A slightly different perspective and why I hold it: If the decision to reuse container soils is an economic one, who can disagree with the decision? If you aren't concerned about expense and are willing to go to some minimal extra effort to build a good soil, that is what I would elect to do. Here's why: Container gardeners need to direct primary focus to insuring that the soil they are using will remain able to provide adequate air to roots for the expected life of the planting. Along with the ability of the soil to hold ample air, comes good gas exchange and drainage for rootage. All the other major cultural variables affecting growth are easily manipulated. Water, nutrients, sunlight, and to some degree, temperature can all be controlled easily. Aeration cannot and its consideration is as important as water and light to plant vitality. The breakdown or collapse of soil structure occurs at an exponential rate. If we imagine the usable life of a peat based container soil from a bag, it deteriorates from a reasonably good soil when fresh to unusable after 2 years. It's not unreasonable to expect the soil to lose at least 20-25% of its air holding ability by the end of the first growing season. In the first half of the second growing season, it will lose about another 25% of its air holding ability and in the second half of the second year, near total collapse is likely as the remaining 50% is lost. Though this is an example of an imaginary soil, it is very close to what actually occurs. Another way of saying it is: Even though a soil might be performing acceptably at the end of the first growing season, you should expect a rapidly accelerating collapse in the subsequent year. So, if you use a soil for 1 year and mix it 50/50 with a fresh, similar soil, 50% of the soil will have totally collapsed by the end of the growing season, and the other 50% will have lost about 25% of its ability to hold air. If a soil is not holding enough air, it's holding too much water. Water and air retention vary inversely in soils and when one increases, the other decreases. When soils hold too much water, you have to hope that the plant will use enough water or that enough water evaporates to prevent root rot issues and even minor cases of over-potting can mean terminal misfortune. Additional considerations are possible carry-over of fungal spores, the possibility/probability of insects in various stages (eggs, larvae, etc) and build-up of carbonate precipitates from your watering water. A slow soil will also have accumulated fertilizer salts and possibly insecticides that you may have applied and forgotten about last season. I suggest that used container soils be turned into the compost pile or garden and fresh soil used in its place unless monetary considerations prohibit. Al (tapla)

That is fine, but remember when you hang tomato plants, say from a 7' high structure, they will HAVE TO cascade. and some may reach down all the way to ground. UNLESS you are planting DWARFs. We are talking about hanging basket style not upside down which is a waste of time and efforts IMO. Another issue is the weight consideration. Probably a 5 gall. container is the only practical option. Even that, after the plant is fully grown, can weight quite a bit. Now if you want to hang several of them from the same structure, the poles and top has to be constructed from 4 by 4 lumber. In conclusion, it CAN BE DONE. But requires careful planning and lots of work plus materials. BTW: I will plant a few DETs inpots but I will keep them on the ground. Good Luch !

Good luck, just starting your first real garden is fun and challenging (and often humbling). I respectfully disagree with the book reading recommendations, it's Spring and it's time to get dirty and make mistakes and post your specific problems online to get advice now. Then after you know more about your interests and your problems, then it's time to read about propagating plants and the Soil Food Web and integrated pest management and all the other in-depth or broad topics. A couple of questions ans suggestions: Is your plot in the coastal fog zone or more inland? Cukes and melons are challenging along the coast and will always get powdery mildew, in my experience. Does your plot have access to composted manures or green waste? Digging in fully-finished compost in your beds before planting will add tilth and nutrients to the garden bed. Will you germinate in place or in containers, which are then transplanted? If you won't be able to get to your plot frequently, it could be easier to start seeds at home. But growing seeds in containers and transplanting is a slightly different skill set than caring for seeds germinated in place. Root crops like radishes and beets seldom transplant well, so those should always be germinated where you want them. Attached is a link to a good LA seed planting calendar. Everything you've listed, except cukes, can be started now and grown through what I expect to be a cool, foggy spring. Also, the Seed Exchange forum here at GW is worth browsing, many experienced gardeners have veggie seeds they are willing to give to gardeners just getting started. Here is a link that might be useful: SoCal seed calendar

They look fine to me. That is a really interesting way of growing tomatoes! I've done them in hanging baskets before and that works great as well. I can't think of any reason why you wouldn't get fruit. Make sure that you fertilize your tomatoes with either liquid fish fertilizer (follow dilution instructions) once a week or with liquid seaweed fertilizer once a week. What I actually do is use the two fertilizers alternately. (Fish one week, seaweed the next)