The ph and complete composition of mushroom compost is going to depend on what the mushroom growers use to make their compost and what they add to it. This will likely vary depending on what type of mushrooms are being grown. The mushroom farm where I get my compost uses gypsum for added calcium so I don't expect that the pH of mine is exceptionally high. The soil the OP has sounds like it is at least on the slightly acidic side (strawberrys mentioned.) And another component of the raised bed mix is peat so I doubt the problems in the raised bed are due to High pH. The manure/Mushroom compost mix may have a fair amount of nitrogen but if it was sterilized before being sold, then it may not have the necessary microbes in it to make the nitrogen available to the plants. Softmentor, your lengthy post about how plants and seeds can't grow in the non mineral soil media, I can't agree with. I have grown plants hydroponically and Therefore know that soil is not necessary. That said, most of my gardening is outside on the ground, the larger deeper rooted plants I'm sure reach the native soil, but a huge number of my plants are actually growing in deep layers of mulch and compost. I've found seedlings sprouting in 4' deep piles of wood chips before so saying that "Seeds can't grow in the "O" horizon, they need to be in the "A" horizon" just doesn't jive with what I have observed in my gardening nor in nature. Some seeds/plants may need the mineral soil more than others but most any plant you can grow in a container with a potting mix can grow without mineral soil provided it gets fertilized with what it needs.

How deep are your beds? I started mine by amending the existing clay soil by adding huge amounts of compost. This raised the level of the soil to the point that it filled the beds (over 2 years). I ended up with much beter soil than if I had started by adding more dirt and then having to ammend that too. Granted, my beds are only 8" tall but I have been able to grow everything I wanted including root crops like carrots and onions. It's too the point now that As I ammend every year I can transfer some of the excess amended soil that over-flows from the bed to other areas to help ammend that soil too.

"My largest bed is 4' x 25' x 14" deep, and is made with rough cut cedar that a friend with a small sawmill operation cut for me. This is the cheapest source that I know of, and you might be able to find a similar deal in your area. I would expect the boards to last at least 15-20 years, and no additional protective coating is necessary. Mine are supported by 4x4 posts cemented 18" deep in the ground, but I tend to really beef things up that are built on the property. Hope this helps. EG " EG, Where does one find such a sawmill? I also forgot to mention the tools I have on hand and my situation. I'm currently unemployed and funds are very tight. The veggie garden is my freedom for healthy foods and saving traveling costs AND I CONTROL IT so I know that there are NO PESTICIDES. Sorry for the caps there. On a ventage over that. I only have a cored circular saw (old, likely dull, spot rust, and can't find it right now), corded Borsh (sp?) hand drill, 12v Mikita cordless drill (both batteries dead, would wiring it to a 12v car battery straight make it work?), cheap hand rotary tool w/~100pc kit, corded jig saw, small hobby belt/disc sander (belt ~1" wide and disc ~5" diameter), large range of socket set heads, large set of hand tools +/-/[]. I have access to Lowes (not far from me), Home Depot (not far from me), and Rona (not far from me).

Well, most of them are straight I suppose. The problem is that I wanted 2) 2 ft. boards and 2) 4 ft. boards to build one bed. I am connecting these beds in rows. It seems as though some of the boards are a little too short and some of the boards are a little bit too long. When I connect them so that the tops are level some of them stick out and some of them stick in on the sides because they are not all exactly the same lengths. I suppose if I place all of the crooked ones facing the same way on the side I plan to espalier fruit then it really won't be an issue. I have half of the beds built. I spent yesterday lining up and matching the remaining boards so that I use matching sizes to build a bed. This way, they are all the same even though they may be a little more or a little less than I wanted them to be. I didn't do this the first time because I assumed they were all cut to spec. I don't know how to saw wood so maybe I should be more forgiving since the cuts are less than an inch off. Some of the boards really just weren't straight either. When I look at them the actual sawed off end is at an angle. Anyway, I have my first row together and maybe it won't be as noticeable once I espalier my trees on the crooked side of the beds. It sounds like rebuilding them at this stage is going to be a lot of work. I will really pay attention today and make sure that those screws go in straight. Phew! This is a lot harder than I thought it would be! I looked at your website and can't find the "how to build a raised bed" article but it looks really nice and very informative. I saw the one about constructing a bed on a slope but not for a basic box. I'll keep looking. I look forward to learning a lot from those of you with experience!