My guess is, that what goes around the southern France, Italy or Greece, will also go in that space. Hot summers and cold, but still rather mild winters. Stuff like Bourgonvilla might die down in the winter, but would perk right back up, in the spring! Stuff that goes outside, but has a short blooming period out there, might get a longer period inside (how does the smell of moonflowers from early July to mid November sound to you?). Eucalyptus might die down the first couple of winters, but will in time get very strong and tall. I think a bay-leaf would do well year round. Peaches and grapevines would do great as well, no doubt about that. Figs too. Passiflora actinia and caerulea plus some of the hybrids can withstand down to -8c/ 18f. I÷m envious!

I hope with the lettuce, cabbage and broccoli you are starting with seedlings and not seeds since it already is so late. Advice? Read the OSU Garden Planning Guide I've linked below and then come back and ask us the questions you need answered. In that guide, you'll see planting dates given as a range of dates like this: April 10 - April 30. The earliest date given is for southeastern OK and the latest date given is for northwestern OK so, depending on where you live in the state, choose some planting date in between those two extremes....unless you actually are in SE OK or NW OK. Tomatoes need to be planted as trannsplants and it really is too late to start them from seed now to grow your own, so it would be better to purchase tomato plants to put into the ground. All the others that you listed can be direct-seeded, and we are getting very close to the earliest recommended planting date for sweet corn. To the extent that you can, try to plant everything on-time or even a week or two early if the weather permits. With cool-season crops and some heat-sensitive warm-season crops, even planting them a couple of weeks later than the recommended dates can significantly impact your harvest in a negative way. That is especially true if we have a roasting-hot summer like we had last year. Finally, it all starts with the soil. In order to have a good garden, you need good soil. The best seeds and the best transplants in the world will not perform well if you have poor soil. Dawn Here is a link that might be useful: Oklahoma Garden Planning Guide

That happened to mine when I first got it too. It's a tight fit, so the knob is probably a little stuck. Try this: On the knob for the burner that's stuck, pull out the knob. Now look at the bezel that's screwed onto the range. That's the part that has the red line. I think that gets jarred during shipping. See if you can move it up or down a little. The center of that bezel might be a little out of line so it's rubbing against the knob stem. Try that and report back. Also, instead of unplugging the range, just pull out the knob and replace it. You'll probably see the tight fit I'm talking about. Readjusting the knob should stop clicking. If you don't want to try what I suggest yourself, give Capital a call in the morning. Mine is fine now after I realigned the knob assembly.

First, in case you didn't know there is a Balcony Gardening forum here http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/balcony that could be really helpful to you as it is a very different form of gardening. Then, since you will be using containers, also be sure to check out the Container Gardening forum here http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/contain as that too is a very different form of gardening with different requirements. While I agree that gardening is trial and error activity in part you can save you self a lot of time and effort by first learning from others and so avoiding all the common errors new gardeners make. With balconies two biggies come to mind -(1) not nearly enough sun exposure due to the roof or floor above. South facing is often not enough. And (2) sometimes severe water draining problems for those who live below you every time you water. Since containers have to drain well that water has to go somewhere. So be sure to thoroughly explore those issues upfront. Then with containers the common mistakes are (1) using containers that are too small and/or too shallow. (2) filling those containers with dirt rather than a quality soil-less potting mix and that creates all sorts of problems. The potting mix is expensive so starting out with just a couple of containers instead of umpteen of them not only let's you learn as you go but also saves you a lot of wasted money. And (3) not understanding the very different feeding and watering regimens required for successful container gardening. So with your proposal I see a couple of issues. First, snowpeas as a container crop - take lots of room for minimal production and the trellis will shade the other plants so I'd suggest sipping them. Plus they have very different nutrient needs than broccoli and spinach. Put the broccoli and spinach in the same container as they are high nitrogen users and peas won't tolerate high nitrogen. Second, both basil and dill will need a much bigger container than 1 gallon. They are very tall plants with big root balls. Third, as already mentioned I think there are much less expensive and better functional containers available than the ones you have linked. Not that i am recommending them but for the price of 1 of your linked boxes you could buy 5 of these and have almost 3x the planting space. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-15-in-x-7-99-in-Plastic-Leonardo-Black-Bronze-Window-Box-WB100F-BB/203621275 Just some thoughts to consider. Enjoy your planning. Dave