According to a "tomato timeline" posted here before and linked many times, It take about 52 days from the bud to the ripe fruit. This is for large fruits in the middle of growing season. But it can take shorter/less time for cherry types/sizes and smaller tomatoes. But I think later in the season and in cooler climates it can even take longer. So then you have to factor in the effect of late season cool weather that will slow down the growth and ripening of fruits significantly. For example my FFD is around mid November but our October weather will be too cold (and rainy/cloudy). So I would count backward 50 days from my average frost date ( say Nov. 10 -20th ) and start my pinch off schedule ( Sep 20 to 30th). And that is an optimistic outlook here. Even then probably I will end up with plenty of green tomatoes to pickle. So you have to decide what is best for you.

Yes, cukes grow fast - faster than tomatoes. Also, cuke seed can germinate in just 2-3 days if it's warm. Tomatoes can take 5-7 days, sometimes longer. Sounds like you've had the seed sowed for about 2-3 weeks, so most of your tomato seedlings are probably only 1-2 weeks old. So (depending on when they germinated), I wouldn't worry too much about the current small size of your tomato seedlings. However, most folks don't direct seed tomatoes for the best results. Various reasons - harder to control moisture, bugs may get the tiny seedlings, rains may beat them into the ground and bury them too deep for good germination, etc. I'm not sure about good planting dates for fall tomatoes for central Fla, but I think most of the central Fla folks start their tomato seeds for fall early to mid Aug. Hopefully, deltacharlie or one of the other Florida regulars will see your thread and weigh in with more specific advice.

As I have said before - you need to acquire some patience. ;) No, they will not be ripe when another truss has set fruit, they will BEGIN to ripen then. Tomato plants have their own time table - it's focus at this young age is plant growth and only a little energy is devoted to anything else - and no matter how hard you try, you aren't going to force them to live up to YOUR time table. If indeed, the fruits aren't growing, and it isn't as if you can see them grow, but the plant is, then as explained in one of your other posts, it may be because you have given the plant too much nitrogen fertilizer (the GP manure) but not enough of the phosphorus and potassium needed by the fruit. Do some research on the different types of nutrients needed by plants and how to provide them. This is vital for plants in containers like yours. Basically, nitrogen gets you leaves and branches, not fruit, phosphorus gets you blooms and fruit, potassium is for roots to supply the other nutrients to the plants. Dave

yellowing usually only means two things.. time for fertilizer (nitrogen) or over watering. based on the use of the miracle starter i'll say it's the former. the mix is only good for the first 2-3 weeks of growth, they are past due for some fertilizer. i would fertilize them and transplant them a week later. the ones on the left seem to be almost due for transplanting into something bigger.. verify by letting the medium dry out a bit then gently popping one out the cube. if the cube starts to fall apart then there more room for growth, if it the root ball stays together than it's time to transplant.