You may want to ask this on the electrical forum. I had several lights capped off until I found the perfect lights. The chandelier over our staircase weighs 200 pounds and no electrical box would support it. I ended up putting in a chandelier lift and bypassed the box altogether. Metal boxes hold more weight than plastic boxes. Do not use plastic ones if you do not have your fixture or know the weight of the fixtures. The strongest residential electrical box supports up to 50 pounds.

Let's see if I can get this conversation back on track ;) The question of insulation (I will call it shielding) would probably come from the thought of electromagnetic interference, or induction. This is often seen when testing to see if a wire is hot with one of those non-contact glowing voltage testers. For example, it will show the red wire in a 12-3 cable as hot when only the black is really hot. This is not likely the problem, but there might be a small chance of it contributing IF the switch legs of the lights and fan run up to the fan junction box together in a 12-3 cable, before splitting off to the lights. A fan motor runs best on a pure sine wave. A distorted wave can cause a hum. LED bulbs can also buzz for the same reason. All dimmers listed for LED bulbs do not play well with all bulbs. It can often be a guessing game of changing out dimmers or bulbs before you get the best combination. A less than optimal combination can cause poor power quality throughout the house. (A closer proximity can also make the effect worse, in the right circumstance) This is 'inside the wiring' and has nothing to do with "shielding" with respect to the fan motor. You may have more electronics causing this than just the LEDs and dimmers. The dimmers may just be 'the straw that broke the camel's back' or the majority of the problem. https://www.fer.unizg.hr/download/repository/Power_Quality_Primer-_Barry_W._Kennedy.pdf I do not know why that will not work as a whole link. Download here. http://www.docureader.top/doc/38236 I have not read that particular book, but I looked at a couple of pictures, and it seems to explain what you want to know ;D

A kid's bathroom usually means a tub/shower surround. If so... I prefer the vent in the ceiling within the tub enclosure. It's a fine place for a vent/light combo. It's best to have them controlled with a timer switch. Turn the switch ON and the shower light and fan turn on. Turn the switch OFF and the light turns off but the fan runs for a preset time, 10, 15, 20 or 30 minutes as chosen by you, then the fan turns off automatically. Then have bathroom lighting in the bathroom itself. Sconces on each side of the mirror, or ceiling lights. Depends on the size/style/layout of the room. Ventilation should be functional, it's best to have it as close to the source of moisture as possible. Lighting should be functional, ie, is it general room lighting or makeup lighting; eliminating facial shadows at the mirror, etc.

The light fixture on my Hunter ceiling fan went out. I think I need a specific style for wiring, but I’m not sure. The light is activated by a switch on the wall. The fan is chain activated. Is what is in the photos common? Where do I find replacement light kits and what specifically to I google?