It's true, I'm not 100% sure it is mold, but because of the appearance I have a suspicion it is some kind of mold. This plant has a history of mold issues and I have been recently experiencing many symptoms of mold sensitivity (burning eyes, sneezing and skin irritation) while I've been in close proximity to the plant. I'm hoping these symptoms will clear up now that the plant is out of the house. There is such a thing as red mold in your house and, from my understanding, some types of these molds are quite toxic. The reason I posted this question and picture to the forum is to see if anyone knows of a similar thing in plants; I didn't post to be instructed on how to clean up a dying plant. While I appreciate your response and your assumption that this is not a mold, I do not appreciate such a dismissive and condescending response. If you had a good idea about what this "pink stuff" may be, I would be more assured by your comments. So to answer your question, Ken, yes - it does matter what it is.

Lucie, my sink is an older model of yours. The colanders and cutting boards have been used once or twice and are now in the garage. I love the deep sink for washing large pans. I have only had 2 bowl sinks before this, and I will never go back to 2 bowls. However, with our garbage disposal sitting underneath the sink drain, that leaves just 5-6" to get around it to fix any plumbing. My husband can't get inside the sink cabinet to replace washers or repair faucets. Make sure your sink cabinet doesn't have the divider piece between the two doors. (Stylus? I don't remember what it's called.) I think because your drain is off to one side, you will not have the garbage disposal problem. We raised our countertops 4-5 inches, and we still have problems. Even without a garbage disposal, you will have to reach around the deep sink in the back, then up to the underside of the countertops to repair or replace anything. We have to hire people to do anything because my husband's back won't let him bend like that to lay inside the cabinet. Plus, you can't see what you are doing. 19" reaching back, then 10" reaching up to the underside of the countertop to unscrew the faucet, air switch, or soap dispenser connections is not easy unless you are young and bendable with long arms. Your sink is 19" front to back, but only 14.5" in the interior. Make sure your largest hand wash item will fit. My Ruvati center drain sink did not drain well. They had the channels/bends like yours, but the angle was not enough to fully drain like the slope on a cast iron sink. They could have changed that problem though. Cleaning: the square corners, edges, and angles are a pain to clean. I use an old toothbrush. Bleach will leave black spots on the sink if it splashes and you don't rinse it off. It is hard to notice that you splashed bleach until it is too late. Faucets: search Houzz for pull out vs pull down faucets since your sink is narrow front to back and deep. Our arched, pull down sprayer/faucet splashes everywhere unless we pull it down and let it hang 4-6" down hoping it will splash inside the sink. I am constantly drying the faucets, countertops, soap dispenser, and backsplash because other people don't pull the faucet down. It is a long way from the faucet to the item you are rinsing in the sink. With your narrow sink you will have to be careful that your faucet doesn't stick out too far which is why we chose an arched faucet that splashes. Doing it again: I would probably choose a sink without the square edges and corners to clean. I would choose more rounded edges and I would get a better slope in the drain. I would never go back to 2 bowl and would always have a deep sink. It is tough to find a perfect sink though with all of your requirements.

michelleinc, , Believe it or not, the demolition just commenced this week, so it is still in the box. As sometimes happens, our kitchen reno morphed into a much bigger project than we originally planned. I ordered a Prolific but returned it, as the one I received had sloppy welds, which was likely just a fluke. Many on here like their Prolifics. The second ledge on the Highpoint holds many of my baking dishes, so I anticipate that it will be very useful. Sorry I couldn't be more help to you.

I would look at a vinyl WITHOUT the underlay attached. The concept that vinyl can be removed, cleaned and reinstalled after a flood is valid....with a MASSIVE caveat attached to it. The vinyl CANNOT have underpad attached to it - it must be vinyl top to bottom 2. The vinyl must be floating or loose laid with a perimeter glue. The floor MUST be removed IMMEDIATELY from the wet/flooded area The boards must then be cleaned (a mild bleach solution is required for this) and then rinsed to remove the bleach (bathtubs are AWESOME for this) The boards are then laid flat to dry in SUNLIGHT (UV rays kill mold/bacteria) The boards are then PROPERLY racked/stacked COMPLETELY flat while waiting for the contractor to deal with the clean up. Floors are then reinstalled once the area is ready for flooring Sigh. In my experience, roughly 1 in 50 vinyl owners have the want/ability to salvage their vinyl floors. In fact, when it comes to doing it, many are HUGELY disappointed that it takes SO MUCH effort to save a floor that was $3/sf. Many of them simply decide to go get a new floor....it is easier, faster and less effort to do. And another aside, if you live in a condo that has NOISE or acoustic requirements, be aware that MOST vinyl products are NOT allowed over top of "underpad"...which makes vinyl the most difficult floor to install in condos that have acoustic requirements (apartment style condos).