The Blog

Caterpillars can wreak havoc on a vegetable garden. Cole crops (Kale, Cabbage, Broccoli, Cauliflower) can take a nasty hit from these pests this time of year. If you’re experiencing this issue you might be asking yourself “How can I get rid of them?” and “Is there an organic remedy?”. The answer is Bt.

Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) is a naturally occurring bacterium common in soils. This bacterium operates like a virus which paralyzes the insect’s digestive system once ingested. The infected insect stops feeding and expires within a few days.

Application is a simple process. Bt is available in powdered or liquid form and should be applied to the foliage thoroughly. Early morning or evening is the ideal time for application as Bt is susceptible to degradation to sunlight as well as rain. We recommend an application about every week if necessary.

Bt should be stored in a cool, dark place. There is no need to buy more than you would need for one season. The effectiveness of the product should reduce for a couple years or so, but can be quicker in liquid forms.

A safe and effective product is what you get with Bt. Don’t let those little leaf-eaters terrorize your veggies anymore!

 Some of the most beautiful and unique plants around the nursery are the ones that may not be the first ones to come to mind. A great example of an underappreciated tree is the Trochodendron aralioides or “wheel tree”, native to Japan, Taiwan, and Korea. Its name comes from the Greek words “trochus” which means wheel and “dendron” which means tree. The tree was unavailable to Europeans until the mid 1800’s and only then was it given its name as it began to be distributed outside of Asia.

The T. aralioides is a species of the Trochodendron genus, which is monotypic, meaning it is the only living species in its genus. It normally grows from eight feet in height and can range from ten and twenty feet tall at full maturity, rarely growing largely in width. Contrary to its habits in nurseries, it has been recorded that in the wild the Trochodendron has been able to grow up to sixty feet.  It has beautiful inconspicuous green flowers that bloom in May in the Northeast, forming small wheel-like flowers that mix with its evergreen foliage.

The Trochodendron is fortunately a xeric tree, meaning it doesn’t require a lot of watering or care. It prefers to be in a shady spot where it can be protected from winter sun and excess amounts of wind. If you put this very adaptable plant in a relatively shady area with well-drained, slightly acidic soil, you will be rewarded with a unique and beautiful bloom in the spring. 

Our designated trough-making season started and we thought it might be fun and informative to ask you miniature plant fans for input on our production. Each year, we generate a “goal list” of shapes, some created in our standard molds, and some on one-of-a-kind sand molds where our imagination (and gravity!) is our only real limitation. We have an aesthetic standard to which we adhere and we keep a practical eye on things like tolerances, widths and usability. This simply means that:

1. We do not produce “Lucky Charms” (no clover leafs, hearts, donuts or daisies).

2. The construction of the piece must be strong and plant-friendly.

In the past, we have produced a number of custom-made troughs to the design and dimensions of our clients. We have also, on occasion, been asked to fill a “wish list” for a certain number of shapes, such as small cylinders, to be ready for spring.

So we would like to invite you, our trough gardening public, to weigh in with your ideas. Is there a shape we have not thought of? Are you looking for troughs of a certain size? We are open to producing a custom trough if you have an inspiration. Let us know! We will definitely need to have a conversation about the idea you have, and the logistics of making it. We will also need a down payment if we decide to go ahead. You may have a corner that will be perfectly completed by a certain-sized triangle, a spot that needs a tall tower, or a setting on a wall that cries out for a long narrow “window box.”

Trough-making is underway, and we are finished with production just before Christmas. We would love to hear your thoughts! Contact Lori Chips at 203-259-5609 or lori.chips@olivernurseries.com.

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By Lori Chips

The best way to care for your trough as we approach winter will depend on what you have growing in it, and where you have it placed in the garden. For plants that are highly sensitive to wet, especially those with silver foliage, it can be a good insurance policy to provide some overhead cover. This can be as simple as tucking the trough under the house eaves or as complicated as building a special hard plastic roof to fit over it. Do not encase the container in soft plastic, however, as that can do more harm than good. Allow plenty of air circulation for alpines, even in the colder seasons; these plants come from high, windswept elevations, after all.  If your trough contains dwarf conifers, be aware that many can be prone to winter burn and dehydration if in an exposed position. Chamacyparis and upright junipers like J. communis ‘Compressa’ can be martyrs to this especially. A general recommendation is to see that your trough is not in a wind tunnel, nor situated so that it will bear the brunt of a southern exposure. Sun reflecting off of snow can also do damage. Almost everybody has a foundation planting or a shrub border facing in a gentler direction, and this would be ideal.

In some cases moving a trough or troughs can be a hardship or just too much of a project. Here at the nursery we try to get most of them down off their bricks or blocks, but some are simply too enormous to move. Breakage most often occurs while moving them, particularly venerable old ones; and the decision to let them be is the right one. (I will never advocate leaving a trough up on a windy deck, but one must be realistic about how “heroic” our measures will be.) There happens to be a very skilled and knowledgeable chapter of the North American Rock Garden Society (NARGS) located right in Manhattan, and they have no choice but to garden on balconies and rooftops. Having seen their work, I can attest to its success!

The alternation of freezing and thawing is certainly one of the most destructive forces these containers face. It harms the plants and can also crack the trough. At the very least it can subtract years off its longevity. Any trick that keeps the soil frozen will benefit both. Topping off the gravel mulch will help protect the plant crowns. Sometime around the holidays you might consider placing evergreen boughs over your trough. Evergreens are springy and have the advantage of allowing some air underneath them. Do not use anything that will smother the plants and be sure to remove the protective cover before growth resumes in the spring. I have occasionally moved a patio table over a vulnerable trough that was impractical to move. Do not use a glass topped table, which can concentrate the winter light and scorch the plants. A cold weather cover for your trough can consist of anything that works. Difficult but desirable plants are the mother of invention. Personally, I like to worry less about “putting it all to bed” and view it more as a learning opportunity. At my house, it has been years since I put a trough in a cold frame. I now tend to try different plants in various exposures in different troughs. Finally, though, I find that most troughs and the plants in them are pretty amenable to being left right where they are. Be brave. You may be pleasantly surprised.

When the frost has settled in and the perennial garden is shifting toward hibernation, it is time to pull out the pruning shears and clean up. This does not mean that you clear cut the garden from one end to the other. The seeds of numerous perennials, like Echinacea and Rudbeckia, are an excellent food supply for the birds and can remain standing. Ornamental grasses and many varieties of Sedum offer terrific winter interest. These can be cut back in spring as new growth emerges.  Start your fall clean up by disposing of, rather than composting, any diseased or mildewed portions of the plants. Then judiciously prune the remaining plants, taking into consideration what type of perennial they are. Perennials fall roughly into three categories, making a difference in how they are treated in the fall.

Truly herbaceous perennials are those that die back completely to the ground. Plants in this group include Peonies, (but NOT woody Tree Peonies, which will die if cut back), Phlox paniculata, and Hosta. Be careful when raking up spent leaves that the ‘eyes’ or  leaf buds that lie below soil level are not damaged. The dead stalks of the plants can be cut to 2-3" from the ground. (Figure 1)

Semi-evergreen plants are those that hold a rosette of green basal leaves though the winter. The browned stems of these plants can be removed just above that green crown of leaves. Salvia, Heuchera, Achillea, and Leucanthemum are among those considered to be semi-evergreen. (Figure 2)

The third group is made up of perennials with evergreen foliage. These should only be trimmed of broken or diseased portions. Plants of this group also add winter interest with their color & form. Evergreen perennials include Lavendula, Helleborus, Iberis, Euphorbia and Dianthus. (Figure 3)

Gardens that are tended to in the fall will be pleasing to the eye through the winter, and will rebound with health and vigor in the spring.

To learn more about Oliver Nurseries, click here.

Dressing up an existing retaining wall

By Lori Chips

As anyone who has fallen for their charms soon knows, alpines and rock garden plants can be tricky to please. One good way to accommodate them is by planting them vertically in a stone wall.  This ensures excellent drainage and a cool root run, and helps keep excess moisture away from their sensitive crowns.  And it can also be very beautiful.

When the wall garden at Oliver Nurseries is in bloom in spring, we get a flood of questions asking how to achieve a similar effect.  I would like to focus here, not on constructing a wall, but on ways in which an existing one can be adorned with plants. Living as we do in an area rich in old pasture walls, some dating back to the Revolutionary War, folks wonder if these walls can be simply planted up.

Unfortunately, the answer is no.  Although I’m not a strict adherent of the dictum “plant as you build,” I do believe it is the absolute best way of achieving survival and success.  The reason these old walls are not promising is that they are literally riddled with gaps and air pockets and chipmunk runs – not a good environment for plant roots.

Although rock garden plants often measure only a few inches across and even less than that in height, it is quite common for their roots to extend a yard or more.  If they hit dead air spaces, or worse, are afflicted by small burrowing creatures, they will simply die.  The good news is that if the wall in question is a retaining wall, it can be planted with a bit of tinkering and patience.

Getting started

Before beginning, be sure that it is a dry wall, that is, one built without mortar.  And for future maintenance sake, eradicate any weeds that may be present.  Next, determine the exposure – full sun gives you the greatest number of plant choices, and the bulk of these are sun-lovers.

There are a few good tricks for planting an existing retaining wall.  After choosing a crevice, do a little excavating.  Old kitchen spoons, crevice trowels, a dandelion weeder, and even chopsticks are handy tools. Choose small-sized plants, the bigger the root ball the more you must wedge in; besides, youngsters generally establish better.  Have ready a basin of warm water in which you’ve soaked some long-fibered sphagnum moss.  Unpot the plant, tease out the roots a bit, bandage the whole root ball with some of the sphagnum moss, and insert the plant into its crevice.  The moss will act as a wet nurse as the plant gets established.

Always add soil after the plant has been inserted, not the other way around, or the soil will simply wash out.  This can be a tricky procedure, but the kitchen spoon and chopsticks come in handy again.  A couple of small stones can be wedged in around the crown of the plant to help hold it in place until the roots get well anchored.

Planting Tips

Choose a cool or overcast day for planting. Nothing wilts plants quicker than a sunny day with a dry breeze. Needless to say, the optimum time of year for a project like this is early to mid-spring. Summer is just too stressful and in the fall we run into the threat of frost heaving if the roots have not had sufficient time to grow.

Seeding a stone wall is another possibility, or plan for plants to self-sow.  Locate columbines, for example, at the top of the wall to encourage this to happen naturally. The same applies to Corydalis lutea. Seed can also be blown into wall crevices.  Moisten the area first, then place seeds in the crease of a folded index card.  Direct the “V” to the desired spot and blow gently.  Select species that are easier from seed for your first experiments, and be aware that not every seed will germinate.

Another trick for planting an existing wall is to lift off a few of the capstones.  Remember, cascaders flow downwards so situating them up near the top of the wall will have a good effect.  Strive for random placement and try not to place cascading plants directly above other plants.  Once the top stone is off, add a thin layer of soil, unpot the plant and tease out the roots.  The sphagnum moss strips are not required here, as this method is exactly the same as if you had been constructing a wall and planting as it was built.  Spread the roots out in a fan shape on top of the soil, positioning it so that the crown is at the edge of the rock below or just a little bit further in.

Finishing touches

Spread another thin layer of soil over the roots and replace the capstone. Often this stone will now be a bit higher than the others so some tinkering is necessary. To avoid the problem altogether (although it is a bigger project) one can remove all the capstones and set them aside. Plant in the desired spots and add the layer of soil to the entire course so the capstones will be even.  Do not wait too long to water the new planting.  Irrigation is probably the most critical issue for a newly planted wall.  Use a gentle rose on a watering can, or a fine-holed water breaker on the hose. Try not to direct the stream at the face of the wall; this can flush out soil and even dislodge small plants. A thorough soaking behind the wall will eventually seep down and out to the roots.

Depending on the weather, I like to water a new wall every few days for the first couple of weeks and at least once a week for the first season after that. The goal is to give the roots a chance to delve deep. That Holy Grail known as, “Soil that is moisture-retentive but well-drained,” is probably epitomized best by the habitat of alpine plants.  In nature they live on sometimes shifting gravely screes and talus slopes, or in stony crevices. Their crowns stay dry, but their ambitious roots travel deep, in a moraine they will even reach constantly flowing melt water from the receding snow.  Although these conditions cannot be duplicated at sea level, many rock plants will thrive in a wall crevice.

Don’t forget that the top of the wall is a great place to show off dwarf conifers and other small shrubs, as well as rock plants that are cushions or mat formers.  In today’s smaller gardens, the planted wall offers an opportunity to protect these small treasures and to display them beautifully.

RECOMMENDED PLANTS FOR WALL GARDENS

Sun

Alyssum var.                                          Campanula portenschlagiana              Gypsophila cerastioides
Any Aquilegia                                            cochlearifolia                                       Origanum rotundifolium types,
Arabis androsacea                                   garganica                                                 such as O. ‘Kent Beauty’
Aubrieta libanotica                               Chaenorrhinum origanifolium             Origanum pulchellum
Aurinia (formerly Alyssum)                Gentiana cachemerica                           Phloxes
   saxatile                                                Geranium dalmaticum or                      Sempervivum
Antennaria                                             G. sanguineum ‘Nana’                            And many others …

­

Part-Shade

Androsace x millstream, A.                  Corydalis flexuosa types                     Hutchinsia alpina
  sarmentosa, A. sempervivoides        Cymblaria var.                                       Lonicera crassifolia
Aquilegias                                                Euonymous ‘Kewensis’                        Saxifraga trifurcata and other  
Asarina procumbens                             Ferns (smaller types like                         mossy saxes
Calluna foxii nana                                   Aspleniums and Woodsias)                Sedum nevii (a small native   
Chiastophyllum oppositifolium          Houstonia (Heydyotis)                             sedum, will flourish in shade)
Corydalis lutea                                         caerulea                                                 And many others …

Lori is the alpine manager at Oliver Nurseries.  If you have alpine/rock garden specific questions, she is definitely the one to get in touch with.  Stop by the nursery or email her at lori.chips@olivernurseries.com. As always, like us on Facebook to keep up with all the new nursery news (Oliver Nurseries FB page).

A few exceptional choices for your fall garden…

PINUS densiflora ‘Oculus Draconis’  
Dragon’s Eye Pine
Conifers have a particular sparkle in the fall and this pine is eye candy on clear autumn days. The bright yellow banded needles are stunning from September on through the winter.

LESPEDEZA thunbergii 'Gibraltar'   Bush Clover
Extend the bloom in your garden with these rounded shrubs. They are cloaked with small pea flowers of deep rose purple from late summer through October.

LAGERSTROEMIA Crape Myrtle
Tree like shrubs bloom in late summer, but the show continues into the fall with shiny, orange-red foliage. The exfoliating bark on multiple stems is terrific throughout the year. New hybrids are hardy to Zone 6.

ARONIA Chokeberry
We have a wonderful selection of these native shrubs that are in their glory in the autumn. The glossy foliage glows in shades of red and purple. The edible fruit persists into the winter. This is a very useful plant for naturalizing in moist soils.

ACER palmatum 'Mikawa yatsubusa'   Dwarf Japanese Maple
This maple makes up for its small stature with unusually tight, overlapping leaves and bright green bark. The name translates to “shingles on a roof.” Slow growing, but it will become a focal point in the garden, a must for the collector.

By Paul Janisch

During the “off” months of winter we as gardeners have a chance to make an assessment of our surroundings. With the copious rainfall we received this year the plants responded with vigorous and at times surprising amounts of growth. In our assessment, there are times when we realize that some plants have gotten out of hand and need to be scaled back. Now is a good time to do this.

Deciduous trees and shrubs have dropped their leaves making the branching structure more visible. The way is clear to make the right decisions as to what should be cut and what should remain. There are three basic steps to follow while pruning. First, cut out any dead or diseased wood. Second, remove any crossing branches that would interfere with future growth and third, prune to shape the plant with an eye to the overall aesthetic. Never remove more than a third of the total tree or shrub and take your time. Think before making each cut, once it is done it can’t be put back.

A couple of things to keep in mind; if the shrub is spring blooming, in the process of pruning you will also be removing flower buds. Prune only as necessary unless there is a reason to prune the shrub back drastically and bloom is not of consequence. Trees such as maples, beech and birch have a tendency to “bleed” from pruning cuts. Therefore it is far better to complete pruning on these at the beginning of winter, giving the cuts a chance to season or heal before the sap flows in spring. The experts tell us that pruning when the wood is frozen is not a healthy practice. Making cuts on very cold days can damage cells in the frozen wood and proper healing will be hampered. So save your pruning for a nice sunny day that is above 35 degrees.

As in any task, the condition of the tools you use makes a big difference in the success of the job at hand. Keep your pruning tools clean, sharp and lubricated. Hand pruners are perfect for any branch smaller than your thumb, loppers can be used on branches up to the size of a rake handle. Branches larger than six inches should be tackled with a sharp bow saw or chainsaw. Making clean cuts as you prune is as important as making well chosen cuts. It is only with well maintained and sharp tools that this is possible.

Never prune just for the sake of pruning, a bit of advance research on the growth habit of your plants will be helpful. Now is the time to enjoy this less hectic gardening season.

Paul Janisch is the maintenance manager at Oliver Nurseries.  Check out our Facebook page for more information on the nursery.

By Jim Gerrity

As you may or may not know, Oliver Nurseries offers landscape design services. Knowing where to place a plant on a property is just as important as choosing the right plant. No matter how beautiful a plant may be, if it’s in the wrong location chances are it will not have the desired effect. That’s where we can help. Over the years, I have been asked to fix many landscapes that just “don’t seem to work.” The reasons vary, but often they share a common mistake, lack of planning. Too often, only a plant’s aesthetic value is considered before a purchase. The growing requirements of the plants, their ultimate size, and, most importantly, the problem you are trying to solve should be taken into consideration as well .

I’ve often found myself asking, “Why did you plant a weeping cherry tree three feet away from your house?” In order to maintain a tree, wanting to get 30 feet tall and wide, in that spot will require a lot of pruning. The response most commonly given reflects on the lack of planning mentioned above, “Because when I planted it there three years ago, it looked great.” I would have suggested either choosing a plant more appropriate for the size restrictions, or planting a weeping cherry at least 15 feet away from the house to allow for full growth.

“What are those brown twigs under your Pine trees? Oh I see, those are the remains of some unfortunate shrubs. What were they doing there?” Sadly, I have seen more plants subjected to this type of slow torture than I can bear. Without water and sun a plant cannot survive. Unless your plant is guilty of some unspeakable offense, planting it under a pine tree, which shades all direct sunlight and sheds away the rain with its canopy, is the equivalent of a death sentence.

Now, I know these are some extreme examples of mistakes, but the point that I’m trying to get across is that you should know what you need before you decide what you want. If you have nothing but shade in your yard, sun loving plants are not for you. If your property is small, then planting a tree that can grow very tall and wide is probably a bad idea. The better way to decide on what to plant is to assess what your needs are and then seek out a plant that will address your concerns.

Start by evaluating your property. Is there a bad view you want to hide, an attractive view of your neighbor’s well maintained perennial garden that you want to appreciate, or is your house too large on the outside to relate to human scale? (This is the most common and the most unrecognized issue in my opinion). The list goes on, but the point is that you need to find the problem before you can find a solution.

As you start thinking about next season and your next project, please feel free to give us a call so we can help you develop a plan. We’ll not only help you choose the right plants, we can also propose a landscape plan for your whole property, including hardscape components such as masonry and driveways. Please don’t wait until you realize your landscape solution “didn’t work” … give us a call.

If you’re interested in getting more information about landscaping with Oliver Nurseries, click over to our contact page and give us a call or send us an email. To learn more about the nursery in general, check out our Facebook page.

By  Melanie Fox 

Last week, I signed up for “Helleborus Anonymous,” one of the numerous plant addiction support groups available for the horticulturally challenged. Now, when I say challenged I mean that my ability to resist being fascinated/obsessed with particular groups of plants is often not what my horticultural counselor would wish for complete health. When asked to pen an article on my perennial plant selections for 2012, like any plant addict worth their salt, I immediately gravitated toward one of my obsessions: hybrid hellebores. I am addicted to the wonderful variety of their flowers, fabulous evergreen foliage, and ease of culture, and the generous way they reward even a sometimes negligent gardener. A negligent gardener who might perhaps purchase a few more beautiful hellebores than she can plant in a day! Three outlines and six pages of notes later, I realized that an article about our upcoming hellebore beauties was going to require extraction from an immense subject matter. Since conquering an addiction is about making choices, I decided I can’t love them all, buy them all, or describe them all in one article.

I decided to focus on the two best known hellebores, commonly called Christmas rose and Lenten rose, due to their respective bloom times. Christmas rose generally refers to Helleborus niger or selections of this plant. Before the advent of the Julian calendar, Christmas was celebrated on January sixth which is about the time H. niger begins to bloom despite the adverse weather. In the wild, Helleborus niger can be somewhat shy flowering, making each bloom a much anticipated event. However, modern selections from thousands of seedlings, and the use of tissue culture propagation techniques, have ensured that many flowered clones and even double-flowered forms are readily available. Heuger Nursery in Germany has concentrated a large part of their breeding efforts on Helleborus niger and Helleborus x nigercors selections. Helleborus Gold Collection® varieties H. niger ‘HGC Josef Lemper® and H. niger 'HGC Jacob'® are from their program. These two selections have an abundance of large white outward-facing blooms held in a stunning array.

Helleborus x nigercors is the result of crossing H. niger with H. corsicus (now known as argutifolius). A number of fine hybrids emerge such as H. x nigercors 'Honeyhill Joy,’ with its glossy green foliage and large clear greenish-white flowers that bloom well into April, making it one of our new favorites at the nursery. Another group of niger hybrids is H. niger x H. lividus known as Helleborus x ballardiae. Two introductions look particularly interesting: H. x ballardiae 'HRC Pink Frost’ and the H. x ballardiae 'HRC Cinnamon Snow'®, and I plan to trial a few. 'Pink Frost’ has beautiful silvery venation on the leaves, so even without its pink blooms it makes a beautiful addition to partial shade. 'Cinnamon Snow’ has large white flowers that develop a rosy cast, which then turn cinnamon as the flowers age. The attractive dark green foliage reflects the influence of its niger parent, providing a clear foil for the flowers.

Before I jump to the balmy weather blooming hellebores, the Lenten roses, I should mention Helleborus foetidus, a somewhat forgotten hellebore species which actually blooms before and after Christmas. H. foetidus suffers from the unfortunate appellation “Stinking Hellebore” which is untrue as neither its leaves nor flowers possess an unpleasant odor. Instead, its leaves are a wonderful intense green touched with black, and form an elegant lacy canopy which sets off the clusters of small chartreuse bell-like flowers. Although not as long lived as Helleborus x hybridus, which can persist upwards of twenty years, H. foetidus makes up for its brevity with an ability to re-seed at the base of mature plants. In my garden, I have an H. foetidus colony which I leave largely undisturbed. In the chill of late November when my garden is neatly-trimmed stubble, I take comfort in the evergreen persistence of H. foetidus already forming clusters of buds in preparation for a miraculous display of flowers in December. Frigid temperatures and snow may bow the plants, but they bloom on, proving we can have year-around bloom without a tropical climate. I’m not sure who pollinates these brave blooms as I have never seen bees in parkas, yet somehow my colony forges on. From year to year they cheer me up during the horticultural doldrums and tide me over until my Helleborus niger are ready to perform. Helleborus foetidus has a few nice selections worth pursuing, albeit somewhat elusive, such as 'Wester Flisk,’ with red petioles and a red margin on the chartreuse blooms, and 'Sopron,’ a robust form almost shrub-like, and 'Silvertooth’ with a silvery cast to its foliage.

On to the Lenten roses, which owe their common name to the flowering period of March through April, which coincides with the Christian observance of Lent. Helleborus x hybridus, as it is now called, is a fascinating and diverse group. About ten years ago, most commercially-available hellebores, excluding straight species, were sold under the umbrella of Helleborus orientalis, and followed by the cultivar or seed strain name. Those names were a bit misleading as they likely had one orientalis parent, but might have had Helleborus odorus, torquatus, pupurescens, or atrorubens in their lineage as well. Now, Helleborus orientalis is reserved just for that species, not common in gardens or the nursery trade. We have H. orientalis to thank for the large, dark, mostly evergreen leaves of Helleborus x hybridus selections; the bold texture of their broadly palmate leaves serves as a counterpoint to finer foliage in many areas of my garden.

Culturally, H. x hybridus is an undemanding plant. It adapts well to dry situations, but is more vigorous in well-drained garden soil, and it’s not as pH specific as Helleborus niger which likes a more alkaline soil. In early March, I cut back any winter-tattered foliage which allows me to better see the blossoms, which on my mature plants can be more than 50! As my life has grown more complicated, the undemanding character H. x hybridus has caused me to include many more of them in my garden. My faith in those 30 three-inch seedlings planted nine years ago has been well rewarded - they are now the backbone of my front garden and have persevered despite scant attention. All my plants are all from a well known seed strain Helleborus x hybridus Royal Heritage™ which was developed by John Elsey when he was at Wayside Gardens®. I find all of my plants beautiful, but the world of hellebore breeding has slowly steamed on and marvelous new forms are now available.

In the past, Europe dominated the hellebore hybridization market, with names like McLewin, Ballard, Strangmann, and Smith on every hellebore collector’s tongue. The full names of some very popular, widely available hybrids such as Helleborus x ballardiae, and H. x ericsmithii 'Ivory Prince’ bear this out. All serious hellebore breeders possess plants from the lines created by these famous names. I should mention that anyone who attempts hellebore breeding, by definition, is serious and patient, as only 20 percent of seedlings bloom by their second year. A plant needs to flower to be assessed as to its merits for inclusion in a breeding program and some plants can take up to five years to flower. Some crosses are sterile and need to be put into tissue culture to make them commercially available. Helleborus x hybridus is divisible, but this is too slow a process for today’s market. Therefore, many breeders concentrate their efforts on developing hellebore seed strains, refining them to the extent that the plants come 80-90 percent true from seed. A case in point is the exceptional white Tasmanian double, 'Mrs. Betty Ranicar,’ which has an amazing 98 percent true doubling from seed, a benchmark for breeders around the world. The cost to the breeder, and thus eventually to the buyer, is lower as they can market unbloomed seedlings faster. So as a buyer, you should be aware that you are most likely purchasing a plant from a seed strain, and with it comes a 10-20 percent chance of genetic diversity. The German hellebore breeder Gisela Schmiemann’s very popular 'Lady’ series, which was selected for certain flower colors, is a seed strain, although labeling makes it seem like the plants are clones. Ms. Schmiemann is internationally respected, and carries on her work using plants produced by the late Helen Ballard, a famous English hellebore breeder. A seed strain does not mean that the plants are inferior, just that there is a chance there will be variations. If you want to be sure about what you are buying, purchase a blooming specimen or a tissue cultured plant which will be a genetic copy of its parent.

Hellebore fever has spread to the Americas and is often the work of an enthused collector who becomes entranced with the possibility of developing yet another perfect blossom. We have several notable breeders here in the United States: Barry Glick at Sunshine Farm and Gardens in Renick, West Virginia, has produced the Helleborus x hybridus 'Sunshine Selections’ as well as the stunning Helleborus 'Sun Marble’ an x ericsmithii cross which always evokes admiring comments in our display gardens. David L. Culp in Brandywine, Pennsylvania, has produced the D.L.C. hybrids which contain singles and doubles of exceptional color clarity. Judith and Dick Tyler of Pine Knot Farms in Clarksville, Virginia, work on strengthening their seeds strains known as Pine Knot Select Strain and 'Southern Belles,’ which refine color and form in each generation. Breeders select for size of flowers, how the flowers are held, doubling, semi-doubling, spotting, and picotees, making the number of choices dizzying.

I am truly obsessed with hellebores in any shape or form, but my pocketbook directs me to more affordable unbloomed plants of respected seed strains. So early last year, I looked for plants to complement those offered by our regular suppliers. I slogged through international sites on hellebores and hundreds of Google® images, but found myself returning to the same pictures of stunning doubles from a breeder in Oregon. The doubles were part of a seed strain called the Winter Jewels™ Series bred by Marietta O'Byrne at Northwest Garden Nursery. The series includes primarily doubles and a few singles, all of which have a unique sparkle. I knew I had to acquire some for the nursery’s 2012 perennial selections. I had a happy experience with my plants from the Royal Heritage seed strain, and look forward to a new journey of discovery with my plants from the Winter Jewels strain. My current dilemma is how to choose between them; the temptation, based on the images I’ve seen of the plants, is to buy them in multiples and revel in the beauty and variety of their blossoms, savoring each jeweled surprise!

Some of those Winter Jewels are: Peppermint Ice, a soft pink double, Sparkling Diamond, a stunning greenish white double, Golden Lotus, a soft yellow double, Berry Swirl, a deep pink to burgundy double, Onyx Odyssey, a deep maroon to black double; Jade Tiger, a brilliant chartreuse double, edged with burgundy; Cherry Blossom, a soft single pink; Ice Follies, a soft yellow single with burgundy spotting; and Painted strain, a lovely white and burgundy picotee.

Next spring, no one should be surprised to see me staggering around the nursery, arms full of my new hellebores mumbling, “It’s okay, just a few more hellebores… These are job-related choices and my horticultural counselor said I could pick nine new hellebores without relapsing!”

Melanie Fox is the perennial manager at Oliver Nurseries.  To learn more about the nursery, click over to our Facebook page.