Hi, I painted my entire townhome (except the bedrooms) in Sag Harbor Gray, and I loved it. It has lots of movement, changing from greenish gray (florescent light), to brown gray (recessed halogen lights), to neutral gray(sunlight). It looks realloy good with darker woodtones and reds. I can email you pics or I have an album on facebook with lots of pics of the townhome.

It depends on which type of paint grade he uses in a particular brand. I like to use BM Aura. I now live in CA and DE is a local company, so many of the painters are more used to it and it used to be more easily available than BM. Even in the 5 years we have been here, BM has expanded quite a bit. Old habits are hard to break! The exterior of our stucco house is painted in DE, as that is a proven elastomeric paint designed for stucco and the climate here. No issues with that paint at all. Your painter probably has an account with DE and gets better pricing. I am remodeling some bathrooms and told my painter exactly what I wanted, written down in detail (BM Aura Bath & Spa in matte). He purchased it and will hand those receipts to my GC and I'll be charged extra for the premium paint, which I am happy to pay extra for a product I have used before and been happy with.

I've used Behr paints quite a bit, no problem with it. I have not found any paint brand that is really "one coat coverage" especially when painting a light color over a dark. Maybe its just my painting skills, but I always need to do 2 coats. I've also used Valspar, Clark and Kensington and Benjamin Moore. I've never used Sherwin WIlliams, simply because it wasn't available nearby. I see that Lowes does sell a version of Sherwin Williams paint now, so I might try that the next time I need paint. Whatever is on sale, I've used but I never get the cheapest paint in whatever line I choose. I will say, we don't have children or dogs that can get the walls dirty, so I've never had to test how well the paint handles scrubbing, my walls stay pretty clean.

Hi Lori, Color chip is a great tool to narrow down your color choices. When you’ve narrowed it down to a few finalists, pint samples are there to help you. We recommend painting a poster size board and move it around the room to see how light and other surrounding environment effects the color. View it in the morning, afternoon and at night with your lights on. Switch out to another color and which one you like better. That doesn't answer the question. You started out labeling the color chips with "bluer undertones" and "redder undertones" when they were compared to each other. Then when another set of colors were introduced to the mix, when the context for a narrow one-on-one comparison was changed, you changed how you categorized Stonington to "subtle yellow tones" when paired with blues. And that begs the question, so what about when it's not paired with blues? So, if depending on context, Stonington can have "bluer undertones" or "subtle yellow tones" why assign absolute "undertones" or "tones" in the first place? And "Sea Froth 2107-60 looks redder next to Barren Plain" but we don't get any more clarification about Barren Plain's attributes specifically. When asked to clarify, your solution is to go buy samples, paint them, and move them around the room. Because now - all of sudden - the light matters. Whereas when you were so definitively labeling and categorizing the colors by bluer undertones, redder undertones and yellow tones the light wasn't a factor --- then. .... but now it is. Apparently the only way out is to randomly go buy samples, shuffle through the painted boards and hope one of the colors in the stack works. At least I think that's what you're saying. (And just to be clear none of this has anything to do with Color DNA. Color DNA refers to color measurements and resulting spectral data/color data values.)