Shic,

I'm just starting out with these myself. I posted a question about them on "The Cutting Garden" forum and someone named Trish wrote back a very informative response.

I'm in Zone 8. My seedlings are outside. I really don't know how to answer your question about what to do with your seedlings except to suggest that you can grow them indoor for a while, but you'd probably need some growing lights unless you have a very bright window with /full sun/Southern or Southwestern exposure.

Good luck, and don't forget to check the respone to my post at the The Cutting Garden Forum.

Well this is so funny. I just stopped by here to lurk and I usually hang out in the winter sowing forum. I winter sowed Chabaud carnations outside at the beginning of January and they sprouted January 21st! They have been outside growing in a plastic zip lock baggie ever since. I am in Zone 6 in PA. They have been doing fine. They are Perennials and although they are still very tiny seedlings I hope they stay OK. The baggie has drainage holes in the bottom and is filled with wet potting soil and I leave the top partially open for aeration. I plan to leave them outside. I didn't know people only grew them for one season.

Thank you for the information. We are zone 4a - 4a. If they are not frozen solid outside, they will be under foot-deep snow. So I have to do this indoors.

Hi shic 2006,

I'm in zone 6/7 (depending on how harsh the winters are) and I always sow my Carnations inside under fluorescent lights. A bright SOUTH-FACING window will be okay as long as the window is not obstructed in any way. The plants WILL get somewhat leggy. This will be NORMAL considering the growing conditions.

Now to answer some of your questions:

I dont know if I should remove the film now. I dont want the small seedlings to dry up. I never planted them indoors before. I know they love full sun.

If the seeds have started to sprout then you should remove the plastic film. I would water the pots from the BOTTOM by setting the pots in a tray (or another container) filled with water. After the surface of the soil becomes damp, remove the pots from the water. DO NOT allow the pots to sit in the water. If possible make sure the surface of the soil dries out slightly (it will look lighter!) before watering again. This will prevent damping off--something which kills young seedlings.

I dont know if it is feasible to keep them as indoor potted plants.

The plants seedlings probably won't FLOWER while inside, but the early start means that you should have flowering plants OUTSIDE by mid-late July.

Do realize that you will have to harden off the seedlings before planting them outside. This involves adapting the seedlings gradually to the outside "climate" in late Spring. If well hardened off the Carnations should actually be able to handle a light frost. The plants can also be planted a little earlier than some other plants (Marigolds, Petunias, etc.)

I also would like to know why people only use them for the first year. Do they produce few flowers after the first year?

I've never heard that before. I do find that it is EASIER (at least for ME, others may have a different opinion) to start new plants each year. I have had the occasional Carnation plant return, but only AFTER a mild winter or if the plant is grown in a somewhat protected area.

If you can protect the plants from the late EVENING sun during hot days later in the summer the plants should perform well for you.

My best Carnations are grown in pots or hanging baskets. That way I can enjoy the heady fragrance up close without crawling around on the ground.

How to make their flowers larger?

To get larger flowers you can try what is called "disbudding." This is a TEDIOUS process (At least to me, but years ago I worked at nursery and we had to do this to Chrysanthemums grown for Mother's Day) which involves removing ALL but the top bud that forms on each stem. This should be done VERY early and MANY times I've broken off the top bud trying to get the little side buds removed. (Disbudding is also done by many rose growers to who exhibit the roses for rose shows.)

I've grown a Carnation variety from Park Seed called Spice Drops. This variety cascades and produces very large (larger than the Chabaud varieties that I've grown) flowers in all the regular Carnation colors. The plants work GREAT in baskets, too.

Hope this isn't too much information. (grin)

Happy Growing,
Chris

Wow, great! Thank you very much, Chris. Clearly, you are a master of Carnations.

I try to avoid putting them in my yard because we unfortunately have human thieves, bunnies and squirrels. I dont know if they care about the "cheap" flowers. I intend to put them into hanging baskets outside my South and West facing windows. The air will be a bit dry. I dont know if they want high humidity or not.

Hi shic 2006,

Glad I could help.

When the plants are starting to flower high humidity may NOT be a good thing--if it can be avoided.

Most heavy petaled flowers tend to "ball" (seal across the top of the bud when the air is very humid/damp) and then don't open properly, if at all. You will find that usually only the flowers with a velvet-like texture will "ball." Think deep reds and dark pinks........

(Roses, which can have velvety textured petals, are NOTORIOUS for doing this in damp coastal climates and summers where the humidity skyrockets in July and August.)

I forgot to mention, too, that while the seedlings are inside the Carnations should be grown on the "cool" side, if possible. I try to never let the temperature go over 80 degrees when I'm growing the seedlings inside.

This may NOT be possible since you will need the plants to get as much light as possible. If the plants/seedlings (JUST the Carnations) are near a window that can be opened you can reduce the temperature somewhat by leaving the window open slightly (or wider, depending on the temperature) to keep the growing temperature cooler.

Note that not all seedlings like cooler temperatures so if you are growing anything else near the Carnations those seedlings/plants may NOT like the cooler air or the draft from the window.

The hanging baskets may look sparse at first due the nature of the Carnation's growth habit, which is spindly and tends to sprawl. This habit lends itself well to containers and baskets.

I try to cut the flowers often to keep the plant producing flowers AND to help the plants to branch, resulting in fuller plants.

Good Luck,
Chris

Thank you very much for telling me the relationship between humidity and "flower boll". I am in Zone 4a-5a. The temperature seldom goes above 65 indoors. I am a bit concerned about the cold. The nights could be in the 40s. Also, I was told to remove the plant tops when they are 6 inches tall. Later when the side-growths reach 5-6 inches, I should remove another 50% of the new tops. Your advice seems to confirm that.