dead sticks there) and roses, specifically Knockouts, which are long-blooming, disease resistant, and not fussy at all from everything I've read (no personal experience.) I grow the following roses: John Davis (large bush or short climber), Lady Elsie Banks, a white double rugosa, Rosa mundi, and a no ID that is common at old farmhouses here. I don't fuss with any of them other than to knock Japanese beetles into a can of soapy water while I wander through the garden early morning before work, though many are once-bloomers that are finished before the beetles emerge. No disease problems on any of them. Some other plants that will like or tolerate a relatively dry bed beyond Gardenweed's list include Nepeta/catmint, creeping thyme, alchillea/yarrow, calluna/heather (though not right next to the concrete foundation since it likes acidity) which is actually a short fine-textured shrub that can have colorful foliage, lavender, penstemon, Thermopsis caroliniana/carolina lupine (though not a lupine - similar to Baptisia), many of the veronica, hemerocallis/daylily. Most of these won't mind a bed with better soil also. Some plants that need somewhat better soil include perennial geraniums, dianthus/pinks (which aren't all pink in color), crocosmia, Iberis sempervirens/candytuft, tall phlox (get a mildew resistant type), Thalictrum rochebrunianum/lavender mist meadow rue. I can see a clematis on an obelisk looking great here, maybe behind the shrub on the corner where it will get some of the extra moisture from the downspout, but not be in its path. I also really value spring bulbs for early color and have found that if I plant them at the deepest end of the recommendation they seem to need dividing less often. I have daffodils that are probably 10 years old and haven't needed dividing yet - they still bloom prolifically. Just plant them where perennial foliage will hide the withering daff foliage. I also have reticulated iris (bought from Brent and Becky's bulbs on the web since they aren't common locally) which are budded up at the base of my foundation now and will be done blooming by mid-April before the daffs even start. I love seeing flowers in March! Both these don't mid dry summer soil at all. A couple of non-evergreen shrubs that will be fine in average soil include weigela (several shorter varieties with colored or variegated leaves) and spirea. Your neighbor's rhododendrons seem to be doing okay, and there are some shorter varieties such as PJM 'Checkmate' that hasn't cleared 3 feet in my garden. Conifers such as junipers ( get a short variety), birdsnest spruce, or one of the short varieties of Chamaecyparis would probably do well here or even one of the miniature Colorado blue spruce/Picea pungens. To get specific suggestions of types, try the conifer forum, the rhododendron forum, or the shrub forum. I often go to nearby nurseries to see what they have, read labels, take copious notes, go home and do internet research, and then go buy based on what is available that fits my needs. Some general things to consider in planning your bed. -Think about a way to have your hose holder be a bit less visible; either paint it to match the siding or move it out of sight behind a shrub or around the corner. Right now its contrasting color makes it grab attention. -Do your soil prep before you bring home plants. In general, the better your soil, the better the garden will be and the easier to care for. That extra organic matter will help hold moisture and nutrients rather than letting them trickle on through the soil. Add enough and the hydrangeas might even be happy here. -Plant things near the downspout that won't mind a bit of extra moisture, and maybe put several rocks right in front of the concrete catcher to break the water's force before it gets to the garden. -Think about leaf shape, size, color, and texture. There won't always be lots of perennials blooming, so foliage that offers variety and interest will keep things looking nice even when there aren't lots of flowers. -Plant lower things below the windows unless you want them blocked. I have used annual vines (scarlet runner beans) on strings over western windows to help keep the house cooler, but generally don't like to spend time trying to keep the plants away from the windows, so plant things with lower height there. -Most gardens look better with not just one of this and one of that - have some repetition, whether it is of foliage color, specific plant, flower color, though I have seen gardens that are an absolute riot of variety that still look lovely. Your current garden with the two hydrangeas and the several lobelia (?) have variety of height and foliage texture, but related flower color and more than one of each specific plant. - Look for gardens you like in your neighborhood or as you walk and drive around. Look now as well as during gardening season so that you can decide about what you want your garden to look like in winter. Often gardeners will be more than happy to ID plants for you if they are outside and you can get a sense of what you like. Your local library may have books that talk about garden design or have lots of eye candy (my favorite!) to look at now. One good one (but not huge amounts of eye candy) is The Well-Designed Mixed Garden by Tracy DiSabato-Aust. Have fun and let us know how it goes.

When it comes to layout of proposed elements you wish to add to the yard, you should be working in plan view, not in perspective view with photos. They're fine for general ideas and inspiration, but placement needs to be in a plan that is drawn to scale. Based on the photos, though, I suspect you are placing the fireplace much to far away to be useful. A parterre garden is fine if that is what one wants and is willing to maintain. It is a high maintenance feature, however, so no mystery as to why its rarely seen in typical yards. Is someone in your family sufficiently into gardening that they would be willing to maintain a parterre? If not, it would be far more advantageous for you to put your efforts into general landscaping. Another consideration would be the exact plants you hope to grow in a parterre and if you have enough light for them. I didn't see that you said where you're located so I don't think you can expect much in the way of plant recommendations. If you're where they grow, many people grow bromeliads below live oaks, especially the 'flaming torch.'

Though I said I can’t suggest plants, I do have some thoughts to throw out in case you haven’t already had them yourself. You mentioned landscape design cost @ $1500. - have you checked costs for a just a planting plan design with you buying your materials & DIY labor? Some larger nurseries do provide that limited design service ( or can recommend someone) &, especially if you ask, will give you a discount if you’re buying most or all of your plants from them. I got a 10% all season long discount from a nursery after showing them my professional landscape design plan for both hardscape & plant material so they could see we were starting from scratch with a new home. We were installing the plants as DIY because I wanted to choose them, swap some from plan, control costs & I like doing it. You said your neighborhood has other terraced yards - have you / can you look at them up close & take pics of planted layouts & of specific plants that appeal? I Googled images of terraced front yards in Atlanta & there are a lot of them to look at for ideas. Your comments “assuming we’re looking for cub appeal...”. & “Should I be mixing in evergreens...”. Absolutely, yes on both counts! Planting evergreens provides year round appeal and structure. I would explore true dwarf conifers, spring flowering shrubs, some very low evergreen ground covers (think elfin Thyme), spring bulbs - how beautiful scattered through those layers! I would avoid a row of tall plantings that would completely hide your stone foundation that is a decorative feature. Be mindful of mature size of any trees you plant as they may change the light received on the terrace & shade out your plants. I don’t know if your front scape was completely shaded before the loss of your huge tree but I bet your light has changed. I’d look at a smallish flowering tree to place closest to house. All of these flowers & textures may be a happy medium between your idea of English garden look & wife’s idea of 3 season blooms & foundation color. I’m leaning towards your wife’s idea. I do admire English gardens but not for a front yard -too many flowers & too winter bare. With your property, it sounds like you have space for one somewhere, right?

In looking at the first photo I was wondering how one gains access to the door. I prefer when there is a clear path to the entrance. I also notice in later pictures that shrubs were planted much too close to the house. My suggestion would be to reshape the border to eliminate the bed on the street side of the path. New shrubs should not be planted so close to the house. The remainder of the beds could be filled with low perennials/ground cover. I do not live in your zone so I can't recommend specific plants. Black or navy blue would be nice for the door.