We looked at making the center shelf fixed and the others adjustable but choose to fix all as shown. The cabinet is for two boys and the shelves are sized to fit anything they have. The client is a designer here in Vancouver and like me does not like the adjustable look. I find that people never adjust shelfs once originally set up and that when ordering custom built ins you get a much cleaner upscale look without the mass of extra holes. In a dining room or family room this adjustability comes with a certain "Ikea" look. Often you are undecided at time of production. If adjustability is required just allow for movement one or two inches over a set height and not fully adjustable along the whole span. Or offer adjustability in one bank of shelves not all. By removing these extra holes the whole unit just looks higher end. My thoughts.

>>ADA complaint would have a walk-in shower. When I stayed with my then-93 year old mother in a motel, she would not have been capable of maneuvering that step into the tub/shower. How would a wheelchair user handle it?>> As mentioned in the commentary, there are rooms with walk-in showers. This design is suitable for those who use a wheelchair but are still able to stand up with a little assistance. Not everyone who uses a wheelchair is completely helpless. The bellhop who brought up our bags can be asked to lower the showerhead. If you forget, just call the front desk and they'll send someone up.

We did look into it, but in a gated HOA and the matter of cutting a hole right smack in the middle of the attic storage space above the bathroom that would not only need a specified roofing company but render the storage unusable for anything but small narrow things that could be maneuvered around the exhaust fan stuff...yeah, ridiculously expensive and not sure why the developer never considered just putting fans in when the place was being built back in 1977 and completed 1978. The bath vanity where the sink was and the counter top on the cabinets below the bathroom window was this weird brown abstract pattern laminate, I had a cast iron tub put in with a tile surround and frameless glass slide doors after the fiberglass monobody shower and tub side wall had been previously patched and was cracking, the guy hired for putting up the tile nearly sealed my cat inside the wall but after discovering her in there and removing the drywall scraps of which none were attached to studs the cat was saved and the drywall was done correctly...the previous owner had the wax ring on the toilet crack and before I had the ceilings scraped of popcorn to smooth texture you could see where the toilet fell through the floor if you looked up at the ceiling in the front hall...the 70s were not the best time frame if one is looking for developers and builders making wise decisions in home building. :p

Have the finishes match all the other finishes, (door knobs, faucets, etc) in your home. Consistency. A constant temperature valve with one, two or three diverter valves -- one for the shower hear, one for the rain head, one for the second shower hear if you have a second one -- is the way to go. Check if an instantaneous "instant" hot water heater for only the shower, or sink, or both is feasible. Any good tile guy will tell you this: Use real tile, not rock, not marble, not glazed stone, polished cement or whatever other variation of tile the national/regional chain tile stores stock. The national/regional chain tile stores are OK for getting ideas, but ask your tile guy his go to tile supplier, and go there and look. Chances are the place will not be glamorous or have luxurious displays, but there are reasons experienced tradesmen patronize the place, good quality raw materials, reasonable prices, varied selection, etc. The overall, final look is all about pulling together patterns, colors, lines, shapes and finishes in a bathroom. Light, natural or otherwise, fits into that list somewhere also. If you're good at this then ok, else consult a professional architect.