The Romance of Living on Germany’s Medieval Merchants’ Bridge
The Krämerbrücke is lined with ancient houses still occupied by local artisans. Take a tour of the bridge and one of its historic homes
Alexandra Oertel
June 16, 2016
Saunter across the Merchants’ Bridge, or Krämerbrücke, in Erfurt, central Germany, and you’ll feel as if you’ve time-traveled back into the Middle Ages. Thirty-two colorfully painted, half-timbered houses line both sides of a street that’s only 18 feet wide. You don’t even notice you’re standing on a bridge. But this bridge is special: It’s the longest one in Europe with buildings on both sides that have been occupied continually. First mentioned in 1156, the Merchants’ Bridge is the symbol of Thuringia’s capital city. Every June the bridge is celebrated in the Merchants’ Bridge festival; this year’s event runs June 17 through June 19.
One of the historic little houses on the bridge is where woodcarver Gabriele Leuschner lives. It’s a small space — the house is less than 15 feet wide, and the staircase alone takes up about a quarter of the floor area. “We kind of live on the staircase,” Leuschner says. She takes it in stride, though, because living here has always been her dream.
One of the historic little houses on the bridge is where woodcarver Gabriele Leuschner lives. It’s a small space — the house is less than 15 feet wide, and the staircase alone takes up about a quarter of the floor area. “We kind of live on the staircase,” Leuschner says. She takes it in stride, though, because living here has always been her dream.
Photos by Kate Jordan
Houzz at a Glance
Who lives here: Gabriele Leuschner, 71, a woodcarver. In days gone by, she lived here with her husband, Joachim (now deceased), daughter and son and the bridge’s well-known resident cat, Franz.
Location: The Merchants’ Bridge, or Krämerbrücke, spanning a branch of the Gera River in Erfurt in the state of Thuringia, Germany
Size: 926 square feet (86 square meters) spread across three floors, plus a shop selling wooden toys on the ground floor
Who lives here: Gabriele Leuschner, 71, a woodcarver. In days gone by, she lived here with her husband, Joachim (now deceased), daughter and son and the bridge’s well-known resident cat, Franz.
Location: The Merchants’ Bridge, or Krämerbrücke, spanning a branch of the Gera River in Erfurt in the state of Thuringia, Germany
Size: 926 square feet (86 square meters) spread across three floors, plus a shop selling wooden toys on the ground floor
From the 13th to the 18th centuries, bridges lined with houses were by no means rare. Among them were the Grand Pont (now the Pont au Change) in Paris and the old London Bridge. Yet only a few of these bridges with buildings on them have survived the centuries. Among the most impressive — besides the Ponte Vecchio in Florence and the Pulteney Bridge in Bath, England — is the Merchants’ Bridge in Erfurt.
Bridges like this were often built as parts of trade routes, and this is the case in Erfurt. From the early Middle Ages, the Via Regia — an important East-West trade route — led right through the middle of this Thuringian city. Along the way, the small Gera River had to be crossed by means of a ford. To make passage easier, a wooden bridge was constructed in 1156 that was replaced after several fires with a stone bridge in 1325.
The possibility of selling goods right on the bridge soon presented itself. “The privileged merchants of the Merchants’ Bridge guild operated a profitable trade in valuable imported merchandise, such as precious herbs, jewelry and scarves crammed into these variety stores. They were even called ‘crammed goods,’” says Kristin Luther of the Erfurt tourist office.
The booths of the early entrepreneurs later evolved into stone houses; after a big city fire in 1472, the Merchants’ Bridge was rebuilt, wider and higher. The storekeepers were then able to live right above their shops.
Bridges like this were often built as parts of trade routes, and this is the case in Erfurt. From the early Middle Ages, the Via Regia — an important East-West trade route — led right through the middle of this Thuringian city. Along the way, the small Gera River had to be crossed by means of a ford. To make passage easier, a wooden bridge was constructed in 1156 that was replaced after several fires with a stone bridge in 1325.
The possibility of selling goods right on the bridge soon presented itself. “The privileged merchants of the Merchants’ Bridge guild operated a profitable trade in valuable imported merchandise, such as precious herbs, jewelry and scarves crammed into these variety stores. They were even called ‘crammed goods,’” says Kristin Luther of the Erfurt tourist office.
The booths of the early entrepreneurs later evolved into stone houses; after a big city fire in 1472, the Merchants’ Bridge was rebuilt, wider and higher. The storekeepers were then able to live right above their shops.
In this 1895 drawing, you can clearly see the ingenious construction of the bridge. One special feature is that the cellars are located inside the bridge piers.
This drawing shows the condition of the structure around 1870.
“The three-story homes on the Merchants’ Bridge were built in the form of long, half-timbered row houses, two at a time on each side of the bridge. Through dividing walls, these were then subdivided into individual houses 8.5 feet wide,” says Christian Misch of the Thuringia State Office for the Preservation of Historic Monuments and Archaeology. He is responsible for registering and inventorying historic monuments in the city of Erfurt.
The need for space shaped everyday life on the bridge. That’s why the original 62 houses were eventually consolidated into 32. “Since the houses were then also individually rebuilt, they all look like detached houses today,” Misch says.
“The three-story homes on the Merchants’ Bridge were built in the form of long, half-timbered row houses, two at a time on each side of the bridge. Through dividing walls, these were then subdivided into individual houses 8.5 feet wide,” says Christian Misch of the Thuringia State Office for the Preservation of Historic Monuments and Archaeology. He is responsible for registering and inventorying historic monuments in the city of Erfurt.
The need for space shaped everyday life on the bridge. That’s why the original 62 houses were eventually consolidated into 32. “Since the houses were then also individually rebuilt, they all look like detached houses today,” Misch says.
The Merchants’ Bridge in 1938.
Fires and bombing attacks during World War II destroyed parts of the bridge; some houses had to be rebuilt after the war. At one time, there was a chapel at either end of the bridge. Today only St. Giles’ Church, whose tower can be seen in this photograph, remains. If you enter the Merchants’ Bridge from the eastern end, you walk through its tower archway.
Fires and bombing attacks during World War II destroyed parts of the bridge; some houses had to be rebuilt after the war. At one time, there was a chapel at either end of the bridge. Today only St. Giles’ Church, whose tower can be seen in this photograph, remains. If you enter the Merchants’ Bridge from the eastern end, you walk through its tower archway.
The bridge today still bustles.
Despite onslaughts over the centuries, the mixture of housing and commerce has persisted. The Merchants’ Bridge Foundation, founded in 1996, allocates the shops in accordance with strict criteria to maintain the bridge’s special charm. The standards require a mix of industry sectors defined as arts and crafts, antiques, spices and specialties from overseas and from the region.
“It’s also important there are no chain stores and absolutely only sole proprietors,” says Wolfgang Zweigler, head of the foundation’s advisory committee. “However, the foundation exerts no influence on who can rent the houses for living in the upper stories. That pretty much takes care of itself — you have to really want to live there. It’s a unique crowd.” Zweigler adds, “In contrast to the Middle Ages [and long thereafter], commercial tenants and residential tenants are [almost always] no longer one and the same.”
Despite onslaughts over the centuries, the mixture of housing and commerce has persisted. The Merchants’ Bridge Foundation, founded in 1996, allocates the shops in accordance with strict criteria to maintain the bridge’s special charm. The standards require a mix of industry sectors defined as arts and crafts, antiques, spices and specialties from overseas and from the region.
“It’s also important there are no chain stores and absolutely only sole proprietors,” says Wolfgang Zweigler, head of the foundation’s advisory committee. “However, the foundation exerts no influence on who can rent the houses for living in the upper stories. That pretty much takes care of itself — you have to really want to live there. It’s a unique crowd.” Zweigler adds, “In contrast to the Middle Ages [and long thereafter], commercial tenants and residential tenants are [almost always] no longer one and the same.”
Leuschner is one of the exceptions. For more than 30 years, she has operated a wooden toy shop on the Merchants’ Bridge and lives right above it. The 71-year-old handcrafts decorations and also gravestones; she gets her toys from other sources. She is known for her own little wooden houses with red and blue roofs, which are, not surprisingly, modeled on the Merchants’ Bridge houses.
As was typical for cities in the Middle Ages, the houses on the bridge all have names. As many of the houses have been combined, they often have double names. Leuschner’s house is called Zum eisernen Hut und schwarzen Rad (To the Hard Hat and Black Wheel). The name hangs above the door as a wrought iron symbol of the blacksmith’s shop it once was.
The building has been as well-groomed as it is in this photograph only since the 1980s. The poor condition of the Merchants’ Bridge in the 1960s made a comprehensive restoration necessary. By and by, the houses were also restored. “Under the difficult economic conditions of the [German Democratic Republic], it was challenging to maintain and repair the houses with appropriate materials in their historic form,” Misch, of the Thuringia preservation office, says.
Yet people cared. “The Merchants’ Bridge was not as badly neglected as was the case with many other historic inner cities during [the] GDR,” Zweigler says. “It was already then a showpiece — and at the same time not religious.” That was important for the atheistically oriented GDR leadership.
The building has been as well-groomed as it is in this photograph only since the 1980s. The poor condition of the Merchants’ Bridge in the 1960s made a comprehensive restoration necessary. By and by, the houses were also restored. “Under the difficult economic conditions of the [German Democratic Republic], it was challenging to maintain and repair the houses with appropriate materials in their historic form,” Misch, of the Thuringia preservation office, says.
Yet people cared. “The Merchants’ Bridge was not as badly neglected as was the case with many other historic inner cities during [the] GDR,” Zweigler says. “It was already then a showpiece — and at the same time not religious.” That was important for the atheistically oriented GDR leadership.
Buildings on the Merchants’ Bridge seen from the back.
When Leuschner heard about the planned new renting out of the bridge’s houses in 1972, she immediately filled out an application and was accepted. But it took until 1984 before the reconstruction work on her house was completed and she could move in. In the meantime, she had gotten to know her husband, who — was it an accident or fate? — had also dreamed of a life on this historic monument.
Leuschner’s 926-square-foot apartment stretches across three floors — a total of four rooms plus a kitchen, bathroom and toilet. The floor plan is simple: The living rooms all face north, with a direct view of the row of houses opposite. The kitchen and bathroom lie on the southern side, with a marvelous view of the River Gera, which flows underneath the Merchants’ Bridge.
When Leuschner heard about the planned new renting out of the bridge’s houses in 1972, she immediately filled out an application and was accepted. But it took until 1984 before the reconstruction work on her house was completed and she could move in. In the meantime, she had gotten to know her husband, who — was it an accident or fate? — had also dreamed of a life on this historic monument.
Leuschner’s 926-square-foot apartment stretches across three floors — a total of four rooms plus a kitchen, bathroom and toilet. The floor plan is simple: The living rooms all face north, with a direct view of the row of houses opposite. The kitchen and bathroom lie on the southern side, with a marvelous view of the River Gera, which flows underneath the Merchants’ Bridge.
When you enter Leuschner’s home, you immediately realize that the person who lives here loves history and handicrafts. Lots of wood, lovingly restored antiques and collectibles share space with small paintings, photos and craftwork in wood, ceramic and stone. There are also artworks by neighbors and the Merchants’ Bridge’s venerable old hand, painter Egon Zimpel. He illustrated, among other things, a book about the bridge’s resident cat, Franz — the Leuschners’ onetime house pet who hung out and was welcome everywhere on the bridge.
Unusual for historic structures are the large windows. They bring a lot of light into the small rooms — but also lots of noise. “We’ve had sound-insulating windows installed, because it gets very loud here. When people walk across the bridge at night and have a normal conversation, they aren’t aware that we can understand every word,” Leuschner says. Any such work on the house has to be approved by the foundation officials. That’s how they make sure the cultural heritage is preserved as much as possible in its original form.
Since there are just 18 feet between the two rows of houses, residents can look right onto their neighbors’ dinner plates. For the neighbors who are friendly with one another, that’s no problem. “Of course, we also have curtains, so we wave to each other sometimes in the evening — it’s very casual,” Leuschner says. “We all know each other — it’s a very nice atmosphere.”
Unusual for historic structures are the large windows. They bring a lot of light into the small rooms — but also lots of noise. “We’ve had sound-insulating windows installed, because it gets very loud here. When people walk across the bridge at night and have a normal conversation, they aren’t aware that we can understand every word,” Leuschner says. Any such work on the house has to be approved by the foundation officials. That’s how they make sure the cultural heritage is preserved as much as possible in its original form.
Since there are just 18 feet between the two rows of houses, residents can look right onto their neighbors’ dinner plates. For the neighbors who are friendly with one another, that’s no problem. “Of course, we also have curtains, so we wave to each other sometimes in the evening — it’s very casual,” Leuschner says. “We all know each other — it’s a very nice atmosphere.”
The house is even narrower than the street: 15 feet. The design tries to make up in height what it lacks in width. The biggest challenge is the fact the oak staircase takes up a quarter of the total floor space. That’s why life in the home involves lots of stair-climbing. “For us, it was no problem,” Leuschner says, “but when our daughter was born, we attached an additional rail on the wall side [on the upper flight, not shown] for safety reasons.”
Thanks to some clever solutions, enough living space was carved out of the small rooms. The kitchen cabinets are still the original GDR furniture. To maximize the kitchen space, Leuschner hangs pots and pans from a bar attached to the ceiling.
The Leuschners did without a big dining table, opting for a small one instead. They built the wooden bench (with built-in storage) seen here and below out of an old chest and a board, painted and carved in rustic style. Here, the woodcarving lady of the house likes to sit with a cup of tea while reading the newspaper.
From the hallways on the first and second floors, as well as from the storage area on the ground floor, Leuschner can step out onto a long, narrow balcony. The one here is a favorite spot, especially in the summer.
Because it’s difficult to maneuver large pieces of furniture through the door and get them into the small rooms, Leuschner and her husband built much of the furniture themselves on-site. This includes the large bookcase that stretches across the entire living room wall.
The elaborately carved wooden stool next to the tiled stove is an heirloom. On the question of whether she likes to sit on this magnificent piece of wood, however, Leuschner demurs. Things that look good are not necessarily comfortable. “I prefer to use it as a shelf,” she says.
The elaborately carved wooden stool next to the tiled stove is an heirloom. On the question of whether she likes to sit on this magnificent piece of wood, however, Leuschner demurs. Things that look good are not necessarily comfortable. “I prefer to use it as a shelf,” she says.
Because of their love of historic pieces, the couple also restored lots of old furniture themselves. They had seen this secretary desk in a garage, being used as a tool cabinet. “This piece of furniture is not deserving of such a fate, and we asked if we could buy it,” Leuschner recalls. But the woodcarver does not sit there to work. “For designing, I prefer to sit at the dining table,” she says with a laugh.
An antique clock with a special meaning hangs in the hallway. “For my parents, that was the alarm clock. On weekends when we were all at home, it was used to announce breakfast,” she says.
Before the restoration of the Merchants’ Bridge houses in the 1970s and 1980s, this room, which is flooded with light, was a bedroom. Today Leuschner can shower here with a marvelous view of the city. A large mirror that spans almost the entire width of the bathroom visually enlarges the small space.
On the old casement windowsills, Leuschner has arranged little wooden accessories.
Leuschner and her husband commissioned the two modern painted tiles seen here from a neighboring ceramist and painter. It’s indicative of how the residents of the Merchants’ Bridge like to help each other out. This extends to everyday things too. “If something’s not quite working with the electricity, I only need to walk over to my neighbor — he does all that sort of thing. All told, it makes for a nice interaction,” Leuschner says.
The toilet is separate from the bathroom. At first, the washing machine was also in there, but it was better sited on the ground floor, because such old buildings are very sensitive to vibrations. “When in spinning mode, the drum shook so badly, we were concerned the dishes would fall out of our neighbor’s kitchen cabinets, since they were right on the other side of the wall,” Leuschner says.
The toilet is separate from the bathroom. At first, the washing machine was also in there, but it was better sited on the ground floor, because such old buildings are very sensitive to vibrations. “When in spinning mode, the drum shook so badly, we were concerned the dishes would fall out of our neighbor’s kitchen cabinets, since they were right on the other side of the wall,” Leuschner says.
In years past, the third floor was just an attic. When Leuschner’s daughter and later her son were born, the couple needed more space, so they built one room and, later, another one on this floor. “The ceilings up here are only a little over 6 feet high. That’s very low. The rooms on the lower floors have ceilings of normal height,” Leuschner says.
After the children moved out, they converted the front room into a guest room, because the grown-up children and grandchildren like to visit. Their son’s former room became a work and hobby room for Leuschner’s husband.
After the children moved out, they converted the front room into a guest room, because the grown-up children and grandchildren like to visit. Their son’s former room became a work and hobby room for Leuschner’s husband.
In the hobby room, there’s much to admire. Leuschner’s husband was a mining engineer, and collecting antique miner’s lamps was his passion.
Once a year, Leuschner has the best view from up here of a different spectacle. During the third weekend in June, the fabulous Merchants’ Bridge festival is celebrated. This year the festival is happening June 17 through 19. During it, all of the residents are reminded of the significant environment in which they live — and that here, above all else, history lives.
More
Architectural Icon: The World’s First Bauhaus House
Design Calendar: Where to Go and What to See in June
Once a year, Leuschner has the best view from up here of a different spectacle. During the third weekend in June, the fabulous Merchants’ Bridge festival is celebrated. This year the festival is happening June 17 through 19. During it, all of the residents are reminded of the significant environment in which they live — and that here, above all else, history lives.
More
Architectural Icon: The World’s First Bauhaus House
Design Calendar: Where to Go and What to See in June
Custom Home Works is a full-service Ohio contracting company specializing in high quality custom design, building... Read More
What are you working on?
Related Products
Related Stories
Events
5 Trends to Watch From London’s 2024 Surface Design Show
Find out about new surface materials and products displayed at the annual trade event
Full Story
Events
Optimistic Color Palettes and Whimsical Hues at Maison & Objet
By Claire Tardy
Joyful and dreamy shades made a splash at the January 2024 design trade fair in Paris
Full Story
Events
4 Top Trends at Paris’ EspritMeuble 2023 Show
By Claire Tardy
See new products on display at the recent furniture trade fair in France
Full Story
Events
New Sustainable Materials at the Fall 2023 Maison & Objet
See some of the new eco-friendly materials and educational resources showcased the recent trade fair in Paris
Full Story
Events
8 Decorating Trends From a Top London Design Show
See the ideas and innovations showcased at the recent Decorex 2023 event
Full Story
Events
Pattern Makes a Comeback at Maison & Objet Fall 2023
The What’s New space at the recent design fair showcased geometric, floral, animal and other morifs on tap for 2024
Full Story
Events
7 Trends From the London Design Festival
Classic revivals, tech-enabled sustainability and vibrant color were a few of the trends seen at the 2023 event
Full Story
Events
7 Color Trends for 2024 at Maison & Objet
By Claire Tardy
New harmonies and unexpected pairings at the fall 2023 trade fair set the tone for next year’s interiors
Full Story
Events
6 Trends From the 2023 Milan Furniture Fair
At the recent Salone del Mobile, the global design industry had one foot in tradition and the other in innovation
Full Story
Events
7 Home Design Trends at Maison & Objet 2023
By Houzz France
Tending to our well-being as well as showing a greater respect for the planet were covered in the fair’s Take Care theme
Full Story
very Romantic!
My teenage son went to Germany in 2019 and saw this bridge. I remembered saving this story and pulled it up on my laptop to make sure it was the same bridge, which it was. i was able to astound him by asking, "Do you want to see what it looks like inside one of the houses on that bridge?"