Substitute shredded pine for pine bark?
tjs2w
12 years ago
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oakiris
12 years agoRelated Discussions
Pine Bark Fines Substitute
Comments (4)If you don't wanna go broke, look for pine bark mulch. Pine bark fines does get funny looks, because most people haven't heard of that before. But, pine bark mulch comes in many different sizes, from chunky, regular shredded bark, to double shredded, or even triple shredded. I used to get mine from a nursury, in 2 cubic foot bags, for $5. It was great stuff, mostly fines, with some pieces that were bigger, that I just picked out. Unfortunately, they chose to stock huge flippin nuggets this year. So, I searched the web, and called ALL mulch suppliers who had pine bark mulch and asked about the size. I found one with double shredded, so I went this morning. It was just "ok", with quite a bit of larger, useless stuff, but also a LOT of fines mixed in. I filled two 55 gallon barrels for $12, and simply ran it through 1/2" hardware cloth to sort the fines out. I got about half of it as really nice fines, and the rest is going to be run through my mulching mower when mowing season is over (so I can sharpen the blades in spring). I will then put the shredded stuff in a pile to compost a bit until next year. By the way, it is in a pile right now getting started. Oh, and a tip, if you choose to go this route, you'll most likely be shoveling out of a large pile. If that's the case, shove the top away, and go for the stuff towards the bottom. Naturally, the rain pushes the finer stuff towards the bottom, and it starts decomposing, making it ideal for what you need. Joe...See MorePine Bark Mulch (Shredded) As Base For Container Plants
Comments (9)Pine bark is rich in lignin and the lipid suberin. Both resist the efforts of micro-organisms to cleave the hydrocarbon chains the bark is made of. Though heartwood and sapwood contain a fair amount of lignin, they are more cellulose than anything, and break down quickly, which causes N immobilization and a more rapid collapse of soil structure, not a desirable characteristic for bonsai. Other 'forest products' mixed into the bark can also be a problem. Hardwood bark can bring high soluble salts levels and a pH spike during the composting process, so using a product that is as close to 100% pine or fir bark as you can find is to be desired. I have ferreted out multiple sources for bark, so I have lots of options. I grow my short term plantings, like the garden display containers & veggies in a mix of 5 parts partially composted pine bark and one part each of sphagnum peat and perlite. I often find myself adding a little more perlite if the bark is very fine, but most have the opposite problem,. which is finding bark fine enough or bark that is partially composted. It's not necessary that the bark is partially composted; however, I just prefer it for it's water retention. For bonsai and all my long term plantings, I use equal parts by volume of Screened Turface Crushed granite - grower size, or #2 cherrystone and 1/8-1/4" fir or pine bark. Al The 5:1:1 mix I use is in the center here, fir bark at the top, and various other uncomposted pine products at 3,6,& 9: and this just lifted future bonsai is in the 1:1:1 gritty mix: Most people who look at the gritty mixture think you could never grow anything in it, but I guarantee that if you follow a few simple guidelines, that it will outperform (by FAR), peat/coir/compost-based soils. It's great for long term plantings like houseplants, cacti, succulents, trees, shrubs, because it retains it's structure and guarantees aeration indefinitely. The planting being root-bound is a factor long before the thought of soil collapse would even cross your mind. Al...See MorePine straw vs shredded bark mulch
Comments (4)There are pros and cons of each material. By the way, do you mean pine bark chips or the shredded wood that is a by-product of tree companies? (I've never heard of 'shredded' pine bark, is why I ask.) Anyway, there is no question that the wood product lasts much longer....pine bark can last for years without breaking down. Shredded wood decomposes faster than the bark, but will return more elements to the soil as it does so. Many of the tree companies are now using a different kind of chipper that creates very attractive little chips rather than that shredded stuff. Very nice looking. A real plus about the mixed wood chips is that they can often be had for free, as tree companies are very happy to find a place to donate their chips to, rather than pay to have them accepted into a landfill. This is my preferred mulching material, by far. Pine straw deteriorates quite rapidly in hot sun, first losing its color before it turns into dust. Pine straw needs to be obtained when it is fresh or the life span will be shortened even more. Pine straw adds organic compunds to the soil as it degrades, as do all of these materials, but they may be of limited value to the growing plants. Pine straw may need to be refreshed twice a year, which is a pain in the pocket book. Pine BARK lasts longest of all, since it is composed of lignins that even microorganisms can't break down. It maintains its color and consistency for a long time. My personal preferrance, after many years as a professional and now as a (fussy) homeower is the mixed wood chips from tree companies. One good application can last for up to three years before needing a top dressing, in my experience. Probably less in your climate. All three are great at buffering the soil from excessive heat, moisture loss, freezing temperatures, etc....See MorePine bark nuggets or pine bark mulch?
Comments (4)"just learned that I should be using pine or cedar based mulch." I guess my rhodies and azaleas aren't reading the same info. ;>) Seriously, though, as long as you aren't using hickory or Juglans (walnut and butternut), I don't have any idea why softwood would be an improvement over hardwood mulch. I use shredded hardwood because that's what is available to me low cost, and my Rhododendrons are just fine. Any shredded bark or natural wood based mulch will help retain moisture and slowly break down to add organic matter to the soil. Neither will appreciably change soil pH since that is pretty much determined by inorganic matter. So it's all good as far as I am concerned....See Moreoakiris
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