The plants would be crammed if you use the troughs you've suggested which would stunt the plants growth overall. Then, when you put them in the ground, they would have to recover before they could begin to grow. I suggest you do yourself a favor. "gift" those plants to someone then wait until you move to obtain more which will go directly into the ground. Here's some info about growing blueberries successfully: http://ir.library.oregonstate.edu/xmlui/bitstream/handle/1957/12202/ec1304.pdf Here is a link that might be useful: growing blueberries

When you think about it, bare roots are traditionally harvested in Wasco in late December, perhaps very early January, depending upon the weather that year. They are stored in coolers, processed and sent out to whomever purchases them. I know Otto & Sons one year bought bare root Icebergs from J&P as late as early April as they ran through their entire stock of the variety and J&P still had 'dormant' plants in their coolers. That means those plants can be stored for three, four, perhaps more, months before actually being put into soil. They are 'dormant', but that does not mean they are not using resources...stored nutrients and water. It's at a significantly reduced rate, but their cells continue processing those nutrients to remain alive. The best storage is as close to, but above freezing, as possible with high humidity to prevent the plants from either being triggered into growth or drying out. Compare that to sitting on a store's shelf in body bags of drying out saw dust, under bright lights; or, as I have seen many times, sitting on tables under shade cloth in warm sun; warm, dry wind, being handled, scraped and bumped until either dumped or "rescued". By that time, many have leafed out and some even attempted to flower. Once they are exposed to warmer temps and bright light, the auxins and hormones begin to form, stimulating them to increase their cellular activity, grow leaves, use resources faster, trying to grow. I'm sure many of us have experienced cuttings exploding into growth, leaves and even flowering, only to collapse because they have no roots. The same thing happens to bare roots very easily. Warm and bright generates leaves and flowers. Cool, damp and dark stimulates root growth. I'm more surprised as many bare roots are planted the way many are and they GROW, instead of dying back or outright failing. Heeling them in or giving them a good soak to replace the water they have used, or lost from being held in too dry conditions is obviously the best procedure to follow. Mounding the canes after planting to reduce the amount of green canes exposed to warm, dry air and bright, hot sun until there are leaves being pushed; keeping the bud union damp, dark and cool until the plant is actively growing, produces some of the finest results. Now, add those which hate being dried out such as Peace, Angel Face, Sterling Silver and many others with strong Foetida back grounds. Is there much wonder why so many of those types are such rotten plants? Kim

Yeah linnea56 give them a little more time. Hell, give them until next spring. I don't have experience with Dicentra bare roots but I do have two dicentras: one I planted, one came with the house. Both have grown to be massive in size. The one that was original to the house got rolled on by one of my dogs - the following year it didn't grow too much during the growing season but this year has come back in full force. I grew a few ferns from bareroots last year. A few never sprouted anything until THIS year which is why I say give until next spring if you can

I would keep them in shade and cooler. Roots probably have enough moisture to last for a while since you washed them. If for more than few days, maybe you can lay a sheet of kitchen towel over the roots and spray it with little water. Over all, they should be OK for a while without soil or water. More drainage holes - better. 2-4 per pot perhaps? Glazed ceramic pots - they won't breathe same as terracotta would, so I would put in more. In general, succulents don't have huge roots, many recommendations I have seen are not much more than 1-2" wider than root ball - that is sometimes hard to determine. If you keep the mix very well draining, they could be potted in larger pots because there would be less chance of overwatering it than moisture retentive mix. And think of aesthetics - small plant in huge pot probably won't look that pleasing.