I will tell you that I would pay some extra money for a specialty door if it made my home that much easier and enjoyable to live in. That's what money's for. But if the cost of special doors is way too much, you could perhaps go with two-part doors, so the bottom is a standard size and the top is special-made (the door itself could be a simple 2x4 frame for attaching the hinges, and with a piece of flat plywood (with iron-on edgebanding) as the top surface; and paint it the same color as the wall--easier to make it look like it's wall, then). You could have your contractor make it to fit, and it really shouldn't be that expensive. If you did this, don't put a crossbar above the lower door, though, since it will limit your access; and attach the faux "top of the doorframe" molding to the bottom of the upper door. There might be a visible gap around that panel, which you could frame in molding (on both doors) for the "blind transom" look. If you want to truly camouflage, you could add that same molding above every window (as in that house above a/ the effect in every room) Here is a link that might be useful: These people made the upper section of the closet be a set of cubbies!

Wow I really appreciate all of your input. I have been stalking this site for good ideas and here they are, thank you. My KD did a plan for standard sizes and it went with stacked cabinets but I really want custom so I am going to get some bids, we'll see... elizabeth, thank you, this is what my kd had in mind so I might en up doing this, it looks great romy I saw you posted this previously, i am using it as an example, thank you Sooner- we have the same kitchen! This is such an inspiration. I now know you really can go to the ceiling. kompy- I love the one box and smaller hardware on top, maybe this is what I should do, hmmm I will try to attach my kitchen plan and inspiration pics.

I have this problem too. I had 30"x30" closets, then after remodeling they became 52"x24" closets. Overall it's an improvement, but definitely the top shelves are less useful than before--can't get anything too deep up there. If I did it over again, I would have at least gotten a cost estimate for doing like a built-in wardrobe, but I don't think that's the kind of solution you want at this point either. I did buy a closet solution from Easy Closets and placed the rod pretty high, which leaves more useful storage on the bottom. Above the door I have shelves with some plastic storage containers--I'm still putting things away so it's not too packed yet.

26ft is a very low number. Are you sure about that? Are you building on slab? What is your plan between floors - typical is 18 or 24 inches. With a slab, it really should be 24 inches - for HVAC ductwork primarily. So 12 ft 1st floor, 2 ft between floors, 9 ft second floor is 23ft. That would make for a pretty flat roof. I am used to somewhere around 38ft as a limit - and bumping up against it if memory serves - on a 2 story house. But where you call the "top" varies as is where you call the base. Are there houses in your county with 12 ft ceilings on 1st floor? As far as "shame" you out of something, I don't think being deliberate about a decision is a bad idea. I do think you don't see many 2 story houses with 12 ft ceilings - I have never seen one that I can recall - for a reason. And mind you, I had 11 in 1/2 my first floor. It was designed so the master suite had a few steps to get there separate from the main staircase. And the master suite was above the 11 ft area. We have 9 ft upstairs. You mentioned 8 ft doors. We have 7 ft. Try to imagine your door casing and crown molding. They would have to fit in that 12 inches and not looked crammed. In my area, most grand houses have a decent size crown. Not sure that would look right. I agree that the big transition to 6'8" doors is a bit much also. Curious where you are building because I like to learn about regional trends and I also have my guess and want to see if I am right.