Typical charge to install fuse
billscha1
23 days ago
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mike_home
23 days agoRelated Discussions
blown starter switch fuse; bad solenoid?
Comments (22)***"not necessary to disconnect both cables when working on electrical, just the negative/black?"*** That is correct.....So long as the negative/black cable is in fact, the GROUND cable for the vehicle electrical system. And in most machines built in the last 40 years or so, the negative/black is the ground conductor. But you must "cling to" every word of the description. "Negative", "Black", "Ground"! Each word must be considered as a separate and individual criterion when you are preparing to "put a tool" to the battery terminals. (this is a lesson, listen up) There are currently (no pun) no laws governing the colors of wires and cables used in AUTOMOTIVE applications. There are "generally accepted and recognized practices", but no REGULATIONS. Black is nearly universally used as the color (by OEMs) of the negative battery cable, Red for positive cable, but some OEMs might decide to use black cables for BOTH positive and negative conductors leading from the battery posts. And, additionally, you must always consider that the original RED positive cable.....might have been replaced with a BLACK cable. Furthermore, the OEM, BLACK negative cable, might have been replaced with a RED one (you see all kinds of things in "used equipment". The odds of finding a BLACK cable for the positive conductor are actually pretty good, while the odds for finding a RED cable for the negative conductor are slim (but I have found them more than once). Nonetheless, since it only requires that you "look at" the markings on the battery (positive+, negative-), that is what you MUST DO,.... each and every time you prepare to "put a tool" on a battery terminal. ALSO, when you identify the negative post/cable of the battery......trace the cable to where it connects next. If the negative cable connects to the vehicle frame, chassis, or engine block....it is the GROUND conductor. This configuration is what you will find on just about every machine/vehicle of recent manufacture. But, it makes sense to understand the relationship of "color vs. polarity vs. function" in a vehicle electrical system. IF the black cable is connected to the negative battery post at one end, and to the "vehicle ground" at the other end.........that is the only cable you need to remove from the battery in order to render the electrical system "inert" and safe to work on. Even that statement will have "limitations" if the vehicle has advanced electronics and engine/cab controls, but for MOST L&G tractors, it is the best, safest, practice. ................................................... Getting back to your Huskee. Before doing the next test, disconnect the GROUND cable from the battery. Leave all wires connected to the solenoid "posts",.... connected for the test. The black/blue pair will be removed but reconnected in this procedure. To further test whether the solenoid is defective (shorting inside the solenoid), if the first series of tests point in that direction, remove the mounting bolts of the solenoid (where solenoid mtg bracket fastens to chassis/frame. Reconnect the black/blue pair of wires to their same chassis/frame bolt and secure with nut. Use some kind of non-metallic, electrically insulating material (suitable piece of cardboard, carpet, even an old sneaker will do) to set the solenoid on so it can't touch a grounded surface (chassis). Once you have the solenoid resting on the non-metallic material, reconnect the ground cable to the battery negative post. Now, operate the ignition switch to the start position. If the fuse does not "blow" now, it indicates the solenoid has an internal short to ground (fuse DID NOT blow because no ground was provided for the "short" to use). Don't expect the solenoid to operate during the test. Access to the solenoid on my Huskee is somewhat "difficult at best", but I find I can get a better view of it by going in from the right side floorboard/step area (front end of center console and backside of engine). I have to lock the brake/clutch pedal down to get more room for my head. In taking the photos, I went through the battery access under seat AND from the other end I described above....See Morefuse in the grounding circuit of my huskee 22 hp garden tractor
Comments (22)The picture gets fuzzier and fuzzier without any pictures to accompany the meandering tale. Let me direct you to a recent thread (click link at bottom of this post) in which the form and function of the Briggs V Twin ignition kill circuits is discussed at great length. This thread was opened and finished before you signed up as a member. You will not read it all. I just know that. Now to try and address the ***" 3 things I want to know."*** 1...***"first is the battery charging i.e. amp meter"*** RESPONSE... I don't know because you don't give any description of what that ammeter is doing. But from the rest of your posts I would have to suspect it might probably not be charging. If the charging system is working, and the ammeter is even wired up correctly............the indicator needle should move to the PLUS side of the gauge face for at least a few minutes AFTER you start the engine (engine must be near full governed RPM for charging). 2...***" second is the oil sensing light working indicating low oil"*** RESPONSE... NO, it is not an indicator of low oil. It is an indicator of LOW OIL PRESSURE. The only reasonable and reliable indicator of low oil is the manual oil level gauge, also known as the OIL DIPSTICK. (do not confuse it with other types of "dipsticks"). The only way to guard against engine failure (due to low oil level) is to check the oil level by following the instructions in the owner's manual. The oil level should be checked each and every time BEFORE THE ENGINE IS USED. This means prior to using it and between use cycles if you must stop and refill the fuel tank. In lieu of following the instructions in the OM to determine if the oil level is sufficient, there are 2 alternate methods (signs) for "guessing" that the oil level might be low. A. You notice a piston connecting rod protruding from a new hole in the engine block. B. Engine refuses to rotate even when a 6' breaker bar with socket wrench is used on the flywheel nut. 3...***" Lastly shutting down in an emergency grounding the coils to each other."*** RESPONSE... I don't understand your use of the term "emergency". Try to read through the thread found by clicking the link I provided and it might "click" for you about how the 2 coils are separated from each other, and how they are connected to a COMMON GROUND for routinely shutting down the engine. Now get to work on posting pictures on here. :^) Here is a link that might be useful: Curiouser and curiouser...See MoreThermal Fuse and Whirlpool Dryers Repair or Toss
Comments (3)Thanks When he replaced the thermal fuse 6 months ago he also replaced part of the hose, said the new one was better than what we had and we removed the basket on the outside to let more air in. The bend is a soft one, no hard angles. Nothing is being crushed. The main problem seems to be that the hole in the wall for the vent was too low but since we have an old brick house, we do not want to drill another one. As for the temp control, we got an estimate on the part with our prior dryer, something having to do with temp regulation but it would have been about 280 a few years ago to replace the part, just for the part. The fuses then were around 7. Now for this one they are 17 with tax. This is for the part. DH used to replace the fuses and it was simple but it got tedious after a while. Plus the old dryer would break just as I needed something dried and DH was not home. I have a houseful of people so not sure if that makes a difference. I am tempted to get a speed queen or perhaps look into what they have in laundromats. Perhaps just get something that is not a whirlpool. Our old Kenmore/Whirlpool Washer had a plastic part on the bottom where the wash basket sat. It would break once a year. It was simply a design defect. I bought a TL without an agitator from another brand, problem solved! Although I am sure there will be new problems. Maybe the Whirlpool thermal regulator does not work well with my house?!...See MoreT-H1 Tankless Overheat Cut-off fuse
Comments (4)Yes, I called Takagi today. The fuse only cost $19 plus $6 for shipping. They are going to mail me the instruction too. I am going to do it myself. Thanks everyone,...See Morebillscha1
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