A disappearing fountain with a rock base might work best for quenching a butterfly's thirst. You can place it among the plants so some water finds its way onto leaves. Use plants that have cupped leaves to hold rainwater, like sedum and prairie dock. Even consider creating a damp mud puddle in a shallow birdbath, which is particularly attractive to butterflies. (Think about it — butterflies use their long proboscis to pull out nectar from flowers, so they like to do the same with water from globs of mud.)
I bet you don't think of water as necessary for butterflies, but it is. You won't see them sipping from a pond or pool like birds, though, as they slurp droplets. This is why a fountain or other water feature that splashes a bit is important, as the action creates nearby butterfly-size mud puddles and drops to easily drink from. You can incorporate such a feature in almost any landscape design, from formal to informal.
Certain butterflies are especially attracted to certain flowers — monarchs go especially nuts for blazing star, or Liatris ligulistylis. Finding out which flowers will work especially well for you requires a bit of trial and error based on your location. A good place to start, though, is local university extension offices or arboretums, as well as native-plant nurseries that specialize in attracting and providing for wildlife. You'll certainly be doing yourself a favor if you find plants native to your area.
An Artwork If you have a piece of art you love and know you want to incorporate into your room no matter what, begin there. In professionally designed rooms, you often can’t tell which came first — the artwork or the furnishings — but the space shown here is a great example of the two working together beautifully. And that’s your goal. Pick elements from the style of your art piece, such as the palette, medium or technique, to start your design. Try looking for features such as similarity to a particular period in art history to direct the context you create. In this example, complex, warm colors and curvilinear lines in the artwork are echoed in the furniture.
Elizabeth and Eddie rarely bought the usual gifts for each other. Instead they collected poems and scriptures that were meaningful to them, writing them on index cards and filing them away in a box in the kitchen. For special occasions, each would secretly open the box, find a suitable verse and have a plaque made for the garden. There are dozens of them embedded in the garden hardscape.
7. Add a gate. Bold transitions are desirable to make dramatic statements in some cases. Gates can be aesthetically useful when a garden is too predictable and needs to be injected with interest, or when two distinctly different garden spaces adjoin. In either case why settle for an ordinary, mundane gate when, with just a bit more effort, you could add something unexpected and unique? Scouring antique shops, import stores and architectural salvage warehouses can yield a treasure trove of possibilities.
6. Create different levels. Terracing a space can result in both logical and dramatic transitions. The added third dimension allows for more diversity in themes and activities within a confined space. You will notice a surprising number of substrates in this yard, from the gray concrete pads to the tan gravel to the turf. What keeps all of this from being overpowering? The answer lies in the varying heights, masterfully woven together with bands of Cor-Ten steel that mimic the color of the house siding.
Landscape Design Paths 7 Ways to Design a Garden That Flows and Intrigues Transform a staccato yard into a smooth and relaxing delight by mastering the art of garden transitions Follow Jay Sifford Houzz contributor. I love great design, great plants and great people.... More » Comment 22 Bookmark 564 Like 29 Email Embed Click "Embed" to display an article on your own website or blog. Many of our gardens seem to be compartmentalized, mimicking our lives. We wake up, go to work, go to lunch, drive home from work, pick up the kids, prepare dinner, watch TV and head to bed, only to repeat the process the next day. The garden spaces with which we surround ourselves are much the same. We have our front yards, our side yards, our backyards, our children's play areas and our vegetable beds. We have unconsciously convinced ourselves that this is the way it has to be. What if our garden spaces flowed together seamlessly, creating one homogenous space? Are you saying to yourself that this could never happen? Let's see how it's done. Let's learn the art of mastering garden transitions. modern landscape by Quayle & Company Design/Build Add to ideabook by Quayle & Company Design/Build 1. Reimag...
3. Interject an element to induce transition. Boulders can be used to provide interest and contrast. This gives the designer a natural opportunity to begin something new. In this photograph a boulder has been cut into the metal edging along the pathway to provide unexpected interest and a natural transition point between a moss garden and a mass planting of autumn ferns (Dryopteris erythrosora, zones 5 to 9).
Landscape Design Paths 7 Ways to Design a Garden That Flows and Intrigues Transform a staccato yard into a smooth and relaxing delight by mastering the art of garden transitions Follow Jay Sifford Houzz contributor. I love great design, great plants and great people.... More » Comment 22 Bookmark 564 Like 29 Email Embed Click "Embed" to display an article on your own website or blog. Many of our gardens seem to be compartmentalized, mimicking our lives. We wake up, go to work, go to lunch, drive home from work, pick up the kids, prepare dinner, watch TV and head to bed, only to repeat the process the next day. The garden spaces with which we surround ourselves are much the same. We have our front yards, our side yards, our backyards, our children's play areas and our vegetable beds. We have unconsciously convinced ourselves that this is the way it has to be. What if our garden spaces flowed together seamlessly, creating one homogenous space? Are you saying to yourself that this could never happen? Let's see how it's done. Let's learn the art of mastering garden transitions. modern landscape by Quayle & Company Design/Build Add to ideabook by Quayle & Company Design/Build 1. Reimag...
1. Reimagine your hardscape and bed lines. Serpentine lines both invoke the imagination and have a relaxing effect upon the mind. In art theory this shape is referred to as the line of beauty. It infuses a composition with vitality, as opposed to straight lines, which signify death or inanimate objects. This bluestone walkway seems to be endless, disappearing around the bend. Don't you wonder what lies beyond?
Cost: Faux grass is expensive, but in time you will recoup your investment with a lower water bill, fewer chemicals and less maintenance. Faux grass installed by a professional can cost up to $20 per square foot or more. The turf alone can cost anywhere from about $2 to $3 per square foot, but the total cost is much higher because of the extensive prep work. Consider using faux grass in smaller areas to achieve the best look. Considerations: Synthetic grass comes in a wide range of quality — and in general, you get what you pay for. Look for a grass that has some brown blades blended in to make it look more natural, and always ask for recommendations from your installer. Homeowners who have strong DIY experience can take on a project like this in smaller spaces, but others should consider hiring a professional.
There are a few plants I turn to again and again because of the way their texture turns up the volume in almost any container design. Here the soft, almost fluffy texture of white sage (Artemisia ludoviciana 'Silver King', zones 4 to 9) loosens up the tight, dense appearance of the tiny-leaved dwarf baby's tears (Hemianthus callitrichoides, zones 9 to 11).
Texture is particularly important with a monochromatic or harmonious color scheme. Even in color, the texture in this arrangement is apparent and striking. The large, ruffled leaves of the Chinese mustard (Brassica juncea, zones 2 to 11) to the left stand apart from the thin leaves of the purple fountain grass, even though both plants have similar coloring. Finely textured China aster (Callistephus chinensis, zones 2 to 11) rounds out the look. When it comes to texture in container design, opposites attract. For example, large, broad leaves work great with tiny leaves, short with long, flat with ruffles and so on.
Pale purple coneflower (Echinacea simulata, zones 5 to 8) is one of the earliest-blooming coneflower species — if you don't have several of the species, you're missing a great diversity of blooms over a much longer time than what just E. purpurea can give you. What makes E. simulata unique is the very bright yellow pollen. This coneflower likes dry to medium clay soil and full to partial sun; it gets 2 to 3 feet tall and 1 foot wide.
If you need height and structure, let me introduce you to the drought-tolerant shrub arrowwood viburnum (Viburnum dentatum, zones 3 to 8). It's covered in white blooms in May; late summer brings a flush of blue berries birds adore; and the fall color is bright red, yellow or orange, depending on the cultivar. It also is a host plant for several caterpillar species. It thrives in dry to medium clay in full to partial sun, getting to about 6 feet tall and wide after eight years, and it will reach a bit taller after that.
The Problems With Butterfly Bush No one believes me, not even when I post videos online. The butterfly bush sees one-tenth, even one-twentieth of the action of almost any other native plant. Sure, an occasional butterfly or bumblebee, a sphinx moth, may fly by, but it's hardly anything to write home about. Even just as a nectar source, other nonnatives, like lavender and caryopteris, get far more insects — and as you know, insects are the base of the food chain for birds and us. Here's the thing about butterfly bush. It has proven invasive on both U.S. coasts. Maybe not in small backyard gardens, but birds carry off the seed to the point that it's popping up in unmanaged fields and roadside areas. A native of Asia, it has no checks and balances in the U.S., and as a larger wildlife-supporting plant, it just doesn't pass muster. I know we all plant butterfly bush to help insects, but the plant's name is simply as successful a marketing tactic as I've ever seen.
I never see anyone planting oaks anymore, which is a shame because you’d be hard pressed to find a tree more beneficial to more kinds of wildlife. Red oak (Quercus coccinea, zones 4-9) is a fantastic choice for fall color if red is your game. Plant it where its acorns won’t be a bother, and let it grow. It gets 50-70 feet high and 40-50 feet wide.
There may be a correlation between taprooted trees native east of the Mississippi and fall color, because it’s the same story with shagbark hickory (Carya ovata, zones 4-8). This tree turns a gorgeously clear yellow in fall and wows year-round with its namesake shaggy bark. It has the potential to grow very large, at 70-90 feet high and 50-70 feet wide. (I’ve seen it grow much smaller among other trees.) And if you’re looking for hickory nuts to eat, it’s best to plant a group.
Tupelo (Nyssa sylvatica, USDA climate zones 3-9, find your zone) turns blazing reds and oranges in fall but promises great, glossy foliage year round. This versatile tree develops a deep taproot, meaning that even though it's common in wetlands, it works great in drought once it's settled in. (It also means you should site it carefully for the long term.) Did I mention it’s native to the eastern half of North America? Tupelo grows 30-50 feet high and 20-30 feet wide.
Striking Monkshood Monkhood’s flowers are so striking that this plant is worth considering for a fall garden. Colors range from white to purple, but it’s the deep blues and incredibly deep purples that really stand out. Monkhoods are a good choice for shady areas, especially at the back of the garden, where you can use their 6- to 8-foot height to advantages. The cut flowers make a strong statement in floral arrangements. Caution: All parts of this plant are poisonous. Keep it away from children and pets, use gloves when handling the plants and cut flowers, and don’t plant it near edibles, especially root edibles. Common names: Monkshood, aconite Botanical name: Aconitum carmichaelii USDA zones: 3 to 7 Water requirement: Regular Light requirement: Partial shade; can take full sun depending on location Mature size: 6 to 8 feet Growing tips: These plants prefer plenty of water, cooler summers and winter chill; they don’t do well in warmer and drier climates. Provide moist, rich soil. They will die back in winter.
Shrubby Mexican Bush Sage Really an evergreen shrub rather than a perennial, Mexican bush sage is close enough in general looks to Russian sage and lavender to deserve being mentioned among these other fall bloomers. It’s especially good for mild-winter climates, where it will bloom from fall until spring. It’s a tough plant that can take drought conditions and still look good. It’s also a magnet for birds and butterflies. Common name: Mexican bush sage, velvet sage Botanical name: Salvia leucantha USDA zones: 8 to 10; grow as an annual elsewhere Water requirement: Light to moderate Light requirement: Full sun Mature size: 2½ to 5 feet Growing tips: Once established, this salvia grows quickly and can take over. Keep it in check by cutting it back in spring and again in summer, if necessary. Cutting back on water will also help keep it from spreading too far. Remove the flower spikes once they begin to fade.
Shade-Loving Impatiens Most people think of these as summer plants, but if you need a spot of color, why not stick a six-pack or flat of these in place? Sure, the first frost may do them in, but you can enjoy them until then. If you live where winters are mild, you may even enjoy them through the winter. The good news is that impatiens have one of the largest color ranges of any plants, so you’re sure to find something that will work in your garden. Common names: Impatiens, balsam, touch-me-not Botanical name: Impatiens USDA zones: All, depending on the species Water requirement: Regular Light requirement: Shade or partial shade; some can take sun Mature size: ½ foot to 2 feet Growing tips: It’s probably best to put out seedlings in the fall. They are fairly low maintenance but will do better if you provide regular fertilizer. Cut them back if they get rangy. All impatiens are great for containers.
Spectacular Japanese Anemone This perennial is beginning to play a major role in landscape design. It may take some time for it to get going, but once it settles in, it spreads easily and lasts a long time. The white or pink flowers are standouts, and the plant is large enough to straddle the border between shrub and perennial. Plant it under tall trees or shrubs so it can take advantage of the partial shade while filling in bare spots in the garden. Caution: Every part of this plant is poisonous if eaten. Common name: Japanese anemone Botanical names: Anemone x hybrida, A. japonica, A. hupehensis japonica USDA zones: 4 to 9 Water requirement: Regular Light requirement: Partial shade Mature size: 2 to 5 feet Growing tips: Don’t grow Japanese anemone in wet soil, as it rots easily, and add protective mulch if you live where the winters are very cold. You may need to stake taller varieties. The plants can be divided in fall or early spring.
Complex Toad Lily The name may not be inviting, but toad lily is the perfect addition to a woodland garden. It fits in well with shade-loving foliage plants, such as ferns, its pale green leaves contrasting with darker greens around it. At the end of summer, almost orchid-like white, pink or purple blossoms spotted with darker purple markings appear along the leaves from base to tip, adding a pop of unexpected color to a shady area. Common name: Toad lily Botanical name: Tricyrtis hirta USDA zones: 4 to 9 Water requirement: Plenty Light requirement: Light to full shade Mature size: 3 feet Growing tips: Provide rich organic soil and plenty of water, especially in sunnier areas. Some varieties have gold-edged leaves, which can really shine in the shade.
Cloudlike Russian Sage Looking like a cross between lavender and Mexican bush sage, Russian sage combines fragrant grayish leaves with light purple flower spires, and it has a long bloom season. While it will start blooming in spring and summer, keep cutting off the flowers and you'll get blooms into fall. Once established, Russian sage grows easily, especially in areas with hot summers and little water. In the garden it can be treated as a showy single plant or massed together to create a soft cloud of color that seems to float over nearby smaller plantings.
Common name: Russian sage Botanical name: Perovskia atriplicifolia USDA zones: 4 to 9 Water requirement: Little to moderate Light requirement: Full sun Mature size: 3 to 5 feet Growing tips: Russian sage will take almost any soil and often spreads easily. If you're planting it en masse, place the plants close enough that they can support one another, as single plants may droop. For best blooms, cut the plants back near the ground before they begin to flower in spring.
Bright Goldenrod Goldenrods have gotten bad press. For the record, they are not the source of ragweed allergies, so go ahead and plant them for your fall garden. They’re hardy plants that don’t need great soil; they can handle full sun or light shade; the newer hybrids are shorter and more compact than the rangier species; and most of all, when planted in a group, they provide a beautiful golden swath of color that’s a feast for the eyes as well as a food source for birds and butterflies. Common name: Goldenrod Botanical name: Solidago USDA zones: 3 to 10 Water requirement: Moderate Light requirement: Full sun; can take light shade Mature size: 2 to 5 feet Growing tips: Goldenrod grows well in containers as well as poor soil. Blooms usually begin in summer and last into fall. Divide it every few years for best growth.
Common name: Sneezeweed Botanical names: Helenium autumnale, H. hybrids USDA zones: 3 to 9 Water requirement: Regular Light requirement: Full sun Mature size: 3 to 5 feet Growing tips: All prefer hot summers and soil that drains well but don’t need much fertilizer. Stake the taller types and deadhead to encourage continued blooming.
The Other Coneflower There are plenty of Echinacea species available for home gardeners, but purple coneflower, now available in other colors, is the most popular. It's a hardy perennial with a long blooming season. Not only do the flowers attract butterflies and bees, they’re great cut as well. Take a look at the new hybrids that are even hardier and sport even more colors and flower shapes. Common names: Purple coneflower, coneflower Botanical names: Echinacea purpurea, E. hybrids USDA zones: 3 to 9 Water requirement: Regular to moderate Light requirement: Full sun Mature size: 2 to 4 feet Growing tips: Provide well-drained soil, but otherwise coneflowers will do well almost anywhere in full sun or, in the hottest area, some light shade. They can handle drought conditions as well. Deadhead to keep the flowers coming. Keep the seed heads in place after the flowers fade for birds to enjoy.
Common names: Black-eyed Susan, gloriosa daisy, coneflower, brown-eyed Susan Botanical name: Rudbeckia USDA zones: 3 to 11 Water requirement: Moderate to regular Light requirement: Full sun to light shade Mature size: 2 to 10 feet; smaller varieties are now available Growing tips: These do best their first year if you plant them in spring, but you can still put blooming plants in place in fall for a burst of color. Taller plants may be droopy, so stake them or plant them close enough together that they can provide support without crowding one another. Cut the flowers for arrangements throughout the growing season to encourage continued blooming. Divide when they become crowded.
Classic Chrysanthemum Mums, specifically florists’ or garden mums, have become the go-to plants for a fall garden. You can go with the traditional yellow-, orange- and red-flowered mums or find varieties with flower colors ranging from white to purple. As a bonus, the flower shapes are incredibly varied; you can find quill-like petals, daisy shapes and pom-pom forms. To make the decision even more interesting, heights can range from 1 foot to 6 feet. Common names: Florists’ chrysanthemum, garden mum Botanical name: Chrysanthemum x grandiflorum USDA zones: 4 to 10 (find your zone) Water requirement: Regular Light requirement: Full sun Mature size: 1 foot to 5 feet Growing tips: Plant blooming varieties in fall in well-draining soil about a month before the first frost for quick color. Then cut them back to about 8 inches above the ground when they finish blooming. Cover with sand, sawdust or a noncomposting mulch if you want. If your soil is very damp through winter or you live in a very cold climate, you may need to dig up the plants and overwinter them aboveground. Divide every few years.
Allium (liliaceae). This big group of plants includes onions, garlic and chives as well as many kinds of spring-blooming bulbs, some with flowers softball size or larger, such as Allium giganteum, shown here. Just a few bulbs can put on quite a show. USDA zones: 4 to 10, depending on species Light requirement: Full sun Mature size: 6 inches to 2 feet high and up, depending on species Bloom time: Spring and summer Planting tips for mild climates: Plant bulbs in fall, 3 inches deep and 6 to 8 inches apart. Place the bulbs with the pointy end facing up.
Freesia (iridaceae). Known for their sweet fragrance as cut flowers, freesias bloom longer than most spring bulbs. White is the most common color; there's also yellow, orange, red, pink and blue. In mild climates to their liking, they can spread and naturalize. USDA zones: 9 to 10 Light requirement: Full sun or partial shade Mature size: 12 to 18 inches Bloom time: Spring Planting tips for mild climates: Plant corms in fall, 2 inches deep and 2 inches apart. After bloom time, when leaves have yellowed, dig and store the corms in a dry spot. Or leave the corms in the ground for blooms in following years.
Ranunculus (ranuniculaceae). The growing fields of vivid ranunculus in bloom create a tourist magnet near San Diego. Tecolote hybrids — white, yellow, orange, red, pink — are longtime favorites, outstanding in borders or pots. In mild climates, plant them in fall for spring bloom; in cold-winter climates, plant them in spring. USDA zones: 8 to 10 when planted in fall Light requirement: Full sun Mature size: Up to 2 feet high Bloom time: Late winter or early spring Planting tips for mild climates: Plant bulbs (actually tuberous roots) in fall in pots or well-cultivated ground. (Bigger bulbs produce more flowers.) Place the roots pointed down, 2 inches deep and 6 inches apart. Water and wait until leaves emerge before watering again unless the soil dries out. Protect seedlings from birds. You may need to lightly stake floppy plants. After bloom time cut off faded flowers, let plants dry, and dig and store roots — they may do well a second year.
Hyacinths (hyacinthus). Dutch hybrids such as 'Peter Stuyvesant', shown, are plush and fragrant but last only one season in mild climates. Plant them where you can smell them — along a walk, in beds or in pots on a porch. USDA zones: 5 to 9 Light requirement: Full sun or partial shade Mature size: 6 to 14 inches high Bloom time: Early to mid spring Planting tips for mild climates: Buy big bulbs for big flowers. Before planting, store them in the refrigerator, as for tulips. Plant in mid to late fall. Bury bulbs 5 inches deep, 5 inches apart. After bloom time, treat them like tulips.
Tulips (tulipa). The most traditional tulips are Dutch hybrids, and they're great in formal gardens, beds and containers. Or try some of the smaller species especially suited to mild climates, such as Tulipa clusiana chrysantha (star-shaped, yellow and rose). USDA zones: 4 to 10; best in 4 to 6 Light requirement: Full sun, or partial shade in hot climates Mature size: Varies greatly among many species and cultivars Bloom time: Early to late spring, depending on climate and variety Planting tips for mild climates: Provide extra chill by storing the bulbs in your refrigerator's vegetable crisper for six weeks before planting. Wait until November or early December to plant them. Plant bulbs at a depth that is three times their width, 4 to 6 inches apart. After bloom time dig up the blooms and (sorry to say) discard them.
Daffodils (narcissus). The classic symbols of early spring are easy to grow in most mild climates, and they can come back year after year when left in the ground. Plant in flowing drifts, spotted under trees, in borders between shrubs and perennials, or in pots. Classic yellow types that do well in mild climates include 'Dutch Master' and 'February Gold'. 'Gigantic Star' is shown here. USDA zones: 3 to 9 (find your zone) Light requirement: Full sun or light shade Mature size: 6 to 24 inches high Bloom time: Generally late winter through early spring; as early as midwinter in California and other mild climates Planting tips for mild climates: Plant daffodils in well-cultivated soil in mid to late fall (early December is still OK). Bury bulbs at a depth that is two or three times their height, 6 to 8 inches apart. Water the bulbs after planting, and keep the soil moist through winter if rains don't do the job. After bloom time cut off faded flowers. Allow the leaves to dry (or wait at least six weeks) before removing them. You can leave the bulbs in the ground (avoid heavy summer watering) or dig and store them for next season.
7 Rules for Planting Bulbs in Mild Climates Here are some things to keep in mind if you garden in a climate with relatively mild winters. Order early, plant late. For the best selection, shop for bulbs as soon as they arrrive in fall. But don't feel you have to rush them into ground that is still warm. Mid to late October and November are fine for planting, and even early December is not too late. Chill out. Mild winters don't provide certain bulb species with enough cold weather. To compensate, chill tulip and hyacinth bulbs for six weeks before planting; store them in a paper bag in the refrigerator. Think deep. Follow the recommended planting depths for all types of bulbs. Better to plant too deep than too shallow. Multiply. Most bulbs look best when planted in groups of three or more — drifts of 50 to 100 if your space and budget allow. Or plant a dozen or two in a pot. Feed generously. Enhance bulb performance by fertilizing at planting time. It's simplest to sprinkle bulb fertilizer into the planting holes or mix it into the planting bed. Water thoughtfully. Keep the soil moist through winter if rains don't do the job. Don't expect longevity. Man...
What Else to Do in September in Your California Garden Focus on harvesting summer treats such as peppers, squash and tomatoes. You can also start laying the groundwork for a productive fall planting season. Keep the veggies coming. Harvest tomatoes, squash and beans as soon as they're ready — unless you're going for a supersize zucchini as a trophy or to stuff and bake. Stretch the season for summer flowers. Keep blooms coming by pinching off faded flowers of annuals such as marigolds and zinnias. Keep plants well watered. Continue feeding monthly or every two weeks. Continue watering. During such a dry year, this can be a crucial time even for established shrubs and trees. Check for soil moisture by probing with a trowel or shovel. Established natives and other drought-resistant plants should be OK. Encourage roses. After roses finish their early fall bloom, try for more blooms by cutting off old flowers, watering thoroughly and fertilizing. Revive your lawn. After a summer slump, irrigate thoroughly — at least an inch of water a week for a typical bluegrass lawn; less for more drought-resistant types. Fertilize with a complete lawn food.
Make your bulb plans soon. How could something this beautiful be so easy? Old favorite spring bloomers include crocuses, daffodils, freesias, hyacinths, and tulips. Now's the time to choose and buy spring bulbs for fall planting; as a general rule, look for the fattest bulbs (much more productive than cheaper scrawny ones). No hurry on planting, though. Wait until October or November to plant, especially in hot climates. Chill tulip and hyacinth bulbs before planting them; place the bulbs in a paper bag and keep them in the refrigerator for six weeks. Growing bulbs in mild California is definitely different. More info on growing bulbs in warm climates
Grow some soup and more. Kale salad never did it for me — I just didn't understand what the buzz was about. Now I get it. Kale is great in classic Italian soups such as minestrone and ribollita. To be authentic, try 'Lacinito' or dinosaur kale (shown), so named because its leaves are like rough skin. Kale is one of many leafy green crops to plant from seeds or seedlings in early fall. Others include lettuce and spinach. You also can plant cruciferous vegetables, such as broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower and Brussels sprouts. Good luck with Brussels sprouts unless you live at the beach and really know what you're doing. For cool-season vegetables, make sure you choose a spot that gets full sun all winter. You can start these from seeds sown directly in the ground now or soon: beets, carrots, peas, radish, spinach and Swiss chard. Set out transplants of broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage and cauliflower. In hot inland climates, wait until the weather cools later in the month. If you plant kale seedlings early in the month, you can even get a good fall crop.
Start slowly with wildflowers. Another California myth: Scatter some wildflowers seeds and you get a blue and gold spring meadow. California wildflowers are clearly wonders of nature but are not miracle workers. But choose the right species, do the preparation, plant at the right time and get a break from the weather, and you can have blooms to treasure next spring. One suggestion: Start small and slowly, with the easy combination shown here: pink farewell to spring (Clarkia) and California poppies. It's usually best to sow wildflower seeds in November or even later, when the rains may be near. Choose a spot in full sun. Prepare the ground by tilling or at least by raking it roughly. Try to cover the seeds with soil or mulch to help them stay moist for sprouting. Sprinkle with water and keep the seeds moist, if you can, until the rains come. A great source of planting advice, as well as seeds, is Larner Seeds.
Natives are waiting. California native plants, of course, are wired to be in sync with our upside-down seasons. Planted in fall, they're programmed to start putting on major growth when the winter rains come, perform in spring and mostly shut down in summer, when water is scarce. One unsung native that performs on cue is bush poppy (shown), a bright yellow evergreen shrub that shares worthy attributes of other dependable Californians such as manzanita and ceanothus. It needs no water when established, has few or no problems with pests or diseases, and blooms for a long season, mainly in spring but even stretching into summer. Like other natives, it can look a bit wild, but it can stand pruning for the sake of neatness. Common name: Bush poppy Botanical name: Dendromecon rigida USDA zones: 8 to 10 Water requirement: Light; no irrigation needed after the plant is established Light requirement: Full sun Mature size: 4 to 8 feet tall and 4 to 6 feet wide. Growing tips: Plant it on dry slopes in the company of other natives. Make sure the soil drains well. Unlike many natives, it can be pruned; cut it back to as low as 4 feet after bloom.
Stage a late show with perennials. This is a great time to plant perennials for next spring and summer, including campanula, columbine, coreopsis, gaillardia, penstemon, salvia and yarrow. Don't overlook Japanese anemone, a perennial with some uncommon claims to fame: It blooms in fall, takes shade and is easy to grow. The flowers are a stunning glistening white (shown here) or pink or rose. The growth tends to be rangy. It's best to put plants at the back of a bed or border, or against a fence or wall, where floppiness won't matter. Common name: Japanese anemone Botanical name: Anemone hupehensis (A. hybrida) USDA zones: 4 to 9 Water requirement: Moist but well-drained soil Light requirement: Full sun to partial shade Mature size: 1 foot to 5 feet high Growing tips: Be prepared to stake tall plants. Clumps can spread widely; divide the roots in fall or spring.
While you're planning, why not look for fall-color trees now beginning to perform? Think about how you use and view your garden. Do you want fall foliage early or late? With the right selection, you can have plants in color, even in mild California, from October to Christmas. Pistache and liquidambar trees generally turn color on the early side. Japanese maples turn early or midseason, depending on the variety and how much sun and moisture they receive. Persimmon tends to be late. Ginkgo, shown, also called maidenhair tree, colors up so late that you may be out of the fall mood and thinking about the holiday season, but it's an outstanding all-around tree. Green leaves shaped like those of maidenhair fern turn buttery yellow or golden all at once, and after a couple of weeks drop all at once — like a carpet on the lawn or sidewalk. The tree is large, handsome and generally problem free. Botanical name: Ginkgo biloba USDA zones: 3 to 8 (find your zone) Water requirement: Moderate; can grow in a lawn. The soil should be well-drained. Light requirement: Full sun, although partial shade is often OK Mature size: 35 to 50 feet high (can be taller) and 15 to 40 feet wide, depending on ...
Save water with a new lawn. If you're thinking about planting a lawn soon (fall is the best time to start), consider some of the newish less-thirsty types, including California native grasses. 'Native Mow Free', shown here, is a mix of several types of fescue grasses that take some shade as well as full sun. It can be mowed for a regular turf look or left unmowed for a shaggy, lumpy look. It's best to mow it at least a couple times a year. It works well on a slope. It is not a good play lawn. Whether you start with seeds (cheaper, but more demanding of weed control) or sod (correct watering is not as simple as it looks), the key and most arduous step is preparing the ground.
Plant now for blooms fall through spring. It's one of mild California's privileges: If you get them in the ground early enough, a good number of annual flowers can start blooming as early as Thanksgiving and will continue through winter into early spring. These include Iceland poppies (shown) and other cool-season annuals, such as calendulas, pansies, snapdragons, stock and violas. The target date for setting out cool-season annuals in most California climates is September 20; hold off for a couple more weeks in hot inland climates. And postpone planting if a hot spell is coming on. Most cool-season annuals need full sun. Make sure you choose a spot that will remain sunny as the sun's angle changes through the winter. Provide temporary shade during extra-hot weather in early fall.
Retaining wall areas are great places in which to strut your planting prowess. Plants that might otherwise go unnoticed at ankle level are elevated where they can be viewed, caressed and sniffed. Have your wall play hide and seek by growing spillers like rosemary, campanula, carpet roses or stonecrop at the front of a bed. However, slopes can be tough places for plants to grow on; they frequently lack an adequate depth of topsoil for deep root growth. Amend your soil after seeking advice from local garden experts. Provide good drainage behind the wall with porous gravel wrapped in filter fabric, and with weep holes to allow excess water to drain out of the root zone. And research native plants that have adapted to similar growing conditions in their evolution.
Halt a hillside. Sloping properties come with the challenge of reclaiming enough usable flat space to make outdoor living practical. Since retaining walls tend to be highly visible, and often massive, take care to select materials that harmonize with the other built elements. Natural fieldstone or river rock walls are a logical complement to a patio fashioned from irregular flagstone slabs. Taller retaining walls that require building permits and an engineer’s stamp are frequently built of concrete block, not the sexiest material to border your dining terrace, but their utilitarian appearance can be glammed up with a veneer of stone, brick or tile, or by coating it with colored or textured stucco or plaster.
turn your property’s edge into an art gallery by exploring the wonders of vertical gardening. There are dozens of companies offering do-it-yourself wall planters consisting of plastic honeycombs filled with potting mix, hydroponic systems with built-in watering devices or fabric pouches. Or custom design your own. Plant choices include succulents, exotic orchids and bromeliads, grasses, mosses and edible greens and herbs. Tip: Garden Up! Smart Vertical Gardening for Small and Large Spaces, by Susan Morrison and Rebecca Sweet, is packed with great ideas for enhancing garden walls.
Amp up the wow factor. There are times when the wall itself is the star player, embellished with bold colors, crafted of innovative materials or serving as a gallery for works of art. The heat is on when a sensuous red bougainvillea spills over a fiery orange wall, creating the focal point in this contemporary tropical landscape. (Good thing there’s water nearby to cool things off.)
Looking for a bit of theatricality in your garden? By day this garden room has a crisp, architectural personality. But in the hands of Jeffrey Gordon Smith, who has a flair for innovative color use, nightfall transforms this patio into a magical environment. Sandblasted glass diffuses backlighting, recalling the magic of a dusky sunset.
Imagine this sitting area in the middle of an open lawn. “Cozy” is not an adjective that comes to mind. But enclose it within a simple vine trellis and a rich bed of greenery, and it takes on an intimate personality conducive to hours of conversation and relaxation. Tip: If your goal is to create privacy for your dining patio or reading room — or any space where you’ll be seated — a 5-foot-tall hedge or wall is all it will take to make you disappear. Any taller and the space could feel claustrophobic. And keeping the top within easy reach makes trimming less of an ordeal.
Cultivate calm. A gentle breeze on a warm day is a welcome thing, but strong winds can turn reading the Sunday comics at the patio table into a Three Stooges comedy routine. It helps to understand the dynamics of airflow before you erect a windbreak, whether built or planted. When wind hits a solid vertical surface, it compresses and spills over the wall, causing turbulence. This means that except for a short distance immediately against the lee side of a fence, your efforts might not be very effective. A better strategy, if space allows, is gradually lifting the wind by creating a build-up of elements. On the windward side of your garden, plant knee-high plants to start lifting the wind, backed by shoulder-high, then head-high plants and finally, a taller wall or fence, if needed. This will create a laminar flow and achieve a larger quiet zone for you to enjoy in your garden. If there isn't adequate space, a diagonal board along the top of the fence, acting as an aerodynamic foil, can increase the windbreak's effectiveness. Another strategy is to filter, rather than block, the wind by planting shrubs or vines that allow some air to pass through them.
Break up your space. Whether your garden is large or small, breaking it into smaller spaces — each with its own boundaries and personality — creates the illusion of more space. The solution can be as simple as erecting a partition that insinuates a separate space and serves as a gateway. In the garden here, an open grid of wood slats does double duty as a backdrop for a commanding focal point.
Since walls can be a dominant element in a garden and are present year-round, why not enlist their help in your color palette? Almost any surface can be painted or stained, but infusing stucco with integral color makes long-term maintenance a nonissue. This warm-hued Southwestern-style wall plays right into the floral color scheme of golden Moonshine yarrow (Achillea sp), while the gate echoes the cool tints of catmint (Nepeta sp) and pincushion (Scabiosa sp).
Secure your borders. The most obvious place you’ll find a garden wall or fence is along the property lines. In tract house subdivisions, expedience and cost frequently result in not much more than a simple wood fence. This approach meets the developer’s needs but contributes very little, aesthetically speaking. In contrast, this classic, beautifully crafted brick wall not only defines a peaceful courtyard, but also is tall and solidly built, assuring security. Another benefit of masonry walls is their rigidity and density, blocking and reflecting unwanted noise.
Add last-minute summer color. Look for annuals and perennials already blooming in 4-inch and larger pots. These reliably have a long bloom season ahead: asters, marigolds, petunias, zinnias and other heat lovers. Pamper roses. To keep blooms coming well into fall, cut off faded flowers; fertilize and water your roses deeply after each bloom cycle.
Take inspiration from the forest. In the redwood forest, look at what grows under the trees for ground cover inspiration. Redwood sorrel is a pretty, clover-like perennial for shady spots, especially in cooler coastal climates. Its leaves are a bright green, and the spring flowers are white or pink. Naturally, it's great under redwoods, but it also does well under other tall trees or shade makers. Common name: Redwood sorrel Botanical name: Oxalis oregana USDA zones: 7 to 9 Water requirement: Moderate or more Light requirement: Partial shade Mature size: Up to 1 foot tall; spreads widely by creeping rhizomes Growing tips: Make sure the soil is high in organic matter. Cut back to the ground to renew growth. Redwood sorrel can become invasive in favorable situations.
Even beyond the beach, Pride of Madeira may work for you. With its oversize vivid blue blooms in spring and summer, Pride of Madeira is hard to miss near the beach, but it's also pretty easy to grow a bit inland. It is a big, tall shrub with gray, felty leaves. Use it for bold looks in the background or in a semiwild setting. Warning: It can spread by seeds in favorable situations. Common name: Pride of Madeira Botanical name: Echium fastuosum USDA zones: 9 to 11 Water requirement: Light Light requirement: Full sun Mature size: 6 feet tall or more and up to 10 feet wide Growing tips: Prune back the branch tips for bushier growth. Cut off dried blooms to control reseeding.
California. "Golden Gate Park in San Francisco, once an area of windswept sand dunes, is now a showcase of plants from all over the world," writes garden editor Bill Marken. "Few are more eye catching than nodding pincushion, one of many proteas from South Africa. Proteas are notoriously difficult to grow, which explains their high cost as cut blooms. They are worth a try if you can provide what they need: perfectly drained soil and the perfect climate — coastal, not too hot."
Planting notes. Callistemon 'Little John' is quite resilient, handling anything from temporarily soggy soil to drought. It requires little to no irrigation once established, making it appropriate for xeriscaping alongside natives and even commercial sites such as parking lots or medians. It likely benefits from fertilizer but doesn't seem to complain either way, and happily continues blooming through utter neglect. Be advised that while this plant is drought tolerant after being in the ground for a few months, it will need irrigation after planting to help the roots establish. It can be planted at any time of year, but planting a container-grown plant in fall will allow it to establish more easily — this means that it will be ready to produce loads of flowers in spring. This photo demonstrates how the plants tend to bloom a little throughout the year, so you can still expect to see some blooms every now and then.
If you live where it gets colder than 15 degrees Fahrenheit, you can still grow Callistemon 'Little John' in containers. Its small size will allow you to keep it potted for years without its outgrowing the space, and it adapts easily to spending the winter as a houseplant. This plant is drought tolerant once established, but I recommend repotting nursery-grown plants into larger pots and allowing them to put out deeper roots first. Plant them singly in pots or use them in a grouping by combining them with large-leaved plants to provide some contrast. A grouping of three large ceramic urns planted with dwarf bottlebrushes would make an excellent low-maintenance display and bring the blooms and velvety leaves closer to eye level.
In a small backyard in Ottawa, Ontario, a simple seating area is surrounded by a sea of yellow flowering sedum. Two stained-wood Adirondack chairs are topped with red patterned pillows that add just a dash more color.
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