I ordered 6 12" high dividers to go in my 36" over the fridge cabinet, and 6 18" dividers for my 33" oven cabinet. Because the over the fridge cabinet just houses cutting boards and perfectly flat items, I suspect that we'll install them ~2" apart and leave part of the cabinet undivided for other things down the road. We'll mount the dividers in the oven cabinet based on how much room our actual muffin tins, 9x13" pyrex dishes and cookie sheets take up. Might as well custom fit them, right?

Let me see if I can answer all the questions -- this is a bit long: * The home is 1930s "semi" Colonial with small touches of art deco style in the original hardware, cabinetry and mouldings * The family room is an addition. It is on a step down level (like the original formal dining room in front). We are making changes to blend it better with the rest of the house, including entertainment center cabinetry that better matches the kitchen. * The two normal doors into the new enlarged kitchen are pretty much standard width and are cased in the original trim. If the opening was enlarged, the thought was it could be left uncased and arched, which would match the uncased original arc that leads to the formal family room. We could also custom mill some matching trim. The potential removed wall would still require a beam that hung down about 7 inches. Due to the nature of the add-ons over the years, I'm don't think hiding it into the ceiling is possible in this situation. * We are matching the original flooring throughout the new expanded kitchen and the rear foyer area, to match the original hallway and dining room. It is a random plank, quarter sawn oak with bevels between the planks. However, the family room will be in a different flooring. * The original rear foyer area has an original built-in closet used as a broom closet and two built cabinets in the side, with matching original inset recessed panel doors. The corner pantry was added in later and the doors do not match. The new kitchen cabinets will be inset, white, recessed panel but a slightly different style. These are painted currently in a taupe shade that matches the trim in the rest of the house. * Heading into this rear foyer area is a cased opening that is identical to the kitchen entry to the left of the main entry. We are taking off the door to the entry by the main entry, as it seems like it will just get in the way. * Standing or sitting by the corner windows in the lower left, you should be able to see directly through the two openings directly into part of the family room. At one point, we thought about raising the roof and floor of this room and taking out the wall completely, but the cost was way too high. * I think the bath is far enough away from the main working area of the kitchen and down a little niche, so there are no hangups with it sitting off of the "virtual room". Thanks everyone for your feedback. This post was edited by gooster on Wed, Mar 20, 13 at 11:56

So it just so happens that I got an e-mail ad from Harbor Freight Tools showing the knockoff for $19.99, and I figured for that price, I could buy it just in case I get the guts to do this. You see, I've been refacing the cabinets for the last 4 years (working on and off)...but at the time I bought the refacing supplies, my options were unstained (yuk), dark, and "harvest oak". So I got the oak. It's not bad as oak goes -- it doesn't have that yellow look that oak can get, it's shaker doors, and I suppose if I wait long enough, oak will come back. But the kitchen has another problem that has to be addressed: It's 9.5' x 17' and the work area is a U along a wall shared with a bathroom and a load-bearing wall. It's sort of cut in half in the middle by the refrigerator on one side and a wall oven cabinet plunked in the middle of the wall on the other side. Between the wall oven and the start of the "L" (which has the cooktop) is a door to the outside. I would LOVE to get rid of that wall oven cabinet and replace the cooktop with a range. If I keep the existing pseudo-cabinets (and you can read my sad "Kitchen Hell" story, with photos, here, the appliance place said they can cut into the existing base cabinet and finish it off, which will also give sufficient clearance from the outside wall that would be next to the side of the range. But then the oven opens up and blocks the door, so I'm not sure how good an idea that is, even though another house on my block did just that. The other issue is that I would lose four cabinets, which I would want to replace by building a wall of cabinets on the other 9-1/2' wall that is blank...but I have no idea what I'd put up there. I'd hate to do more oak, but I have no idea what would go with. If anyone wants to take a crack at venturing opinions, I can take more photos. Or I can just live in this horrid kitchen until I can afford to remodel it (and can find a reputable contractor who would do it without costing me all my savings). It IS, after all, just a 1950's cape.

I am pretty sure the part of the wall cabinet that the peninsula cabinets are attached to is separate. You can see the join if you look carefully. I would just take down the peninsula cabinets. Then, hopefully you can take apart the wall cabinet and just leave the small 12" (I think)wall cabinet. If it doesn't work you will still have options. You could take one section of the peninsula cabinets and hange them there, or you could just remove the wall cabinet and the valance over the window and put something freestanding in that spot. They sell metal counter top shelf units, kind of like bakers rack, that could go there, or you could just put up shelves, you could even reuse the cabinets to make the shelves if you wanted everything to match. So proceed fearlessly, it will be OK, just be open to going with the flow if things don't go perfectly. They rarely do.