Can you overwinter your dahlias in the ground in your zone - or do you have to lift them? If you must lift to prevent frost damage then you might be safer to put them into a bed of perennials rather than shrubs to make that task a lot easier. It's late winter here, nearly early spring. I went out today on the thought that I hadn't seen any hint of the snowflakes (Leucojum). There were plenty of leaves and not a single flowerstalk when I looked. A nearby Rhododendron has increased its territory. The snowflake has put its leaves up through the branches - but that's all. If I had planted into grass, or under deciduous trees it would have been fine, but the low-growing shrub looks to have prevented proper ripening/bud formation. Conversely, I have some species tulips which are never lifted. They live in the company of a perennial 'angelica' and some thuggish pineapple sage, both of which are down when they're up and provide useful summer cool for the tulip bulbs. And one shrub which is good company for bulbs for me is Chimonanthus praecox - wintersweet - perhaps because it's tall enough not to be swamped by the foliage. Too, the roots are deep enough to not be bothered by my periodic lifting of bulb colonies. It might not be true in your location but bulbs can multiply very rapidly into a lovely mat of green with very few flowers. In fact - it might be useful to plant the shrub outline first - with spaces for your bulbs - and work it that way, including some vital stepping places so you can feed, prune, mulch, lift, whatever. Whichever way you go you can guarantee that the shrubs will probably win the battle for territory because they'll create a change in the ecology and light patterns. As that happens, it's time to start making a new bulb patch....

Cindeea thank you for your sweet words. Ok I was able to get a couple better pictures so it shows the true colors but IâÂÂm still trying to figure out if it is a Belladonna that is doubled or if it is another variety totally.

josh, In the Russian people There is a saying: a judge who? This is me to the fact that the questioner can not objectively judge whose answers are correct. Because Mongoose20 said nothing, then I'll tell. About "cold hardy".In your language has two terms: the cold hardy and frost hardy. Although they are close in value (their semantic overlap area), but it is not identical concepts. Example: papillio. He cold hardy but not frost hardy. Indeed, in the words of the difference is small, does not it? Same with tatsetta Daffodills, they are much more cold hardy than papillio, but not frost hardy. Therefore, they do not recommend them for conditions of Canada as not cold hardy but must specify the right - not frost hardy. 2. On the crosses. Tacetta differ from other daffodils number of chromosomes. Therefore, long been known that even if hybrids with other groups of daffodils succeed, they sterile. And what is the point to repeat the work of breeders of the last century, when it has reached an impasse. It is because of the sterility of these hybrids. But hybrids between varieties tacetta daffodills is generally fertile. Finally, another our people proverb: If you, Uncle, do not know - and then do not say.

Dan there is no such thing as stupidity when it comes to garden queries. Paper whites are early bloomers.They tend to bloom just a few short weeks after planting. 5-6 in my experience. The instructions were correct. However, they should have warned about early blooms. I too learned this the hard way. Many people grow paper whites indoors so they can enjoy the fragrance over winter. Personally, I plant mine in Late November for early blooms. I also plant some indoors for delightful Christmas time fragrance. When I want them to come up in the ground in the spring with my muscarii, daffodils and hyacinths I plant them in late December. They are always the first to bloom