Old topic but wanted to share my input. I'm growing hydroponic tomatoes (various strains) at university in a lab setting (indoors under HID lights) and outdoors in a greenhouse. In one of my greenhouse NFT systems, i recently had a similar problem on 1 tomato plant (total 9 plants that share the same res and tubes). But im gonna try to diagnose your issue by mentioning what others missed out on. 1 major cause of leaf curl is compaction of root system (i.e. roots are compressed or dont have enough space to expand). This risk is exacerbated in hydroponic systems that use tubes. This was the problem i had and had to replace tubes with square tubings that have a liftable top. Once you have access to roots, you must seperate them strand by strand (i.e. so they arent sticking together). In your setup, this risk will further be exacerbated because you filled the entire pvc tube with hydroton (right?). Remove hydroton from tube and place the plant in a net cup with hydroton. Nitrogen burns usually cause browning/yellowing of leaves (similar to sun/heat burn) and not purpling. Test your solution for each chemical if possible, or use a commonly employed aggregated measuring device that shows total concentration in ppm (dont let it exceed 2500). In my system, only one plant was affected. Coincidentally, it was the largest of all plants with the most root mass. I let another normal one grow to its size to see whether it would undergo the same problem, and it did. Viral and bacterial infections that cause leaf roll usually cause it to roll up. Same with the physiological roll. If your leafs roll down AND if your stems bend, this is caused by a diminishing turgor pressure (read: not enough water reaching afflicted area). Mist several times when lights are off (no photosysnthesis) and observe increasing turgor pressure (unbending). Or, untangle roots and remove hydroton from from pipes. I tested various growing methods including fully and partially submerged roots. They all work but a submerged root cannot intake oxygen; it has to borrow oxygen from another part of the plant (i.e. a root part that isnt submerged or above ground stem). This requires energy for transportion and isnt the most efficient (optimal) way for growth and cellular processes. Lastly, an airstone in the reservoir is useless unless the reservoir is completely airtight all the way up to the plant holes. Better to keep small airstones in the pipes right under the plant roots. Those that say aerating the res prevents bacterial development.. is false. If you dont have air in res, you will get anaerobic bacteria (they grow/accumulate slowly but acidify the solution); if you have air in res, you get aerobic bacteria (not acidifying but grow extremely fast). Most bacteria prefer aerobic environments for optimum growth.

Calcium deficiency can be provoked by Magnesium excess, even when there is plenty of Ca around, you need to check out this possibility. You are using the percents on the label which makes perfect sense to a logical person, but industry enjoys exaggerating and confusing, or something like that. The N-P-K numbers are only for elements in the first case of N. P is "expressed as P2O5" and K as "K20" which inflates the phosphorus and potassium by adding some hypothetical oxygen that actually isn't in your hydroponic fertilizer. Don't ask why. No sense on reinventing the wheel, here's what Wikipedia has to say about this: The factors for converting from P2O5 and K2O values to their respective P and K elemental values are as follows: P2O5 consists of 56.4% oxygen and 43.6% elemental phosphorus. The percentage (mass fraction) of elemental phosphorus is 43.6% so elemental P = 0.436 x P2O5 K2O consists of 17% oxygen and 83% elemental potassium. The percentage (mass fraction) of elemental potassium is 83% so elemental K = 0.83 x K2O Nitrogen values represent actual nitrogen content so these numbers do not need to be converted. To convert 2.73% nitrogen to express as ppm when dissolved in water, just specify how much 2.73% fertilizer is in how much water. For 300 *grams* in 17 gallons, the ppms are estimated for the working solution by the weight of nitrogen/ weight of water. A gallon is 3785 grams. In this case 8.19g/64,345g = 0.0001273 To convert fractional part to parts per milliom (ppm) instead of percent, multiply by 1,000,000 instead of 100. That comes out to 127 ppm for N. P and K need to be adjusted by the factors mentioned to get the pure element and then calculated the same way. That's all I did. The absolute percentages in the fertilizer as you have them are not as relevant as their ratio to each other since a more concentrated fertilizer uses less weight of fertilizer to get to the same point. I do suspect that you have a nutrient problem though and my thinking base on the limited info is that there may be too much magnesium in there locking out potassium. That I got from the generalitities you've mentioned. However the symptoms as discussed sound more like nitrogen deficiency and there are no more limbs to go out on without real quantitative info and this will all make sense as you get into it more. For example, if the plants with more light are growing faster, they may have a greater nutrient demand and the plant may do what yours are doing by sapping nutrients from old growth to support and favor younger growth and reproductive tissue (tomatoes!). The last picture seems to be far more pronounced and not limited to the older growth though, not sure, the tones seem to be saturated in yellow (maybe on another monitor is shows up better but I have a cheapo monitor that freaks washing out with saturating colors) making it harder...

Those (eggs) look like psyllid nymphs to me, the actual eggs are very tiny and are often found hanging on the edge of leaves in a row, the "aphids" are the adult psyllid flies. I had nymphs on one leaf but they were on the underside of the leaf. Look at the thread that's titled "HELP! tomato problem solver" and then select the one that is from UC Davis for good info about this tough insect to battle. Also you could google pictures search for "Psyllid tomato" etc. Also use search feature on this website for psyllid, there are a few of us that have battled them. Those buggers are pretty nasty, the nymphs that are attached to the leaves inject toxins to your plant. Mine was attacked pretty young, I ripped off the leaf when I saw it and for at about a month my plant was pretty severely stunted. Has fruit all over it but I have pulled off the first four largest ones because they had brown spots more like the last pic than your #5 pic. I'm thinking my plant is finally recovered as is catching up to my other plants in size and becoming bushy, though time will tell if it will be strong enough/mature enough to produce good fruit. Anyway, looks like you have a few things going on here, your plants may be pretty stressed due to the toxin, leaving them more susceptible to the other blights and diseases right now. I would also take advice from others as I'm really a new gardener but I'll give you my two cents anyway. Also look at the problem solver for the TAMU problem solver and just look through all those pics and decide what you've got. For what it's worth, I would pull off all leaves with the scaly buggers on them. Check undersides of leaves carefully as well, though one gardener here has tried scrubbing the scales off instead of pruning, though I'm afraid scrubbing or scraping may damage leaves too so I would just prune as long as you don't have to defoliate your plant entirely. Also prune off the most diseased leaves and branches, then cull the bad fruit (it will probably get worse, be inedible and is sucking energy that your plant needs to use to recover). BTW, #5 looks like plain old BER to me but plant may just be stressed and immature to avoid it. Then spray entire plant and under leaves with insecticidal soap (search for insecticidal soap on this site for tips), it most likely won't get the nymphs off the leaves, that's why it's best to prune or manually remove the nymphs. The soap will get rid of adults and probably the eggs that are so hard to see. I think that the soap has to be washed off within a few hours, so do that. Then I would use Daconil spay (Ortho Garden Control, Chlorothalonil) per bottle instructions, don't wash off and don't spray your leaves for 4 or 5 days ....also, be careful as spray can burn so apply early evening may be best. If you are organic, you can also try Serenade...that's actually what I used but it looks like you have a tougher situation than what I had. Daconil is actually widely considered to be about the safest spray of this type so I have bought some myself to combat further issues. I would also buy some more mulch to get a really thick layer going and let them rest for a few days, keeping them moist of course, don't get the foliage wet with water at all if you can help it. After 4 or 5 days rest I'd feed them. I've been using a high-end commercial fertilizer from a local nursery but many here recommend the seaweed and fish fertilizer combo and I will probably move to that next year myself. You can mix those two (again search for what other people have discussed on this fertilizers here) and do both a foliar feed and a feed with their water. I wouldn't use Miracle Grow or Jobe's, just might be too risky and burn them or something. You shouldn't need to refertilze for a while, two week intervals maybe? I do 10 day intervals with my commerical stuff. Not sure what your soil and ammendments were like but I wouldn't fertilize much differently than you would ordinarily after you get the first round post-Daconil done. Anyway, I don't think from my limited experience that you have a bacterial problem so that's good news. I also don't think you've got the curly virus so that's also good. I think that the curling is just the stress, if you start to notice more problems with more severe curling you may indeed have it but I doubt it living where you do. I do think your plants will recover, they don't look that bad. You may need to make a $25-$30 investment to get the soap, daconil/serenade, mulch, fish, and seaweed ferts but those bottles should last you at least through next year too since you only do a few plants. (don't know shelf life of organic ferts though) I buy the full-strength and dilute per instructions, much better value. Good luck and hopefully others will have suggestions. This is just mine from what I've done and would certainly repeat if I go to battle with the nymphs again.

I believe that there is a big misunderstanding here, as you are lumping tomato yellow leaf-curl begomovirus and tomato yellow leaf curl virus into the same thing. These are two different viruses. Ms. Pfaff is correct: there are no varieties available to home or commercial gardeners for Tomato Yellow Leaf-Curl Begomovirus (or to those of us that study pathology, Sarania). This is a disease that was first found in about 2002/2003 and is a 'newer' strain of the original Tomato Yellow Leaf Curl Virus. It is a small problem for a large grower, but I highly doubt a home gardener would have it. As Ms. Pfaff mentioned, using resistant varieties for other diseases would keep plants healthy enough to combat Sarania if it should strike. What I think you guys are talking about in this thread and getting rather confused on is there good old Tomato Yellow Leaf-Curl Virus. This has been around since forever and any seed company that carries hybrid tomatoes has a tomato that will be resistant to it. The varieties listed above are good examples. The way that Tomato Yellow Leaf-Curl Virus morfed into Toamto Yellow Leaf-Curl Begomovirus is linked to insecticide resistance in the whitefly. The white fly acts as a vector to transmit the disease from plant to plant through it's sucking mouth parts. Initially, farmers treated their viruses by taking out the flies. As the flies built resistance, the virus transcribed into a more virulent form. Thus, it is now a begomovirus. I applaude Ms. Pfaff for being up on her information. GMO varieties for Bego-resistance have only been on the market for a couple years. Quentin, PhD in Plant Pathology and Tomato Breeder working on non-GMO Bego-resistant tomato varieties