I would be leery of using that fixture with LEDs. I have been experimenting quite a bit with both dedicated LED fixtures and with several different LED bulbs. Having said that, if you were determined to use that fixture, I would then only advise a 40 watt equivalent bulb, since less wattage equals less heat. And heat is what kills LEDs. As you can tell on one thread I started, I am a big fan of purpose built LED fixtures, and with your budget there are plenty of them out there. Bear in mind on the price, LED fixtures don't use bulbs so you are getting that part as part of the cost of the fixture. I have posted pictures of my favorite LED fixtures and the light they put out is phenomenal. Here is a link that might be useful: LED fixtures or bulbs?

air tight trim is a joke in my opinion.I base this on having tested for air leakage with a blower door while sealing these lights & trims. the foam rubber gasket does little to stop the air leakage from exiting the trim. the best way I've found is to use the hardcast 1402 mastic tape to seal housing to the sheetrock. similar to how supply box is sealed in pic of previous posting. tape goes into edge of housing and overlaps to sheetrock. allow 1'2" overlap as trim will cover the tape. this with the ICAT recessed light will stop as much of the air leakage as possible. there will still be a small amount of leakage, but not enough to be of concern. note this when you look at the recessed lights again: Halo's insulation contact air tight lights have two things that identify them. no holes in housing and a orange sticker inside the can that says it is air tight. orange sticker, not red. the red sticker says air tight when used with the following trim kits. deceptive lableling IMO. reading the small print inside IC cans the trim kits include, insert/baffle to fit inside the can to address holes in housing (@$14 each) and air tight trim kit, not sure of cost. as the insert/baffle would be needed at every recessed light, buying ICAT makes better economical sense. installing the baffles is a pita. so add labor for that to cost. buy ICAT, use mastic tape in place of 'air tight' trim. if you are putting IC cans outside under porches patio, unconditioned space this is what happens. as the install of recessed lights is ongoing, the electrician mixes up the boxes. some inside are ICAT, some IC. same outside. make it easy on everyone and buy all ICAT. wasps like IC, but not so much ICAT, less air movement. the cost per contractor case between the two is minimal when you compare to retrofitting each IC to air tight. best of luck.

I'm not a lighting expert, but I think you would need a fixture that either has light that goes both up and down....or get the maximum wattage that you can get! Below are some examples. This fixture has 6 bulbs that can be 100 watts each....that's 600 watts total.....a lot of light!!!! And the price is nice! I have bathroom fixtures from this brand (Minka Lavery) and they are very NICE quality!!!! http://www.lampsplus.com/products/hayvenhurst-6-light-34-inch-wide-island-chandelier__2d806.html Here are some fixtures that reflect both up and down. http://www.rejuvenation.com/catalog/products/cascade-up-down-chandelier http://www.lampsplus.com/products/sonnemann-metro-black-33-and-one-half-inch-wide-modern-pendant-light__u9029.html And finally, here is a 6 bulb fixture with 100W bulb each socket, but it was more directional....didn't reflect light off the ceiling..and I think it might create shadows. But here it is anyway: Be sure to click on 6 lights to see that exact fixture: http://www.rejuvenation.com/catalog/products/marquam-hill The photo below is the first one I mentioned.....600W Total Light. Also....what is the size of your room? This post was edited by kompy on Wed, Dec 10, 14 at 8:21

There are a few reasons that some in the design industry do not like the LED integral recessed cans: - the flat sealed lens is too "dead looking" when off - the baffle depth is too shallow - the throw of the light causes glare - you don't have the slight difference in lamp style, like from a PAR to BR, to fine-tune - single stamped metal trims are bulkier - if the LED goes out in the future, you have to replace the entire trim, which will probably not match the others. Nor will the sheen or transparency of the lens. - you can't experiment with different 'bulbs', you can only change the CCT - and for your specific selection the 5"/6" replacement means the trim is very wide and prominent. If you have a properly sized BR30 'bulb' that means you have 5" fixtures, not 6". As far as longevity of LED integral cans vs LED 'bulbs', it's a crapshoot for any of them. Longevity is predominantly a function of how much heat the driver electronics is exposed to. Some lamps are designed better than others for that. But if one goes out, it is overall much easier to just change a 'bulb' (or all of them) than 1/all the fixtures.