Locate the zone valve. Make sure that solenoid is manually closed (along with bleeder screw if it has one.) If that does not take care of it then (turn the water off) remove the top plastic part of the valve (not the solenoid) and clean the diaphragm and reassemble. Turn water back on to test. If this still does not do it, then go buy a replacement valve and replace all of the inner pieces along with the solenoid. When you turn another zone the pressure should drop since both zones are trying to come on, true? Here is a link that might be useful: irrigation troubleshooting

If I have mathed correctly, a 20" ID pipe of 10' is roughly 163 US gallons in capacity. My 110 gal bin is very heavy. For the heat, I would replace the end cap in the summer with a screened cap to let the air enter in through the bottom and rise to the top end as it heats up, like a smokestack. Spraying water in there will keep the temperature lower than ambient via evaporative cooling as long as you can maintain an airflow. For the cold, I live in zone 5 and there are redworms running around in the wild here. The key is that they can go into the ground and wait out the winter while the soil around them freezes solid. Your zone will not make them flinch with a deep bin. As far as the viability of your tube bin though, I have a couple of ideas to stimulate your concept. The first is feeding from the bottom with some kind of vertical funnel and using a bar and angle combination that causes larger, less dense pieces to fall back down while small dense things continue to the top and spill over into the barrow. In my opinion that would be better than just letting everything fall out the bottom regardless of readiness. On example of this in real life is in some common sewage lift systems. They use angled tubes with a spiral ridge on the inside surface to lift the water and solids up. It's probably the most efficient and hardest to break method, but I think you need your product to be loose enough to move as a fluid and the ridge to be short enough for larger chunks to tumble over it. The compost may need to be dryer than usual or at least fluffy and not sticky. The second idea is to essentially build a system like a cement truck. The funnel is at the top of the slope and the vessel spins one way to tumble the contents in the large bottom portion. When the contents are wanted out again, the spin is reversed and the contents auger back up to the top of the slope. I do think that it's probably a bad idea to tumble worms excessively though. Their skin is a small fraction of the durability of human skin and their critical organs are only one or two millimeters under their skin. In studying my archnemesis the slug, I have found that the reason my cucumbers are covered with sharp spikes everywhere is because the slugs are all covered with soft, wet, sensitive skin and don't dare remain in contact with the rough surface. Tumbling worms in dryish compost so that it doesn't stick to the auger will likely make for a very interesting and probably as-yet untried experiment to determine if worms can adapt to such an environment that they would generally avoid.

If they are supplying the Buderus with the built in reset controls you wonÂt have to change or replace anything other than adding a spring loaded differential bypass valve. The reset control will activate the circulator on drop of outdoor temperature and adjust the water temperature up or down to match the load so that the control valves stay open (which is what control valves are supposed to do) and in the event of overheating (solar gain, kids come home with the soccer team, cooking in the kitchen) then the thermostatic valves you have will modulate closed, the resulting rising head pressure on the circulator gets applied to the bypass valve and it opens and bypasses flow back to the boiler - voila  constant flow variable temperature systemÂ.it doesnÂt get any simpler. If you want some fine tuning  order the boiler control with a single RTU for control feedback  locate it in a representative area  kitchen/nook is generally a good place. A few more details to consider beyond this discussion but a competent manufacturers rep or contractor can handle it. Benchmark for bypass valve: Danfoss, Braukmann or Oventrop.

I was just searching for an old post of mine, and came across this one. Figured it might be of interest to post what I ended up doing. I build a 4' wide broom closet out of 2 plywood carcases. On the RH one I set the back a little less deep, to accommodate the downward pipe that wasn't quite flush with the back wall. Then I built a box for the top with crown, that completely covered the pipe coming out of the ceiling.