Dawn, No there are no seed sales thru Value Seeds anymore. The website is still out there with growing instructions but has a big notice on it that they no longer have seeds and you are referred to Thompson and Morgan. It was good while it lasted. Last year I found a garden shop/nursery in Bentonville, AR that had a Thompson and Morgan seed rack. That is the only time that I have seen them in a store. It was fun to look at, but there prices are quite high. I have been impressed with their packaging and I think that would be good for Baker Creek to adopt. I hate generic envelopes that don't show the real product picture on the envelope and planting instructions on the other, and Baker Creek has a lot of those. The advantage would be that you could package in those small heat sealed envelopes and only do the finally packaging in the nice colored packages as your stock got low enough to know that they needed it. Baker Creek does a lot of donations, and I'm sure the recipient of free seed would not object to generic envelopes, and they could save a lot of print costs on the seed that they don't sell to the public. They could save money and I would be happier. LOL

I have done several of thest type installs. The thing to consider is if you have at least an equal amount of wall space to open the door enough to clear the jamb opening. So if you have a 2'8" door you will need at least that much wall space to slide the door for a full opening. they can be great conversation pieces and can be used as pieces of art as well depending on the door design, if any. We have a couple of these in our bathrooms replacing the hinged doors that took up space when open. One of the slab doors I cut out a part of and framed in a wire glass piece we found in an antique shop. Have taken it with us to three different houses we have lived in. Replaced it with a simple slab door from the local lumer supplier when we left. They work great and are easy to install. Just purchase a pocket door track , or barn door track if you like, and rollers, frame it in and you are in business. Good luck.

You'll find that any method used, which mitigates the potential of damage to the dining room wall, will be expensive, may be the deciding factor and you'll be hard pressed to find a contractor who can legitimately say there will be no damage to the dining room side. This is the method that I have employed on several occasions, and keep in mind that these are full 2" x 4" stud walls. I used a 2x4 pocket door jamb amended to fit. The plaster and lath is carefully removed about 10" up from the floor. Metal brackets are attached to the studs at the bottom plate to add additional vibration damping, and the plaster and lathing removal is then completed. Metal brackets are added at the top plates. The nails are cut and the diagonal bracing is carefully removed. With the depth of cut set at 2-7/8" I use a beam saw to cut the studs for the top of the header height.(The wall may not be "load bering" but it's still weight loaded). Using a 4" grinder with a masonry blade, the plaster which has penetrated the lath is removed adjacent to the studs to allow clear passage of the table of a cordless skill saw to pass unobstructed. The DEWALT that I use is 1-1/8" table edge to blade. The studs affected are then ripped from the header cut to the bottom. The metal brackets are removed, individually, and using a sawzall blade with least kerf, the cut is completed. This DOES NOT affect the lath attachment on the opposing side. The nails attaching the bottom plate to the floor joists are removed and the bottom plate is attached in the 1-1/8" area that will remain. The bottom plate is cut and removed and depending upon the height of your existing door, filler is added or additional floor sheeting removed for the placement of the new jamb. If it's your decision to retain the aesthetics of a cased opening, the jamb will need to be amended to fit. The header and framing is set and the amended jamb is installed. With the jamb set, square and aligned, pre-drill the horizontal 1x slats in the jamb and attach to the dining room studs, further stabilizing them. A flat 2x4 is added to the side of the top plates on the kitchen side. A 2x4 is ripped to create a 5-1/2" wall thickness for the bottom plate and nailed in place. 2x6's are then ripped, installed and they are similarly attached to the jamb. The rock lath secured with screws and the gypsum plaster applied.

"A full drawer of pots and pans may not be as heavy or as forcefully closed as a pocket door, it's still not exactly light." If you have good pocket door hardware like Johnson they roll pretty easily and doors are not exactly lightweight. It might work in the back of the pocket, but is not going to help much when closing the door. It would have to stick pout of the door or the jamb to work and would look ugly poking out and catch things. You might be able to hide one at the top of the door concealed by the trim, but remember that unlike drawers that can be made to self retract for the last few inches, or cabinet doors that are spring loaded to close, there is nothing moving a pocket door except you.