The lily bulbs sold commercially usually bloom the first year. They do get bigger and taller the second year. Forced bulbs are started earlier indoors, not compelled to grow faster. Even so, the effort exhausts them and they often won't bloom for a couple of years after that. Successful gardening involves learning how to cooperate with nature, not subjugate it. This fall, plant some spring-blooming bulbs to keep you happy till your lilies bloom. Janet who loves lilies too and has about 40 of them. Janet's Garden

Some things will be faster in containers, than plants, that are grown in the ground, and some will be slower. It depends on a lot of factors, like what type of plant, your climate, how stressed it is etc. The type of pot, also has a lot to say.... a white pot will keep the soil cooler than a black pot. A plastic pot will keep moisture better than a clay pot, but the clay pot gives better aeration for the roots. Lettuce in a black pot without mulch, would probably bolt a lot earlier, than lettuce in a mulched white pot, so FAST does not always equal BETTER. Yes, you can prolong your growing season, by using different plants at different times. Fast growing things like radishes, can be grown next to a slower plant early in the season, until the slow plant starts filling out the space. Just be sure to remove the radishes (or whatever your first crop is) before the "main" plant needs its space - even if it is not yet ready for harvest (it CAN happen)! Then later in the season, you can grow a plant, that grows well in the cooler weather. Many lettuces and Asian greens are good for this purpose. Personally I'm planning to grow mizuna, once the tomatoes are about to be done for the season. VG

Dig is right, guys around here have just gotten to planting soybeans, and some fields are as much along as 2 weeks, but that's the earliest beans for us this year. Beans don't like wet feet (soggy soil for long periods) and they won't tolerate frost or cold temps. So most people wait until conditions are better than the cruel April to plant beans. For higher bean yields try an inoculant. It's not necessary, but it is said to help dramatically. All legumes fix their nitrogen through the air, like dave said, beans have nodules on their roots where a couple different types of bacteria can "invade" the roots, and convert atmospheric N to a form of ammonia that the plant can use. I haven't used one yet, mostly because I'm afraid that I'd be up to my neck in green beans, but I'm gonna try it next year. I planted my beans 2 weeks ago, and they are just sort of plodding along.

I googled this, but it seems extreme. I know I got a few to sprout a couple of years ago, and probably just stuck them in peat pots, on the window sill, because thats how I was doing everything then. 1 Heat water to 140 degrees F in a small container that can hold hot water without cracking or melting. Use a cooking thermometer to verify the temperature. 2 Add sensitive plant seeds to hot water. Since the germination rate is very low, use 20 seeds if you want one plant to grow. Soak in hot water for 20 minutes. The water can cool over this period of time. It does not need to stay at a constant 140 degrees F. 3 Prepare the growing medium by adding potting soil to the planting container until the planting container is full of potting soil. Soak the potting soil with water and let drain. 4 Remove the sensitive plant seeds from the hot water bath and place onto the surface of the potting soil. Press the seeds gently into the potting soil but do not cover. Sensitive plant seeds need light to germinate. 5 Set in a warm place (70-75 degrees F) with bright light but not direct sunlight. The sensitive plant seeds should germinate in 20-30 days. After the seedlings have two sets of true leaves, set in an area that receives about 4 hours of sunlight each day and begin a weekly fertilization program with a water soluble fertilizer diluted to half-strength.