Hi dapper - Have you read through all the FAQ's here? They will be big help to you so I linked them below or you can just click on the link at the top of this forum's front page. You'll also want to read through many of the posts already here for even more info. The long stems ( called "leggy") are due to insufficient light. Do you have a light set-up ready to use? have read don't put any under lights from a flat and take the plastic cover off until all have sprouted. Not sure where you read this but all the seeds will never germinate at the same time. So once several of the seeds in the container begin to sprout you need to remove the humidity cover and put the container under the lights. You can also terminate the bottom heat at that time. Heat is used for germination only, not for growing on. Some of the remaining seeds will still germinate but if you wait for all or most to do so, the first ones are already way too leggy and you run the risk of developing damp-off (see FAQ) and killing the seedlings. The leggy ones will need to be transplanted deeply, to just below the bottom leaves, in another container - usually individual containers that you plan to use for growing them until ready to transplant to the garden. If you don't have cell-packs you can use small coffee or plastic drink glasses with drain holes punched in the bottom. Begin to ration the water now too - the soil can be allowed to lightly dry out between waterings - too little water is better than too much. ;) Give them 16-18 hours of light a day and keep the lights close to the plants. Once the plants begin to develop their true leaves you'll want to give them a mild feeding of a diluted 1/4 strength liquid fertilizer unless the potting mix you are using already has fertilizer in it. You'll find more details on all this in the FAQ's but if they don't answer a question for you be sure to let us know. ;) Enjoy your plants. Dave Here is a link that might be useful: Growing from Seed FAQ's

York_rose, I knew when I bought the 3 Salvia greggii Heatwave that they wouldn't make it in mailbox bed with winter snow from street but was going to try them further back where bed is very raised. I also knew intellectually that they were a long shot but my heart took over. If they bloom this year and I get to see some pretty color and flying beauties around them it'll be worth it. I can always try keeping them in pots since they're on the small side and overwinter either heeled in or in pot ghetto with bagged leaves all around. As far as the Daffodil foliage it would have to be the deer eating it as there weren't other critters out and about all winter. The deer hoof marks were also a sign it was them. Some foliage came up very prematurely last summer and they started in on it then and continued through winter. During a warm winter spell I sowed Larkspur seed under open top half of clear bottles (so seeds wouldn't float away or get eaten) and deer plucked up bottles and chewed them to hell. Of course those seeds & bottles were right in front of the yews they eat. A very long stretch of temporary 3-4' green rabbit fencing is going up this weekend around entire front garden and all the way around to side rose garden area. I have to give plants time to grow much less bloom. I'm starting Salvia rupestris from seed indoors figuring if it doesn't survive winter or dies to the ground it's a more realistic goal since I can sow each year. I might get a small pot of blue salvia that's annual here just for the blooms and pollinator attraction. agardenstateof_mind, I think I saw you post somewhere that you work at Deep Cut Park which is just up the road from my father's place. I've passed it many times during detours around construction on Middletown-Lincroft Rd. and as alternate to Rt. 35 north when I'm making a northward gardening swing to Home Depot, Lowes & Dearborn Farms. Dearborn Farms is expensive but they sometimes have things I can't find anywhere else locally. I need to get up there very soon to get Dot Pots for germinating some seeds. People at Breck's and other local places look at me like I have 2 heads when I ask for something that's not "Jiffy" although tons of people have great success with them. I too peeked under the mulch on all the perennials yesterday and this morning...without stepping into the beds. Most have tiny fresh growth at crown but I'm not touching anything for a couple weeks until I have to plant some Campanula I have buried in pots. Thought I read in the Press that you have some fencing to keep out deer and protect some of your gardens at Deep Cut. I'm jealous. :) Although it takes a lot of time to hand water in August-early Sept. I tend to see only the glorious blooms all around and momentarily forget about what died or was eaten. I've also ordered spring blooming bulbs by then so have something to look forward to in Fall...the mad dash to get them all in the ground before it's too late...LOL. Feeling hopeful today and will have to be satisfied with outdoor work of collecting downed branches & leaves, cutting up some downed trees and carting them closer to the street for pick-up in April. At least I'll be outside and get some exercise.

After pollination it takes 50 to 90 days for a pumpkin to mature. Whatever you do, don't cut leaves or the vine. It needs all the photosynthesis it can get. By the looks of the photo, I suspect your plant may be challenged to get enough direct sunlight. Yet it looks healthy and green, which says that it has received enough, up to this point. The only thing I can think of, to help it mature would be to somehow cover the plant with a clear plastic covered frame, later in the season, when nights begin to cool. Warmth speeds maturity. However: 1) You do not want to damage the vine, 2) You do not want to reduce its light and 3) building and placing such a structure would be both rather complicated and risky, in terms of potential damage to the vine. So, I would recommend that you just leave it be. You will know for sure, that the pollination took, when the little fruit grows. Within two or three days it should be twice as large as when you did the pollination. George Tahlequah, OK

Seed saving can be simple or complex depending on what you are growing and also what your goal is. If you want to save a specific variety, and keep the genetics intact, you may need to isolate the blossoms to prevent crossing with other varieties. Tomatoes are easy and mostly just self-fertile, and pretty forgiving about seed saving techniques. So you don't need to worry so much about another variety cross-pollinating with your toms. Lettuce is another easy one. Corn is wind pollinated, and pollen can travel 2 miles, so depending where you live, all sorts of things could blow in. Many root vegetables, such as carrots, are biennial, so you need to leave some of them them in the ground for a second season to get seed. There is a lot to learn, but if it's just for your own use and you aren't a perfectionist, you can experiment freely.