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Orchid - Roots vs. Stems?

16 days ago

last modified: 16 days ago

I received an orchid as a gift about a year ago and I transplanted it about a month or so ago. I cut the stems back just above where the previous flowers were. It is now planted in fir bark and I put it into a plastic pot with slits, then placed the whole thing into a more decorative pot as suggested here on this forum.I'm so happy I did because now it is growing something? Not sure if it is growing roots or a stem. Can someone please tell me if you can see my new growth in the photos provided? Thank you all so much for your help. I can't believe I have kept it alive for so long.

I would also like to thank James_J, Billsc and Jean for all your suggestions, tips and inspiration. I couldn't have made this happen without your help. You are all so amazing!! Thank you soooo much.

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Comments (5)

Billsc
15 days ago
Garden Mist, What your photos are showing is two, maybe three fat, healthy roots searching for a home down in the fresh new bark mix you have offered them. Congratulations! Now, for other expectations. You don't show all of the old bloom spike, but if you have cut that spike back to a point below where the lowest bloom was, and there are still two or three buds(joints) remaining on that stem, one of them may develop and give you a short bloom spike with some blooms on it. Other than continuing your good culture practices there is not much you can do to increase the chance of that happening, because it is a genetic thing with the plant. If that bloom spike does not respond to your care, then look for a new bloom spike to emerge from between the leaf above and probably on the opposite side of the old bloom spike. Leaves come out from what I call the front and back of the main stalk of the plant, and roots generally emerge from the main stalk from the sides about 90 degrees from the leaf/bloom spike side. Bloom spikes are generally a pretty uniform green color with little bracts of tissue at the growing tip that elongate as the spike grows. Roots, on the other hand usually have a spot of bright yellow green right on the growing point, and behind that a band of reddish color if the blooms are colored, and just green if the blooms are pure white. Behind that band, the root is mature and has a silvery colored material that acts like a sponge to collect moisture and nourishment for the plant. The Real "root" is a tough woody stem that runs down the center of the roots into the main stalk of the plant, to transport the liquid and food that the root has collected into the main part of the plant. Ok, Orchid Physiology 101 class dismissed, Test tomorrow.
Garden Mist thanked Billsc
Garden Mist
Original Author
15 days ago
Billsc

Thank you so much for your help with all this wonderful information. I'll keep watching and hopefully I can get a new stem too. Yes, I think patience is needed growing orchids. lol - I'll keep looking after it with 'love and patience'

I just added a couple of more photos for you to look where I cut back the stem. I hope I did it right.
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If you have a healthy plant which won't flower, you need to research your plant and learn what you need to do. Phals need good light, need a cool down in the fall. Please join your local Orchid Society or learn online how to grow this plant. Your leaves look very dark which suggests the plant is not getting enough light. It needs about 6 weeks of cooler temps in the fall to initiate spikes. Give it stronger light and put it in a cool room. Use lamps if you don't have a window in the cooler room. You want at least a 15 degree temp drop over 6 weeks to spur the plant to flower. Light and temps are your problem. Jane
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Well I ask because Ive had my Phal in sphag moss since I bought it a year and a half or so ago. Havent seemed to have a problem with it. Recently I moved the phal outside (2 leaves, no spike, lost it flowers and i cut the spike last Aug) after repotting it. Ive noticed that outdoors down here in Miami the sphag stays humid waaaaay longer than indoors. I only need to water once a week, where as inside after 3 days it would be almost bone dry. I havent seen any new growth yet, although the center where the leaves connect is turning a brighter green, almost as if it is going to sprout another leaf hopefully. Ive seen other phals planted in bark/lava rock/ and even these weird looking balls (almost like tiny coconuts) and theyve all had success. I thought maybe my phal isnt too happy in the moss. But the leaves are a nice color, and very strong so, maybe im just impatient. I think its alot happier outside in the warmer air and shaded eastern sunlight. We'll see what happens! p.s. its potted in a clay pot with strips along the sides for good aeration and drainage. Not too tight in Sphag. I allow to dry completely before I water. I empty out a bottle of purified water onto her (zephyrhills) and allow her to drain completely. Then I lightly mist with a mixture of pure water/20-20-20/SUPERthrive (all diluted into a gallon of H2O). And let her do her thing!
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I have never tried this, but was reading about it in some textbooks on propagation my DH brought home. They say you can use the smaller feeder roots or the larger ones, cutting them between 1"-3". Put them on a couple of inches of substrate and cover with and inch or two of medium. The cuttings can be laid horizontally or vertically. If placed vertically be sure to get the polarity correct so that it's how they grew naturally ie. bottom part of root facing downward. It's also suggested to cut the bottom at an angle for roses. Concerning the planting medium, it was not specified, but referred to as "planting" medium as opposed to "rooting" medium, which I take to mean a more nutrient rich mix. I've done this often with other easy rooting plants such as those in the mint family with great success. (Too great sometimes!) : ) Let us know if you try it and your results. Most of mine aren't large enough yet, or if they are they root easily and truthfully, I don't need anymore New Dawn. : ( However, I have to transplant a huge one in March, so maybe I'll try this out. I don't think she'd miss a few roots.
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Your roots look ok. I would not use just any bark of any tree. You need to buy orchid bark. Can you buy online? Alternatively, you can keep it in moss, but should transplant into a terra cotta pot with drainage. Where in the world do you live? What are your growing conditions? Here is a culture sheet for Phals which may help you understand your plant's needs http://www.aos.org/orchids/culture-sheets/novice-phalaenopsis.aspx ETA: don't spray with peroxide or use cinnamon right now. One thing at a time. If you choose to repot, cut the bloom stem and dust cinnamon on the end. Then repot. Find a spot in your home or outside with temps 60-80F with 50% or more humidity in bright, indirect light. See how it responds. Keikis are not desired - that means the plant is dying.
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Billsc
15 days ago
GM, It looks like you may have cut the two bloom spikes off just a bit too short. Normally I would cut them just below the scar where the first bloom was. That would be the closest bloom to the plant. However, don't give up on it, orchids are notorious for having a mind of their own, so you might get a spike no matter what we so called X perts say. At any rate, you should get at least one new spike, and without the drain on the plant from an extra spike, the new one should be stronger and healthier. You did NOT hurt the plant in any way. Bill
Garden Mist thanked Billsc
Garden Mist
Original Author
13 days ago
Hi Bill, no I won't give up. I just hope it doesn't give up on me. lol - Next time I'll be more careful.

Thanks again for helping me with this. I'll let you know later how it goes. Much appreciated.

GM
Billsc
13 days ago
I have a feeling you'll do fine. I still vividly remember my first couple of years. If it hadn't been for two very good orchid societies I don't think I would have made it. If there is one near you, they come highly recommended Bill

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