Laying pavers on dried concrete with control joints
elbow
9 years ago
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marcinde
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
Paver Retaining VS Concrete Block Walls
Comments (1)There is no technical reason not to use modular block (also called segmental retaining wall or SRW - what you are calling a "paver"). If you go with a mortared block wall, you should have a footing below grade down to the frost line which adds considerable work and expense. If you don't, it will crack from freeze/thaw movement. One benefit of SRW's is that they are designed to move with the freeze/thaw cycle. That eliminates the need to put a footing several feet down in the ground saving on excavation, material (you don't need blocks between the footing and grade), and not having to destabilize a slope with a deep hole at its base while constructing it. Another benefit is that they do not require a high degree of skill and training to construct, so you have a lot more and cheaper people available to build these. They are an easier DIY project, but not that easy. Still another benefit is that they are rather easy to drain. Water buildup in the soil behind retaining walls is often the cause of wall failure. SRW are not universally loved. In some places they are seen as high class and in other places they are accepted as cheap looking suburbia or industrial park looking. It depends what part of the country you live in and the taste of the area. Stone walls (well crafted) are seen as timeless and universally accepted as high end. They cost 50-100% more than SRWs due to the skill, training, labor time, and availability of qualified people to do the work. We do not see very many stucco concrete block walls in my area. I don't know that I have seen a new one at all. The SRWs and stone walls have replaced them. Their failure rate has something to do with it since many are not built on proper footings....See MoreStone dust vs sand for laying pavers? Help!
Comments (41)25 years ago I had to choose between stone dust and sand when laying a brick patio using standard sized bricks. The underlying ground here in Virginia is fairly high content clay, I can absolutely state that stone dust is the way to go.... here are a few pointers; 1. Use a rigid but moderately flexible edge guard to define the area. I used aluminum about 4 inches tall. Don's use something softer like plastic or nylon as it will flex and your bricks will start to migrate all over the place no matter whether you use sand or stone dust. 2 . Use 4 inches of stone dust, but apply 2 inches first...then compact it with a manual or mechanical tamper....then thoroughly soak with water and wait a couple of days before applying the 2nd layer of stone dust and tamping and watering again. (BTW, I really don't understand the comments about stone dust not draining well....you will see the water soak quickly through the stone dust.) 3. Make the area as level as possible using a screed (look it up :) 4. Install some water permeable landscaping membrane on a fairly well leveled area. This will promote drainage and stop weeds from infiltrating from below. I will also make it easier to slide the bricks into place. 5. Install the brick. Either full size bricks or the thinner pavers. I used full size bricks which are more stable. To ensure that the bricks are level with one another, place a piece of piece of wood (approx 3" x 8" by 3/4" ) across the surfaces of the brick you are working on and its adjoining bricks...then hammer it with a large mallet until they all the bricks are even. Give then some good wacks...full-sized bricks can take it so long as you use wood as a buffer. Be gentler with the thinner pavers. 6. Depending upon your personal preference, you can butt the bricks directly up against one another or place a think spacer between them. I use pieces of asphalt roofing shingles to maintain uniform spacing. I like the look and using spacers allowed me to adjust the alignment for bricks which may not be uniform size. 7. Regardless of which way you go on item 6, sweep stone dust into the joints between the bricks. Wet the area, let it dry and repeat again. The irregular shapes of the stone dust will lock the bricks into position much better than sand, which is more round. Sand will not get into some of the smaller joints between bricks. 28 years later I am still VERY happy with my results. Occasionally a nearby tree root will distort things a bit but that will happen with either sand or stone dust. I just remove a few bricks and cut out the root. The only periodic maintenance I need to do is sweep new stone dust in the spaces between the bricks one ever 4-5 years. Good luck....See MoreExpansion joint between coping and travertine pavers?
Comments (4)We do not have travertine, but after seeing your picture, and with the information I gained while choosing materials for coping/decking, what you have should be fine. The problem, in my understanding, occurs if you do not have a separate coping and decking - in other words, one continuous piece of concrete, or whatever material you use. People who get the stamped concrete may have one solid piece in order to avoid a choppy look when you get to the coping, but the concrete should be sawcut to allow for expansion. Hope that makes sense and puts you at ease. What we have is like yours, only ours is a cast stone. Same method of laying it though....See MoreNew concrete patio rising after cracking on joints.
Comments (11)Previously the area had a small concrete pad that had a deck built over the pad. The Deck was sagging when we bought the home and we found that the deck supports sitting on the very end of the original pad had cracked it. The base from the original concrete pad was used and expanded upon which was made up of mainly sand it appeared. It was compacted and poured at 4" allowing proper time to cure and dry. Soil in our area is a lot of clay but the the top soil that is used with grading is a large amount of sand. The general contractor we used is a friend and does not seemed concerned with anything his concrete team did or didn't due and said it is most likely happening now because after the very wet May/June we had, it is now getting really dry and will most likely move back once it is wet again....See Moredeviant-deziner
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agoelbow
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agoYardvaark
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agoelbow
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agoYardvaark
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agoelbow
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agoYardvaark
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agojohn_hammer
9 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
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