1. If there is sod, you need to remove it first since you are planning on planting this spring. (For areas that you think you might want to plant next year, cut the sod now and turn upside down, leaving it there for the whole year). Depending on the size of the area and the lay of the land (i.e. flat and smooth versus hilly and/or bumpy) you might consider renting a sod cutter. This will bring the sod up in strips. Otherwise, you are going to have to cut it out manually. Get a good, sharp, sharp, combination shovel or spade. Did I mention that it should be sharp? Yeah, like don't-run-your-finger-down-the-edge-of-it sharp. Whatever method you choose, get the sod out and pile it as a start of a compost pile.

If you do not have sod, and you simply have bare soil with lots of weeds, then have at the weeds with a large mower or a weed-whacker, then a sharp hoe. Did I mention that it should be sharp? :-)

If you do not have an aversion to using chemicals, you could use RoundUp. However, if you are going to be planting in a few weeks, I would avoid this route.

After weeds and/or sod have been removed, you can do one of two things: rototill or hand work.

If you rototill, you are going to be tilling the soil in progressive depths. If you are working more than a few hundred square feet, rent the rear tine self-propelled tiller. If it is a fairly small area, a front tine tiller will suffice. (However, if it is a small area, consider doing hand work). Depth on the initial pass should be superficial. Then, do a second pass, working down 2 to 3 inches. At this point, I would stop for the day, get a beer, and relax for the good work to come.

Hand work (by itself or after tilling) isn't too bad, as long as you follow two rules: use good quality, properly sized and properly sharpened tools; don't try to do too much at once.

2. Ideally, you should have a soil test done to determine what, if any, ammendments should be used. A good soil test will tell you what you need and how much of it you will need. However, in lieu of a soil test, you usually can't go wrong with the following ammendments/fertilizers:

1/2" - 1" of good, quality compost, spread over the tops of the growing beds (but not the pathways)

4 parts (by volume, not weight) seed meal, like alfalfa, soybean, cottonseed, etc. or well composted chicken manure
1 part dolomitic lime
1 part bone meal
1 part kelp meal (if you can find it, and if it's not too expensive)

You are aiming for about a gallon per 100 square feet of growing area.

Broadcast the fertilizer at a ratio of about 1 gallon per 100 square feet. Then, using your sharp shovel, scrape about 2 or 3 inches of soil from the pathways in between the beds you have marked out (usually, beds are no wider than 4 foot, and as long as you want, but I pick between 25 and 50 feet) and scoop that soil onto the bed areas. Using your sharp shovel, hoe or fork, work the bed soil down a full shovel length. Pry it, swirl it, rock it, turn it, etc. etc. Work the soil a little bit at a time, always working the area you were just standing on, and in no time at all, you will have very nice, well tilthed soil (depending on your soil makeup to start with). Don't ever, ever walk on the beds again as long as they will be growing something.

When you are ready to plant transplants or seeds, you need to rake out a nice seed bed. Using a hard rake, pull the stones and hard clods off the top of the bed and down into the pathways.

3. Mulch is a personal preference and depends largely on where you live. In NJ, general wisdom is that it is beneficial to mulch, but only after the soil has warmed up for things like tomatoes, peppers, cukes, squash, etc. After the plants are up and running, you can start with newspaper (3 or 4 layers) and then top with (ideally) a well mixed and well chopped mixture of grass clippings, leaves, and straw. If you can't get straw, use grass clippings and leaves, but make sure they are well mixed and well chopped (otherwise they tend to mat and carpet the soil).

4a. Wait until seeds have come up before mulching. I know the permanent mulchers/Ruth-Stout'ers will tell you otherwise, but I find the thick mulch keeps the soil too cool during the crucial germination/transplant stages. Exceptions could be made for cold crops like peas, lettuce, spinach and brassicas.

Well, I hope that helps.

Michael

Helps me too Michael!!!!!!!

Thanks from Rhode Island!
)))))HUGS(((((