It would be a crying shame to spend $627 on a vanity, not to mention another $1k or so by the time you acquire a vanity top, sink & faucet assembly then have it all cobbled in by a makeshift handyman solution such as recommended above. First off all, even though the afore mentioned solution would meet code the introduction of the two 1/4bends on the sink tailpiece would severely hamper the velocity of flow and thereby increase the risk of clogs in the drain line. Second, while the use of flex lines, or even the metal braid covered flex lines may be quick and easy to install in an exposed location they stick out like a sore thumb and shout "cheap & amateur", not to mention that despite their advertised claims, they are in fact the least reliable type of supply lines. In fact, in most areas where I have worked they are prohibited anywhere except in single family dwellings. Go to any reputable Plumbing Supply house and they can get you the tailpiece and P-trap fittings in polished Chrome, brushed chrome, Gold, polished copper, brushed copper, polished brass, brushed brass, polished bronze, brushed bronze, oil rubbed bronze, white enamel, black enamel and sometimes in red and blue enamel, not to mention some other specialty finishes. For the supply tubes you can get 3/8" brass tubing that is plated with the same finishes as the drain piping. Installing the brass tubing takes a bit of skill to install, but nothing that is beyond the ability of an intermediate DIY'er. To Install you would need a tubing cutter to cut the tubing to the correct length and perhaps a tubing bender to make any necessary bends in the tubing. The tubing is then connected to the faucet by means of a compression washer, friction washer and a cone washer ( all of which normally come supplied in the faucet assembly.) The line is then connected to the angle stop by means of a compression nut and tubing ferrule, which is also supplied with the new angle stop valve. I have on occasion found the specialty finishes on the shelf at Lowes, Home Depot or a local hardware store, and if they don't have what you want in stock, they can order it.

I was using the dimensions you show with the extra foot pushed out on the side wall. Maybe I added an extra inch. A drawing with precise dimensions would be helpful. "a lowered header, stub walls or a large archway " This would really delineate the entry space. I read somewhere that it's our eyes that need the space more than our bodies do. So any half-walls, raised counters, windows,columns, etc. will make a huge difference in your perceived feeling of space and division. Sarah Susanka is all about different ceiling height, too. I was thinking the same thing as LL - French doors into an office space would make a lot of sense. My son has an "interior subterranean office" in his place. His girlfriend hung a mirror covered with a grid, so you could swear there was a window in there. Makes all the difference in the world. I am really impressed with the function that the porch annex would make to this little jewel. The realtor will have to put on the sign "Must see inside."

Wooderlander, thank you. That is a very nice compliment. Kmcg85, thanks for the suggestion. As I explore paint colors I'll check those out. Parma, yes, that's probably a good idea! I reupholstered the sofa, the 2 ivory chairs, the seats of the 4 dining chairs & the 2 little striped chairs in the red room all at the same time about a year & a half ago. Had the drapes installed a year ago & the tablecloth made 6 months ago. Bought the rugs shortly after sofa was done. So, maybe I should take a breather from textiles for a while! Of course I've also had almost every room in the house painted at least once in the 2 yrs. & 5 mo. we've been here (this will be the third color for the hall!) I pay people to paint for me so it's not the ultra-cheap fix that it is for DIYers! I'm so ready to see that hall change (again) though! At least the jam color taught me that I like a deeper hue there. It does have more impact than the Linen White did. Anyway...I could ramble on for days, sorry! Thanks for the suggestions. Jen, thanks! I agree, Squirrel is quite a treasure.

First, I want to be sure I understand the goal: You have six acres, and you want to build a three-bedroom house (with room for expansion) for yourself ... and also a tiny house for your oldest son/girlfriend. And you're thinking family compound for the future. If I've got that right, I have several thoughts: - Is six acres enough for your plans? I'm wondering if you're over-shooting the house (the space you actually need PLUS that same space underneath in a basement AND almost that same space up above as attic -- I'd choose one or the other) and under-shooting the land (six acres isn't all that much, especially when you're talking about yourself + your two sons' families). - If you're thinking that your sons/spouses will live in tiny houses or cottages and your house will kind of the center of the family space, I think the kitchen and living room are ample in space ... but I think you might need more dining space. Imagine you two + two sons + wives + a couple children each -- your table may become crowded. - I hate the table in front of your island. This is one of my absolute pet peeves: two tables within feet of one another. It just seems silly. - Is that a walk-through pantry? Good. If you're living in the mountains, you may find yourself trapped in the house for a week or more (ice storms being the main culprits), and you'll want to keep plenty of food on hand. - Will you enter the house through the laundry room at the back ... and is that then a pantry to the right, which you'll pass through to enter the kitchen? If so, I'd be concerned about that long series of stairs being incompatible with aging in place. You need either your front or your back door to have minimal steps. Someone else mentioned elderly people having trouble with steps. Yes, with her walker, my grandmother could walk in a straight line all day long ... but a single step gave her real trouble. - If the plan is for the sons to have tiny houses /cottages on the property, why do you need three bedrooms? In your shoes, I think I might consider building two on the main level (so you'd have your bedroom + a guest room) ... and then in the future if you need space, you have all that upstairs space AND all that basement space available to you. I'm thinking that if your children (and future grandchildren) live on the property, you're not going to need more than one extra bedroom at any given time. - Given that you have a full bath open to the hallway, do you need a half bath in the laundry room? You'll have more toilets than butts living in this house. I'd use that space to enlarge the master bath shower -- again, an aging in place thing. Imagine you need help to get in/out of the shower, imagine you need a shower stool to sit upon, imagine you need someone to come into the shower to wash your hair as you sit upon the stool; all these require space. It's cheaper in the long run to just build it large and right in the first place. Actually, I think the whole master bath looks a bit cramped. - An alternate thought: If you really feel you need that half bath near the back door, you could open it on two sides ... this would mean it could serve as your master bath toilet AND would be available to you immediately upon entry to the house. Especially considering aging in place, this makes more sense: It means you won't be using a toilet in a tiny closet, which is difficult to clean and difficult for elderly people to use. A quick visual:- I like the pocket office and living room. - You say that's not a fireplace on the front wall? Being a life-long North Carolinian and being familiar with the weather in the NC mountains, I say bad choice. My parents live in the area, and they occasionally lose their power for days at a time -- they have a great wood stove for both heat and cooking. You definitely need a secondary source of heat. I'd also add a door (maybe a pocket door) to block off the bedroom wing; if you lose power, a good wood stove could heat the living room /dining room /kitchen. - I don't see the fireplace in the screen porch getting any use. Pretty? Oh, yes, but not practical. If it's cold enough for the fireplace, you're going to stay inside. - In a perfect world, you'd have the laundry nearer the master closet -- no, it's not far away, but you will have to navigate a couple doorways (while carrying a laundry basket). I saw my grandmother struggle with this. I also wonder why you placed the closet door way to the end of the room -- imagine you're coming in to grab a sweater or return a pair of shoes to the closet; you have to traverse the room for that chore. I'd put the door nearer the bedroom door. - I'd rethink that area where the bedrooms, bathroom, two tiny closets, and basement door meet. You have seven doors in something like a 5' radius. It's too much. - Finally, consider bringing large furniture (like beds and dressers) down the hallway. That little partial wall blocking the hallway is going to be problematic, and the 90 degree turn into the master bedroom may be an issue.