I can see the underside of the Corian from underneath. I do see some 1" support strips between the Corian and the base frames. I also see silicone between the counter and the 1" strips, but don't see any squeeze out between the strip and cabinet. I hope they didn't nail the strip down into the cabinet frame. I haven't pulled out the toe kick to see how much shimming was done [but knowing the prior owner, the floor was probably flat and square - he was an engineer like me] For the two I want to remove without damaging, one is a 12" drawer base that will move to the other end; the other is a 33" drawer base that will go into the dining room and be the start of a builtin buffet. [I have a third to remove that is on a peninsula but I'm not keeping that so I can hack more aggressively on it.] These are Kraftmaid Cherry cabinets with the real wood frame upgrade.

Now I am showing kitchen layout with cabinet and open shelves turned toward front door. Would have mirrors behind to capture view. I also show the pantry to the left of laundry room door. Would you have pantry built with 3 drawers below, pull out shelves behind closed door and above this door a 12" open shelf or a traditional top door cabinet? Would you put an open shelf running above door to laundry room to connect the pantry with cabinets? If put open shelf above laundry room door, would you leave open shelves to right and left of stove or close in with cabinet doors? Would definitely want to leave open cabinet above 30" cabinet beside the refrigerator. Still trying to decide where to put the trash can.... Any suggestions???? Thanks, Jenn

I was busy sketching up ideas so I missed your latest post. Despite the downside of losing the lovely cathedral ceiling (in the screen porch area?), I think both ideas are worth considering. Here's why: it addresses your need of a mudroom where you need it. Plan B gives you even more: a powder room separate from the laundry room close to the exterior doors so no need for kiddies to strip muddy/wet clothing to use the bathroom (because you know they'll realize they need to go the minute they have just splashed in a mud puddle =) ). Plan A does not mess with foundation footprint or roofing. It will, however, require a beam to span the distance since you're removing a load-bearing wall. Ditto for Plan B. I enclosed the screen porch for a much needed mudroom. I moved the doorway between mudroom and kitchen towards the exterior wall and made it a pocket door (you can switch to swing door if a pocket door won't work). Moving this doorway gave me a long enough wall to fit a banquette bench. You can seat 4 on a daily basis, comfortably seat 6 when needed and in a pinch, seat up to 8 (perfect for hosting kid birthday/sports parties). I added another window on the top wall and centered the sink on the windows. I moved the fridge to the far right so that you have Ice-Water-Stone-Fire set-up (fridge-sink-counter-range is the typical path for making a meal). It also puts the fridge closest to the table for quick trips to grab milk, ketchup, etc. I MOL centered a 36" range on the far left wall with decent sections of counter on each side of it. I removed the wall between kitchen and FR to include a large island, big enough to seat 3. I didn't add a prep sink to it but it's large enough to include one, giving you an additional prep area. The island is large enough for 3 seats. I placed it so that there will be 7" from the seating overhang to where the hallway currently is. Couldn't tell how wide the hallway is but even if it's only 36" between wall and stairway, you'd have 43" between seating and stairway so you should be okay (NKBA recommends 44" aisles behind seating). If it's a 42" hallway, even better. I flipped the entry closet 90 degrees and stuck a walk-in pantry on its backside. I kept the hallway between front door and kitchen. Pantry isn't in the most convenient location but it was the only place I could figure adding one that didn't require major changes.Plan B encloses and enlarges the screened in porch.Biggest changes first. I moved the powder room and laundry room to the new, enlarged space between garage and house. This gives you a powder room that does not share the same space as the W/D. I tucked the W/D and laundry space behind the powder room so that the mess is out of view. The shared, long wall between garage and laundry/mud room is dedicated to storage for shoes, backpacks (school days will be here before you know it), coats, etc. I kept the pocket door and banquette bench as it was in Plan A. I kept your closet and hallway between front door and kitchen as you currently have it. I moved a Butler's Pantry and walk-in pantry into the old bathroom/laundry area. This gives you a much better flow from kitchen to DR, plus lots of storage. I swapped out the L with island kitchen plan for a galley style lay-out with one wall and island. I shifted the existing window to the right and added another to flank the 36" range (forgot to label that, oops). The island contains the sink and DW plus additional storage and room for 4 seats at the counter. Since you're considering dreaming and spending big, this lay-out may be within reach. And IMO, it fixes an issue I see that perhaps hasn't occurred to you. It also has a good flow between spaces. IMO, of course. =) A contractor and/or designer and/or architect should be able to address how to keep as much of the charm of the vaulted wood ceiling in the screened porch area.

@bry911 thanks for responding. Found myself here while searching for ways to remove subfloor all the way to joists and build back up with new decking. I don’t plan to remove subfloor under exterior walls or the one interior wall in this space. Just inspect and replace everything necessary. I realized after moving in that the house was vacant for 15 years, bought and flipped. Roof has probably had several leaks for a long time, leading to a few surprises. I’m handy, but Im not a contractor, having to figure this out as I go. Whatever I do I want to make sure I don’t cut corners, or compromise the home in any way. Problem, 66’ home with cold floors, soft and sinking in a few locations. Vinyl flooring over subfloor and 10” joists, 24” on center, 4 foot tall crawl space, 3-5mil plastic vapor barrier (not taped or sealed to foundation wall) on ground. I’d like to strengthen up the floor, apply closed cell spray foam under the entire floor and put back up the bat insulation. If it’s going to cost $10,000 I simply can’t do it, I’ll have to patch fix and deal with it. If I can find a way to do it for cost of materials and a day laborer for a day or two, might be possible. Just one of multiple projects, backyard grading isn’t ideal either, have to tackle that too. :/. Wish there was a homeowners anonymous group I could come to, help others with their problems, potentially get help with mine.