We used cedar and are very pleased with it. We finished it with Sikkens Cetol Dek which is a clear or almost clear finish. The Sikkens is expensive, but it holds up really well.

Now last time I went to Lowes, they had some finished-in-place White Oak, and I thought it looked quite similar to my floors, so I'm going to guess White Oak too. The floors are original, circa 1948. I've had them refinished twice since I've owned the house in 15 years. It is rental property, but they do hold up well. Knowing the species might also help me figure something out for the 3rd floor. The bedrooms and hall is original hardwood, but the big living room has been covered with carpet. When I had the carpet replaced years ago, I pulled back the old hoping for a gleaming hardwood floor underneath. I found a mostly good floor with deep gouges and cuts, it looked like someone was using a circular saw right on the floor. I think I'd have to tear up the floor and start from fresh, with a little threshold going from the old wood to the new for the height difference. The carpet is showing its age and will have to be replaced the next time the apartment is empty, if nothing else. It's a shame as the hardwood would really make the room stand out. My neighbor's house (the sister house to mine, 90% identical) has the original hardwoods but without the cathedrals, and it looks great up there.

I would use the wood you want. It's like telling you that you shouldn't put maple or fir cabinets in a house with oak floors. I'm sure others will have lots of examples, but I have natural (unstained) wood everywhere: birch cabinets in the kitchen, fir cabinets in the bathroom, birch doors and fir trim. Oak floors in the whole house. It all works great.

For people looking for a durable domestic hardwood our hickory has been a very popular option. Because you'll be finishing in place your installer should be able to stain any color you want but make sure to see how it looks on the specie and grade you choose. The hickory has a very noticeable color variation between the heart wood and sapwood and because of this will stain a little differently. As far as finish goes we usually recommend a tung oil finish because of the fact that it is spot repairable. This allows you to re-finish or touch up areas where the dogs make their loop, leap, or general jumping around. I know pointers can sometimes be a little high energy and this will allow you smooth out those areas without re-finishing the entire surface like you would need to do with a traditional poly finish. Another option that many large pet owning customers have really liked is our saw kerf texture. This does give more of a rustic feel to the surface but it also disguises many of the "accidental blemishes" that can happen with your flooring. What ever your decision we wish you luck!