Hi, Dave. I can see this is bugging you. ;-) The science, simplified: A higher degree of expression of the pigment anthocyanin (which expresses the color red or purple) in juvenile foliage is very common throughout the plant kingdom for a couple of reasons. First, even though the pigment absorbs light w/o being a part of the photosynthetic process, it plays a photoprotective role for new leaves that emerge under high light conditions - when they are in an ontogenetic stage that make them more sensitive/vulnerable to light over-saturation. If you were able to quantify it at home ..... the reduction in anthocyanin's expression would be seen to correspond with a decreased need for photoprotection, this, because photosynthetic maturation allows leaves to utilize higher light intensities. A major consideration (that occurs during photosynthetic maturation) is an increase in chlorophyll, the pigment often referred to as 'nature's sunscreen for plants'. In short the red coloration disappears as photopigment concentrations and leaf cuticle thickness increases, both of which would be occurring as mesophyll underlying the leaf cuticle differentiates into separate pallisade and spongy layers. Second (but probably not a consideration in F benjamina), the red coloration is also very often associated with an increase in phenolic compounds that serve as defense against insect predation or herbivory by making leaves unpalatable. It's also thought in many circles that the red coloration may make leaves more difficult for some insects and herbivores to see, and may signal insects that the affected leaves are a less nutritional food source than bright green foliage elsewhere, or that it would make a poor receptacle for ovaposition. Al

But a lot of people have asked about undertones for various grays and whites. The only way I know to answer such questions is to evaluate the color. If you know of another way to evaluate color undertones please tell me. Undertones are subjective not objective. Ask three people about a color's undertone and you'll very likely get three different answers. Which means it is impossible to objectively and consistently evaluate color from an undertones perspective. Many have been led to believe that they should know about undertones or are supposed to train their eye to see undertones. Yet no one has a tangible explanation for undertones, or where they come from, or how they are consistently applicable and useful from person to person, color to color, context to context. It's the Emperor's New Clothes. The one and only correct way to assess and compare color is by the psychophysical dimensions of color: hue, value, chroma. And LRV which is luminance. Every color, including whites and grays, belongs to a hue family. Hue family is derived directly from a color's spectral data. Think of spectral data like it's color DNA. You get spectral data by measuring a color with an instrument like a spectrophotometer or a colorimeter. The science of color measurement is called colorimetry. One of the things the instruments capture is wavelength. The dominant wavelength determines a color's hue family. That's where hue family comes from and you can measure the color with three different instruments and get the same hue family answer every time - colorimetry is objective, consistent, and repeatable. I show you have to find out the hue family for any paint color you want in this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n08N9Q2tv4A

Ron thanks for the electrical education. It makes sense now. My uppers for the long piece are 36" + 16" BUT the cabinets are flat at the bottom for lack of a better word. My valence is a separate piece at the front screwed into the cabinets underneath. Both pictures below show my setup but the backsplash, valence and microwave are in. The pieces hanging out was my old under cabinet lighting which you can see was only 18" relative to the 30" wide cabinet above. The other under cabinet light is hidden behind the wall in the 2nd picture.

I would use one like that closest to the photographer as its lens is recessed slightly which may result in less glare. If the switch visible at the bottom of the photo is attached to that light, then the light's color temperature is selectable. That's useful. (I prefer 2700K -- warmest -- or 3000K but it's your decision). I'd use 4" lights such as these Halo RL4DM. Large, 6" lights are old-fashioned and ugly. Most modern? Go trimless like this Commercial Electric 91582. @Patricia Colwell: "Make sure these are not integrated LEDs" They are and there's nothing wrong with them.