hard bulb science to back up conventional bulb wisdom?

15 years ago

I'm sure this has been dealt with, but perhaps not quite with this angle...

I know conventional wisdom and common sense dictates leaving bulb leaves alone after they bloom, to replenish and build for the next year. But, does anyone know ... is there any hard science behind this? Have any studies been done comparing bulbs with and without leaves cut down? Hopefully there are some professional hortIculturists out there who can shed light on this.

Experienced gardeners out there, please weigh in with your anecdotal experience, too!

I have a very small garden, and am thinking of doing away with daffodils altogether, in favor of shorter (albeit less dramatic) bulbs. I could just 'cede the franchise' to the rock iris and chionodoxa and some others that behave better. Two months of waiting for daffodil leaves to wither and die drives me crazy and clutters everything up in my very limited space.

Of course, you can "overplant" daffodils and other bulbs with hostas and the like, and I do -- for much of the area. But is there really any difference between letting hostas, etc., smother bulb leaves and just chopping them down?!?

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (5)

Chemocurl zn5b/6a Indiana
15 years ago
and am thinking of doing away with daffodils altogether,
Oh my...I can't imagine life without any daffodils. They are one of the most, if not the most exciting spring things.

Taken from the link below:
Don't cut, braid, tie, or reduce the surface area of the foliage in any way, though. For the health of the bulb, these chlorophyll-laden surfaces must be allowed to photosynthesize until the bulb goes dormant.

Sue

Here is a link that might be useful: Problem Solvers
0
fmogul
Original Author
15 years ago
Yes, I know the conventional wisdom -- just wondering if it's been tested. Think about it: that same website also suggests the other conventional wisdom, overplanting with hostas, etc. WHAT's the difference? Am I missing something? Don't these totally contradict each other?

I have a whole lot of daff's who've been foliage- and photosynthesis-free for weeks now, thanks to the hostas. Every place else look like a mess, because I planted so many daff's. Would they really be worse off than the hosta-squashed ones, if I just cut them down?

That's why I'm looking for scientific data. I'm sure someone's tested this and looked into it. It's a huge industry, and there are lots of universities where researchers do all kinds of things like this.

But, again, I'd also be interested in the anecdotal knowledge of good, systematic 'amateur' gardeners, too!
0
Related Discussions
You guys were right about ordering spring bulbs
Q
Comments (20)
Ditto! George, you and donnabaskets gave some great tips about digging the holes early. And here I was like a dope out digging in January, lol! Of course, I *had* the bulbs in October... I just never got around to planting them then. It's not like I knew I was going to get some late bulbs in. I just kept putting it off until it got too cold. Lucky for me we had some warm weather in January, and I decided to give it a shot! :) Dee
...See More
How Deep Should Bulbs Be Planted ?
Q
Comments (31)
Frank, quite honestly, I think the best answers will come from some of Al's writings. He should have a thread floating around the Container Gardening Forum about fertilizing, and I know he recommends Foliage Pro, which has all the essential nutrients and micro-nutrients plants need. I remember he once wrote a piece about the specialized fertilizers and bloom boosters, revealing that even the manufacturers know many of the hyped products are just gimmicks. I think the quote was something like... and I'm paraphrasing, here... "it's easier to give the public what they think they need than it is to reeducate them." Personally, I water with a diluted solution of fertilizer all year round... the reason being, the more inorganic mediums we use don't contain or hold onto much nutrition. Therefore, I offer a buffet-like environment to my plants, ensuring a constant supply of food in a low dose, and they take what they need. Because I'm flushing them every time through thorough watering, and watering more often than I would be if I used a peat based medium, what's in the pot is constantly exchanging... out with the old, in with the new. Over winter, I water with the weakened fertilizer water 3 out of 4 times... on the 4th watering, I flush with clear water. I mix it at about 1/4 strength. I keep resting bulbs a little drier than ones in full growth mode, too. But when I see new growth, I go back to the regular "schedule"... and I put schedule in quotes because the only schedule is giving my plants what they need, when they need it. There is no actual schedule, like watering once a week whether they need it or not, or something... that's how my Mom used to water her houseplants, and she killed more plants than anyone I know! I don't know if this helps you, Frank... but I would absolutely go take a peek at what Al recommends.
...See More
Moving bulbs and things
Q
Comments (4)
The difficulty with moving daffodils in the fall is finding them! My information says that you can cut daffodil foliage after 3 months. I have also moved them in bloom by cutting off the bloom and moving the plant. HAD to move or destroy. The difficulty is getting the daffodil up without destroying the roots as they are so deep. I use a sharpshooter shovel and dig a 8" hole beside the daffodil then come in from the side of the plant and dig under the daffodil in one push and lift up through the hole you dug. I get all the roots usually, pack with others in a bucket to reduce moisture loss before I begin the planting process. The best way to plant is with the daffodil auger at Lowe's in a half inch drill,(grind the shaft into a triangle as the drill "eats" it up). I cut five 3" holes in a piece of plywood and drill all these at the same time, you lose no dirt at all in the grass. If you want to wait till fall, collect the 1/2" strap on packages, cut into short lengths and put a 16p nail through it into the soil. You can even mow over it. The seed companies say you can move daylilies at any time.
...See More
UPDATE: Now Cut That Out! (bulbs and cuttings swap) #9
Q
Comments (150)
Kim - Won't have them for the summer swap, but I'll have plenty of all blue and all red to share, come the fall or spring swap. Plus Purple Majesty. Just remind me when it comes around. After the swap my initial shipment came in so my garden is like a forest of spuds. I ended up with 5 lbs of seed spuds in all blue. I'll also have LOADS of J-chokes if anyone wants any. We're still keeping you and hubby in our prayers. Stay strong! Doors are opening and I pray they bring a miraculous outcome...I know it's hard....but know you have many here pulling for the two of you. Wanted to post a quick update. As I've been posting, I've been experimenting with the grape cuttings, to see how late they would root. I've been told they have to be taken in the late fall or winter and I've been told they won't root any time but early Spring, before they come out of dormancy, so I decided to prove that to myself....I took a few cuttings on Easter, April 12th and they have rooted beautifully, but also took cuttings on April 26th and they are beginning to root like crazy too. I'm not sure, at this point, what kind of success rate the 26th cuttings will have, but they are beginning to shoot roots everywhere. Had a 9-1 rate with the 12th cuttings, so I'll keep track of the 26th cuttings. This was the bagging method AND I pinched off any larger leaf growth to force energy back down in the stem. They are now starting new leaf growth. Did the same with some new kiwi cuttings. Had to pinch out new growth from the kiwis, but they appear to be pushing roots. I don't know the success rate, but they all look good so far. I'll post again when I know. Oh bless her heart, I was in a swap with another GW'r and she sent me some REALLY Special cuttings. She started them before she sent them, so I walked her through the process, but she did such a great job! When I received the packages of cuttings, one of the cuttings already had roots over 1/4 inch long. If that isn't just amazing!!!!!!!! I love cuttings!!!!!!! I'M HOOKED!!!!!! THANK YOU FOR OPENING THIS DOOR MARK!!!!! If a new thread is opened I'll post some more pics... Oh I want to see more pics of others roots and successes. If anyone needs help posting pics, please let me know, it's very easy, I'd be happy to help. Toni
...See More
duluthinbloomz4
15 years ago
Science can sometimes get in the way of things we'd like to do, but if you have a whole lot of daffs - do your own "science" and cut down the foliage on a patch of them, mark the patch with a little tag or something, and see what comes up next season. If they come back as good as the ones left to go through their normal die-back routine, you've proven - at least to yourself in your particular growing conditions - that the bulbs suffered no harm in the short run. Doing this for several years in a row might find your bulbs shrinking away to the point that eventually nothing comes up.

This is probably one of the tests the experts at the Universities have tried in assembling their body of knowledge. Digging up and measuring the size of the bulbs that have had the foliage prematurely cut against bulbs that have not would be another test.

If you're familiar with Google - type in cutting daffodil foliage and sift through over 100,000 hits explaining the benefits of both science and convention. The science has been done and it's out there.
0
trish_ca
15 years ago
Why don't you plant them in pots? Then after the bloom you can move the pots to an out of the way place and you won't have to look or deal with the foliage. Just a thought...
0
ego45
15 years ago
I could attest to the statement that daffodils foliage being covered by hosta leaves (for several years on a row) SIGNIFICANTLY diminish their blooming ability.
Row of 10 small 1-2 eyes divisions of hosta albomarginata and clumps of 10-12 daffs, 100 total in between were planted in a fall of 2004.

Every year hostas were increasing in size but blooming ability of daffs was gradualy decreased to the point that in May of 2008 I saw maybe 10 flowers from all this row.
Daffs will be dug and relocated in a fall.
0

hard bulb science to back up conventional bulb wisdom?

Comments (5)

Chemocurl zn5b/6a Indiana

fmogul
Original Author

Related Discussions

duluthinbloomz4

trish_ca

ego45

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

hard bulb science to back up conventional bulb wisdom?

Comments (5)

Chemocurl zn5b/6a Indiana

fmogulOriginal Author

Related Discussions

duluthinbloomz4

trish_ca

ego45

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

fmogul
Original Author