Should I cut my roses before tomorrow’s rain?
Andrea zone 9b
14 days ago
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BenT (NorCal 9B Sunset 14)
14 days agolast modified: 14 days agoAndrea zone 9b thanked BenT (NorCal 9B Sunset 14)Andrea zone 9b
14 days agoRelated Discussions
anything I should know before buying an arbor for roses?
Comments (11)Just for information purposes, I went through a wooden arbor and one of those plastic coated over metal arbors before getting tired of seeing my roses laying on the ground after a few years. I wanted something reputed to be impervious to ground conditions (rust, rot and termites)and our "tornadoish" winds. I also was concerned about the arbor heating up. After research I finally chose a Copper Arbor. That's been 10 years ago, and so far no problems. Even under blizzard conditions, with the roses laden with a heavy coating of ice, the abor came through fine. Although I couldn't find what I wanted locally at the time I ordered from this company, which is still in business and gave me excellent service. You might want to check them out and investigate a copper arbor as a long term investment for your roses. Here is a link that might be useful: Garden Expressions-Copper Arbors....See MoreShould I cut the top of my rose off?
Comments (9)A couple of questions, what rose is this and is it own root or grafted? Also, how deep is that mulch around the rose? Is there much more rose underneath it? I brightened up the photo so it's easier to see and marked the three places to cut, I think, that third ones really hard to see. Start at the red line and snip it off at about a 45 degree angle about 1/4 inch above the bud eye. Look at the center of the cane. If it looks moist and a greenish white or creamy in the center it's OK. But I have to say that one, although nice and fat, looks iffy because the cane has died back awfully close to it. If it's tan or brown and rather dry looking go to the next line, yellow, and cut again. That one looks like it's good but if not then go to the green line. At that point you aren't going to have a lot of rose left if there's nothing below the mulch. Don't be fooled by that white tip. That's just dried and bleached from the sun. The wood itself is dead. Depending on whether or not it's own root or grafted the rose may not survive that deep a cut if you have to go to the green line. Or if it survives it may never be a strong healthy plant again. Own root roses have a better chance of survival and revival because they will send up new canes from the roots. Grafted roses not so much. We call them one cane wonders and they rarely come back to be strong bushy plants after dwindling this far. And if it is grafted and it appears to send up new canes from below ground those will most likely be the root stock sprouting and not your rose. I hope this helps and I really hope your rose survives!...See MoreDidn't kill my rose yet-what is it &what should I do with it?
Comments (7)Thanks for the ideas. I could go crazy with orange roses apparently! I think I'll have to rule out Amber Queen which does look right but I think this plant has been in the ground longer than the 80s. The previous owner thought it had been in since the greenhouse was installed in the late 50s or early 60s. The classy fence post is newer. :) What makes a climber a climber instead of something that was pruned funny? Aside from the obvious trunks, this one doesn't put out any long branches. But it's had so much "shaping" I can't tell....See MoreRose bush with "black spot", should I cut it to ground?
Comments (10)My advice is for you to follow the directions given by Cecily, Jacqueline, and Seil. The bush is in a weakened state, no further cutting at this time please, even the blackened stem. You can remove it later after the bush recovers. Begin a regular spray program for the control of black spot now, and continue all growing season long. Spray all the leafless stems, even the black one ASAP. The bush should start fo leaf out very soon. Continue spraying every 10 days to 2 weeks there after, if using the Bayer fungicide. The Bayer fungicide works extremely well for me. I highly recommend it. I have not found the organic controls that I have tried effective, but I have not tried them all. Time your spraying carefully. Foliage can be damaged easily if spray is misapplied. Then the good you are doing is cancelled out. Never spray a thirsty bush, in the heat of the day, or when the temp. is 80 degrees F., or higher at spraying time or rises above 80 for a period of one hour after spraying. If you spray when the temp. is 78, and it gets up to 85 in just a half hour's time, that's no good. Spraying in the early morning or during dusk is always best. I could not grow roses to any degree of success in my garden where the black spot pressure is intense and relentless from spring to fall, without a regular spray program....See MoreAndrea zone 9b
14 days agoAndrea zone 9b
13 days agoAndrea zone 9b
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Moses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA