Wow Sweeby - finally, a female urinal women will *want* to use .... though methinks it could wind up causing even longer lines at the ladie's room.... (That *is* a female urinal, right?) American Standard sold female urinals for many years: (BTW that's how urinals are often arrayed in mens' rooms too - often without barriers between them, and certainly never in a complete stall with a door). They weren't very water efficient, and didn't catch on despite being offered for over two decades. Years ago I lived with a girl who out of respect I always put the seat down for. I had been taught over the years that a good gentleman does this. After awhile I noticed she always left the seat up for me too. I started to wonder if this was an unnecessary effort for both of us and bought it up, suggesting we just leave it in whatever position it was in when we were done using it; we could always flip the lid for ourselves if need be. And that's when I found out I had it all wrong - some women I learned do like to pee standing up. From what she said, a couple of well-placed fingers will empty one's bladder cleanly without spraying the rim (although she never demonstrated this technique to me in person). But website (not R-rated) shows the uninitiated how it's done.

I think a house that large needs at least one more bathroom, so I think you are wise to make the change now. A window is desirable, and one that opens is better than a vent. I hated the port hole type window we had in one master bathroom -- didn't open and only served to turn the shower/toilet area into an oven in hot afternoon sun -- so consider where your sunlight is if you look into windows. If you decrease closet space, consider adding built-ins inthe room as well as closet organizers. You could use the corners of the rooms or the spaces between the windows and have dresser/bookshelf space, desk space -- just figure out what you need. And that can be done later -- except that having an outlet in the right place for a desk or possibly chargers, lighting, radio, etc. would be good to consider now.

Some good, some bad advice above...especially considering future plans for the home - as well as making it a workable space now and when your toddlers are older. 11' is too narrow for an island with seating, period. (3,350mm = 131.89" / 11' = 132") ........ 25.5" perimeter (not counting the refrigerator!) + 48" aisle (b/c will be a multi-person work aisle) + 41.5" island depth for seating and working + 48" aisle behind seats (b/c that door will become a busy door) ==== 163" 11' = 132" Your Kitchen is too narrow by 31" (78cm) Even if you consider the layout with the seating around the end of the island, you need: 25.5" perimeter (b/c the first seat is in front of the perimeter counters) + 48" aisle + 36" island depth (for people sitting across from each other) + 48" behind the seats ==== 157.5" Still too narrow by 25.5" (65cm) Remember that aisles are not measured cabinet-to-cabinet, but to/from the item that sticks out into the aisle the farthest - counters (~1.5" past cabinets), appliance handles, walls, etc. Minimum recommended work aisle widths: 42" for a one-person and always a one-person work aisle 48" for two or more people working on the aisle - this is your situation and the situation of the majority of households of more than one person. Keep in mind that unless you plan to do this all over again in 5 years or so, you need to plan for a minimum of 3 people working in the Kitchen - at least one adult + two children (assuming you plan to teach your children to cook - a crucial life skill - and to clean up - also crucial!) If a work aisle is also a major path through the Kitchen, then add at least another 12". Minimum recommended seating aisle widths: With traffic behind the seats and no work aisle -- 48" behind the seats (54" would be better, but 48" will be workable) No traffic behind the seats and no work aisle -- 44" to walk past (39" to edge past) Note that "minimum" aisle width numbers were not numbers randomly picked out of the air and that they are the recommended minimums for a reason - to make it easier (and safer) to work in the Kitchen. Unfortunately, many cabinet salespeople (and some KDs) either do not know about them or don't truly understand them and ignore them. Or maybe it's b/c some customers don't want to hear it, they just want what they want - regardless of the consequences. (But it is then the KD's/cabinet salesperson's responsibility to discuss these topics with the customer and warn them of the consequences of ignoring them.) . . [For reference: 1" = 2.54cm = 25.4mm]

@R Luri I was replying the poster above me that was posting about a an air quality story. Mind you, if you research that assertion, it is not CA that certifies the product in question, but some 3rd party (i.e. advertising body) that collected that check to offer that "certification". My post about aluminum was referencing an earlier comment that I made where thermally broken aluminum (annodized finish) would be the "cleanest" window that you could install from an air quality potential standpoint. This assumes that that TBA would meet your performance requirement. Fiberglass is great and the Modern is a nice product, but if you search the forums on here, you'll read some complaints about fiberglass from just that manufacturer and even instances where the window had to be removed and swapped out for other windows because the smell was so noxious. https://www.houzz.com/discussions/5744342/horrible-smell-from-marvin-integrity-windows-installed-1-month-ago#n=121 Not intimating that it is even remotely the norm, but every product and the chemicals used in it's manufacturing, if not properly cured/mixed/applied, can generate some off gassing.