Wow, I can't believe anyone would allow the ivy to get all over the siding like that. If that's English Ivy, it will pull the mortar out of brick siding.

You'll just have to cut and pull it off. If you have any hopes of saving the siding, a putty knife to scrape the roots off might work, but I suspect the roots have crept under the layers of wood and are embedded in a way that will require re-siding that area.

Here is a link that might be useful: {{gwi:22571}}

Wow, you're in for some hard work!

Yeah, you're just going to have to yank it off, using a putty knife to try to scrape under the pads. Even if you do get lucky and the ivy hasn't eaten away the mortar, though, chances are you're still going to end up with lots of marks and traces of dead rootlets clinging to the surface - the Ghosts of Ivy Past.

I'd consider hiring help for this job, honestly. Ivy can be surprisingly pernicious.

As to what to replace it with, and whether to take out the cedars - yeah, you're thinking on dramatically different scales to replace cedars with painted ferns. I think you might miss those vertical elements. Why not start by getting rid of the ivy, and replacing that with the plants you like, and seeing how you like the effect? It would be a shame to take out the cedars and then find yourself buying new ones and wishing they were the height of the old ones. Remember though that hostas are not landscaping plants because they are gone half the year. I'm sort of thinking you might find yourself hankering after another vertical element to replace the ivy, and am thinking of a nice yew or something, or a Rhodo... it is a pretty big house, and could use some big plants to set it off.

Other than the ivy, what you have looks good with the modern architecture of the house. Is there an ornamental tree for your area that lends itself to espaliering? I can imagine a beautiful flowering espaliered tree in place of the ivy.

Firethorn (Pyracantha) or a Eurpean beech (Fagus sylvatica) espaliered (there are some cultivars that are great for that) would work without damaging siding, especially if you mount trellis for it to be espaliered on.

Thanks for suggestions - I've thought that we may have to replace the siding - it's a MESS underneath - and such a big job we've (that would be mostly "I") have been putting it off.
Would it make sense to take a saw to the bottom at the roots (which are are the size of my wrist) and let it die back some - or would it die back?? and would it make it easier to pry off?
Re the Pyracantha - can it take a northern exposure?
I understand what you are saying about the vertical element - being the house is so square and two stories - but I've kept the cedars as low as possible (so as not to impede the view from that window) and they are about 15+ years old and are getting pretty woody.
What about the dwarf Alberta Spruce in their place - they have them spiraled at our nursery and they are on sale - however I do like the light green color of the cedars against the brown/red of the house.......
Thanks again for any help and/or suggestions - we appreciate any and all comments.
P.

Pyracantha can take a northern exposure, and it's easy to espalier (if you don't mind the thorns). I think it would look great on your house.

Below is a link to a site explaining various English Ivy removal strategies. The "Girdling a Tree" link is really about how to remove ivy from a tree, but I think you might find it helpful for figuring out how to tackle that ivy on your siding from the stump up.

Here is a link that might be useful: Ivy Removal Methods

I don't like dwarf alberta spruce because the shape is too conical, it's prone to infestation by spider mites, and IMO they look like big green gumdrops. They're also horribly overused.

I have one that came with the house, and I've been meaning to cut it down for four years. Maybe this week.

I would urge you to cut the ivy at the base and leave it clinging to the house until it is very, very dead. Six months at least and it will look ugly. The leaves will dry up and fall off leaving just the vine tracery. If you can live with the 'dead' look for awhile then removal will be much easier. It appears that the siding is smooth, so you may be able to then wire brush or scrape it with a putty knife lightly and restain. You really will not know how serious the damage is until the ivy is gone.

When you cut back the ivy, immediately brush (using a small paint brush) full strength brush killer on each cut stump piece. This should kill off the growing roots. If the ivy continues to send out new shoots, keep cutting them off and painting the cuts with the brush killer.

Yes, I have never perceived the attraction of Dwarf Alberta Spruce. I like the espaliered beech idea. There might also be some useful Cotoneasters that would work here.

Ditto on dwarf Alberta spruce. It is a green blob that is much overtouted. But because it is small and well behaved, it is dropped in as a "shrub" with foundation plantings.

When a weeping beech is espaliered right, it is a fantastic vertical -- and horizonal -- element that has year round appeal. One of the most dramatic examples I've seen is a 30-year-old, 20' specimen trained up a stone accent wall on redwood synagogue. It is impeccable and looks beautiful even in winter.

Got it - the Alberta Spruce is definitly out!! (I hate gumdrops!!)
I've just spent quite some time looking for pics of the espaliered beech and came across one that is quite small (young) but I liked the look and I think I can imagine it when it is a bit more mature.
Questions - are they easy to espalier (is that correct?) - can anyone point me to info on doing it? This is new for me and it sounds as though it should be done "properly".
- OK for north exposure?
- Only 1 1/2 - 2" of ground between house and blacktop - is there enought room for the roots?
- what about replacements for the cedars? - any suggestions? - I can start new ones - they grow like weeds here, but it would be nice to have a change.
We're cutting the roots on the vine - thanks for the suggestions.... you guys are great!!
Pat
I can't wait to post pictures of a 4 month "hopefully" dead vine - maybe I could paint it the same color of the cedar siding so it won't look so ugly.....;o)

We had an ivy of similar size growing on our co-op siding. I second the advice to leave it dead on the wall for atleast 6 months before removing. It made removal easier for us, but it did look ugly in the meantime.

And I think your home has lovely modern curb appeal. It would look great with the espalier firethorn, or even something very vertical and modern - perhaps a tall woody bamboo?

Patsy,
The sand fleas have driven me out of the garden this morning. They bite! So, I will spend a little time on your question.

Above Cady has touched on an important point. When planting against wood siding one must understand that winds will whip branches which in turn rub the siding, leaving scars. I would veto using Pyracantha as its thorns can do a great deal of damage to siding. Ditto bamboos inclucing clumping forms for the same reason and not suitable for those growing conditions.

So, your first consideration should be the construction of a strong trellis attached to the house but set out from the siding about 3". Any good carpenter knows how to do this.

I do not visualize the 'standard' lattice trellis in this situation made up of small squares. Rather, I would pick up on the horizontal lines of the house by constructing two upright sides between the windows with horizontal cross pieces placed about 15" apart, think ladder style. This would be stained the house color. Height of this ladder trellis will depend on your plant selection. Cady's weeping beech is an excellent choice. Also, the very upright common witch hazel (Hamamelis viginiana) would be easy to secure. The north side location limits plant choices.

If you decide to to espalier once the ivy is removed, contact me and I will walk you through the techniques. It is easy and fun.

While I don't disagree with Nandina about the firethorn's potential for doing damage with its spikey thorns, I do believe that when trellissed correctly, it will not do any harm to the house. This means using thick-enough battens or lathes for trellage so that the plant is kept away from the siding. As was already pointed out, ordinary thin-slat trellis is not the thing to use. For a longlasting, secure structure you do need a substantial frame, and potentially guy wire attached to the house with the pins typically used for traditional espalier. I have diagrams of this sort of structuring, and can recommend a couple of books that include it.

With a north facing exposure, firethorn may fare better than will beech. But beech is a bit easier to work with as it doesn't have thorns.