Very lightly watered once they go dormant only when they seem dry ..they will likly be frozen solid at least part of the time anyway if it is a cold winter ...what size containers are these in.??..if really small you may want to move 'em up to a bit larger ones after dormancy ... I would probably keep them potted next summer and do the same next fall and plant out the following year but you can see how much they grow and have a good feel next late spring whether you should plant out. Both are pretty hardy...the Oridono surprisingly so...So you made great choices just a bit small but then they likely didn't cost an arm and leg either and keeping them in pots is kind of fun by the time you plant them out you will likely have changed your mind on location a dozen times and maybe have a dozen more larger ones...JM's are an addiction... but I think if they are in a small pot I'd put them in a bigger one to give them more insulation for the winter ( unheated grarage BTW)Others may have overwintered stuff in small pots and give differnt advise, I have not, and am a bit uneasy about it David

This is a complex situation! Just got through dealing with this last week, and the questions of whether or not to cover, what to cover, and how to cover are part of the annual ritual (unfortunately) for me. A few words of advice: 1. Covering can be a royal pain, especially with large trees in windy weather. It can damage branches unless you create a nice structure around the tree to support the plastic. 2. It rarely causes miracles (i.e. saves all of a crop). More often people think it worked, but the trees would have fruited without any help anyway. 3, Using plastic, NOT some bed sheet or porous "frost blanket", plus a heat source underneath (light bulb, heater, etc…) is essential. 4. Remember that Euro plums can take 23 degrees F during the latter stages of flowering and fruit set and still produce something (albeit 10% of crop), especially if the weather is windy and/or cloudy at the time. 5. Clear plastic should be at least partially removed before sunny weather the next day to avoid overheating (maybe this is just me being cautious in my ultra sunny climate). So, to sum up… if you think it really will get down into the low 20's, covering the right way may save some fruit, but it will take special care and a good bit of work. In many cases it is better to just cross your fingers and hope for the best! In case you're interested, the temp hit 18 degrees at my house one night last week. With three individual trees (dwarfs) covered, and a makeshift 15 foot "hoop house" covering a scattering of closely planted fruit trees, I managed to save the odd blossom of nectarine, sweet cherry, and Euro plum. Anything not covered was completely killed, except for the smallest unopened apple buds. The hoop house did not save anything at all, even though I used an electric space heater inside it, while the smaller more successful covering had only light bulbs for heat. Sorry for the length of this, whew!

Did you read the product label? It is primarily sesame oil, so yes, quite safe to eat - many Asian cuisines use sesame oil extensively. Also has some fish oil included and that might flavor the taste of the skin on developing fruit but should wash off. You do wash your fruit before eating.......??? It is important to understand the disease and its progression to know when and how to treat. Read up on the gymnosporangium rusts - there are several different ones and they affect only certain plants in the rose family but not roses themselves. Horticultural oils - and plant or animal derived oils are included in this grouping - are only moderately effective against these sorts of fungal organisms. You would do better using a registered fungicide at the appropriate time, usually from bud break until the spring weather warms sufficiently. And these are only protective or preventative measures. Once the disease has manifested in the tree, it is too late to do much about it this season. It won't kill the tree but may cause some leaf drop and possible. The fruit itself should be unaffected except for perhaps some skin spotting. The best control is to select and plant disease resistant varieties and to remove any nearby host plants - junipers (often commonly called cedars).

I have power washed my driveway and I want to power wash my back yard, when I use it sometimes the dirt comes on me and the walls near by. I want to protect the nearby walls. My walls are recently painted, how should I protect them. What kind of plastic and tape I should use ?